Khiva – Uzbekistan, a city out of One Thousand and One Nights

Gosia — Sun, 19 Jul 2026 16:10:35 +0000

To be honest, Khiva almost fell off my itinerary for Uzbekistan. Not because it didn’t seem interesting. Quite the opposite – when I was planning my trip to Uzbekistan, I knew it was one of those places I simply had to see. The problem was something completely different… logistics. Or, to be more precise: my first day in Uzbekistan was, to put it mildly, rather ambitious. 😉 After a night flight to Tashkent, by which point I felt that coffee was the only thing keeping my vital functions going, I still had a domestic flight to Urgench ahead of me. That was where I was picking up my hire car. Common sense was telling me to give Khiva a miss. A sleepless night, two flights, temperatures approaching 40°C and the prospect of another six hours behind the wheel (my ultimate destination was Kungrad) were all fairly convincing arguments. The problem is that I have one rather annoying trait: once I decide to do something, I have to see it through. Khiva wasn’t on my route, but it was too close, too unique and had been on my bucket list for far too long. Khiva – a city carved out of desert sand According to legend, the origins of Khiva date back to biblical times. The city was supposedly founded by Shem, Noah’s son, who, according to the story, wandered through the desert until one night he saw torches in a dream, pointing towards the site of a future settlement. While building the settlement, he supposedly discovered a source of water and dug a well called Kheyvak. The city’s name – Khiva is said to have originated from it. Legend is one thing, but one thing is certain: in the place where Khiva stands today, water has been the greatest treasure for thousands of years. Situated between the Karakum and Kyzylkum deserts, the settlement could exist thanks to access to water sources and its strategic location. For centuries, Khiva was one of the important stops along the Silk Road. Caravans crossing the vast expanses of Central Asia would stop here to rest, replenish their supplies and trade goods. The city was particularly famous for its silk and cotton textiles, hand-made carpets and craftsmanship – all of which remain an important part of local culture to this day. Khiva’s history, however, was just as fascinating as it was turbulent. Over the centuries, the city changed hands many times. It came under the influence of the Arabs, Seljuks, Mongols, Timurids, Persian rulers and, eventually, the Russians. Ichan Kala – a city behind the walls Without a doubt, Khiva’s greatest treasure is Ichan Kala, the old inner city hidden behind massive defensive walls. This is where, after entering through one of the four gates, you can feel as if time has stopped several centuries ago. It’s no coincidence that Khiva is often referred to as a museum city. Within a relatively small area, there is an incredible concentration of historic monuments: madrasahs, mosques, mausoleums, palaces and minarets. One of Khiva’s biggest advantages is that most of the sights are located very close to one another, and the Old Town is best explored without too much of a plan. All you have to do is turn into a side street, walk through an unassuming gateway and suddenly find yourself in the courtyard of an old madrasah or standing in front of intricately decorated doors that have witnessed the times of the old khans. The massive walls of Ichan Kala are one of the most distinctive sights in Uzbekistan. Their undulating shapes, made from sun-dried bricks, look almost unreal. Kalta Minor– Khiva’s unfinished symbol There is probably no more recognisable landmark in Khiva than Kalta Minor. Construction began in the 19th century under Muhammad Amin Khan, who had an ambitious plan to create the tallest minaret in Central Asia. According to legend, the tower was supposed to reach a height of as much as 70–80 metres and allow people to see Bukhara, hundreds of kilometres away. History, however, had other plans. After the death of its patron, construction was abandoned, leaving the minaret at around 29 metres high. Although it was never completed, Kalta Minor nevertheless became a symbol of the city. Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah – the largest in Khiva Right next to Kalta Minor stands the monumental Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah. Built in the mid-19th century, it was the largest Islamic school in the city. It could accommodate around 260 students, which was a huge number for the time. Kuhna Ark – the former residence of the khans This was a true fortress within a fortress – the residence of the khans, the centre of power and the place where the city’s political life was concentrated. One of the most important places in Kuhna Ark was the khan’s throne room. Today, you can only see a replica of the original throne. After the Russians captured Khiva, the original was taken away and is now part of the collections of the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. Right next to Kuhna Ark stands one of Khiva’s most impressive madrasahs – the Muhammad Rahim Khan Madrasah. It was built in the 19th century on the orders of Muhammad Rahim Khan II, one of the last rulers of the Khanate of Khiva. He was an unusual ruler because, alongside politics, he was also interested in culture and the arts. The madrasah was not only a place for religious education. Students also studied mathematics, astronomy, Arabic and literature. The complex could accommodate more than 70 students, who lived in small cells arranged around the courtyard. The Mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud – a sacred place in Khiva One of the most important places in the city is the Mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud. He was a remarkable figure – a poet, philosopher and teacher, but also a legendary wrestler who was famous for his immense strength in the 14th century. According to historical accounts, he was highly respected not only for his physical abilities, but above all for his wisdom and kindness. After his death, he became the patron saint of Khiva, and his tomb became a place of pilgrimage. Islam Khoja – the highest point in Khiva The Islam Khoja Minaret is the tallest building in the city. The tower stands at around 45 metres high and looks truly impressive. After exploring Khiva, I continued through the desert landscapes of Uzbekistan towards Kungrad. Along the way, I was planning to visit one of the country’s more unusual sites: Chilpik Kala, an ancient Zoroastrian “Tower of Silence”. To be honest, I was really looking forward to seeing this place. Chilpik Kala looks like something torn straight from another era – a mysterious stone structure standing on a hill above the Amu Darya, where, according to Zoroastrian beliefs, rituals associated with the burial of the dead were once carried out. I drove practically right up to the site. From the car, it looked incredible. The problem only arose when I realised that the path to the attraction led uphill. Under normal circumstances, this wouldn’t have been a big deal. But with temperatures climbing above 40°C, a sleepless night, a headache and another 150 km of driving ahead of me, I looked through the photos of the site, glanced once more at the climb… and surrendered. For the first time, I didn’t feel guilty about it. So I left Chilpik Kala for another time. And the road to Kungrad still had a few more surprises in store…

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Khiva – Uzbekistan, a city out of One Thousand and One Nights