Cyprus -

Cyprus – the most interesting attractions on the island

Gosia — Sun, 03 Dec 2023 11:51:11 +0000

I didn’t plan to travel to Cyprus last year. I did it on the spur of the moment. I saw cheap tickets for the beginning of November, when I have my birthday, and I thought to myself: why not leaving everything behind and celebrate it there? I had just 5 days to see the island so the best solution was to rent a car. It wasn’t the economical way because I didn’t have anybody to share the costs with, however, I rationalized this expense as a birthday gift. The second obvious solution to visit the whole island in such a short time was getting up at unsocial hours, this was more difficult to rationalize 😀 I rented a Kia Rio from Budget rental company, the total cost for 6 days, including full insurance, was about PLN 1000. I decided to take out full insurance because there’s left-hand traffic on Cyprus. I have never driven this way before and I didn’t know if I would be able to manage it. Eventually it turned out that in less than 5 days I traveled around 850 km. My driving impressions? Cyprus is a very nice place to drive, especially the southern “tourist” part. The road infrastructure is designed in such a way to prevent driving against the flow. The center of the island is wilder, a 4×4 car may be useful in many places, while the Kia Rio also managed ? I enjoyed driving around the center of the island the most, especially because of the narrow, winding roads and amazing views, interesting routes also led through traditional Cypriot villages. However, in the capital – Nicosia, road traffic was completely different. Driving was more dynamic, but I cannot say a bad word about the Cypriot drivers who, in my opinion, drive very well. The only problem on the road, especially in the south, can be tourists. Fortunately, the rental cars are equipped with red number plates, which allows you to anticipate possible complications. Aphrodite’s Beach I started exploring the island from the western part, namely the beach of Aphrodite. Avakas Gorge Gorge The place must-see is the Avakas Gorge, located in the western part of the island. It is an ideal place for a short trip, especially on a hot day. The white color of the limestone contrasts in an interesting way with the lush vegetation, and the various shapes of the rocks make an amazing impression. Wrecks The real highlight of southern Cyprus are the wrecks of two ships. The first, Edro III, is a popular destination, also because of its location. The rusty and damaged hull of the ship is an interesting background for the nearby rock caves and cliffs. Edro III, under the Sierra Leone flag, finished its service in 2011 during a cruise to the island of Rhodes. Due to bad weather, and more precisely, strong winds, the ship hit the rocks near Paphos. The wreck is located a few meters from the shore, but so far it has not been decided to demolish it because any work could affect the local ecosystem, which is under protection. Anyway, the demolition would deprive Cyprus of one of the most interesting attractions. A little further from the shore, near the Tombs of the Kings, you can see the wreck of the MV Demetrios II, its service under the Honduras flag, finished in 1998 during a cruise from Greece to Syria. An interesting fact is that the investigation into the accident revealed that the captain and the first officer had forged licenses. Paphos Paphos is a dream destination for relaxation. Wonderful views, a wide sandy beach and numerous pubs make this place perfect for sunbathing. However, that’s not all, the entire city is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The main archaeological site located in the vicinity of Paphos are the Royal Tombs – a complex of over 100 underground tombs in which the aristocracy was buried. From the underground perspective, Paphos can also be seen in the Agia Solomoni catacombs. The underground rooms were used by the first Christians as a place of prayer. I do not know what it looked like, but nowadays it looks like a devotional store. The entrance to the catacombs can be easily recognized by the characteristic tree covered with ribbons and other decorations, which are hung by the faithful in the intention of curing the disease. In the city, it is worth seeing the Church of Panayia Chrysopolitissa Basilica, once one of the largest churches on the island. The church can be admired from a distance as it is surrounded by the ruins of an old basilica. In the very center of the city there’s a huge archaeological complex where you can see the remains of the ancient city. You can see here, among others Roman villas, a lighthouse, mosaic floors, an odeon and a basilica. Aphrodite’s Island Less than 30 km from Paphos there’s an important tourist spot on the map of the island – the birthplace of Aphrodite. Supposedly, here, right next to the characteristic rock, the Greek goddess was born of foam. The place, I admit, makes an amazing impression just after sunrise, when there’s no crowd. Being in the area, it’s worth stopping at the nearby observation decks along the B6 road, amazing views guaranteed. Kap Aspro trail Kap Aspro is a picturesque path, less than 8 km long, leading from the village of Pissouri to the beach of the same name. The way leads through a high cliff, from where you can admire an amazing view of the bay and the turquoise colour of the water. A must for those who can’t lay too long on the beach ? Kourion Kourion is a special place, it delights not only with the scale of the ancient city but also with amazing views. You can see here: a rebuilt amphitheater, a house of gladiators, intricately made mosaics and in the background a fabulous cliff coast. However, the city’s location led to its fall. In 365, as a result of an earthquake, followed by a tsunami, most of its inhabitants lost their lives. Limassol Limassol didn’t captivate me, but it’s a perfect place for sunbathing and partying. Pubs, a long promenade and a pier are the main advantages of this city. Traditional villages and a parcel locker The real highlight of Cyprus are the small traditional villages of Lania, Lofou and Wuni located in the center of the island on the way towards the Troodos Mountains. Lania is an small village, practically not visited by tourists. Colourful houses, narrow streets and various decorations create a very homely atmosphere. However, in my opinion, mailboxes are a hit. The town is so small that it was easy organize for each house one large parcel locker, which is located in a central point of the village, right next to the church. The second town – Lofou, for sure I won’t forget because of the maze of narrow streets, until today I wonder if the road I was driving was intended for cars … it was quite narrow, but the car fitted ? The last town – Wuni, I visited to see the traditional Omodos Wine Press. Wuni, probably due to the convenient access, is a popular tourist village. There are many pubs and shops with souvenirs and local handicrafts, mainly stained glass and embroidered fabrics. Troodos Mountains The Troodos Mountains are the perfect place to admire the mountain views and hiking. There are many interesting routes and viewpoints here. The highest peak of the mountains is Mount Olympus, 1,952 meters (6,404 ft) above sea level. Stawrowouni Monastery Nevertheless, the Stawrowouni Monastery with a steep winding road has also a spectacular location. Its massive structure, located on the top of the mountain, reminded me of the Benedictine abbey – Sacra di San Michele Sant’Ambrogio di Torino, known from Umberto Eco’s book The Name of the Rose. The monastery is closed to women, while the Church of All Saints of Cyprus below is open to everyone. Salt lake and mosque There’s a huge salt lake in the outskirts of the popular tourist resort – Larnaca. It seems to reach to the horizon, and in addition, a mirage-like effect can be observed in some places. In some places there’s so much salt that the surface looks like if yt were covered with snow. Right next to the lake, there’s an important sacral building of the Muslim religion – Umm Haram Mosque or Hala Sultan Tekke. It’s said to be the fourth most important Muslim temple after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. This is where Prophet Muhammad’s aunt and companion, Umm Haram, died after she fell off the mule she was riding. Cape Greko Cape Greko is located on the far South-eastern part of Cyprus and mainly this location makes it so special. Apart from the amazing landscapes, underwater rock caves and the harsh landscape, this place is practically deserted. You can feel an amazing space all around, which is additionally emphasized by the waves hitting the rocky coast. I won’t even mention the turquoise colour of the water and the high limestone cliffs ? Rock Caves There are also phenomenal rock caves nearby, but here you should be prepared for a large number of tourists. It’s a popular snorkelling spot, and cruises route running from the nearby towns. Beaches Intensive sightseeing, it’s the best to finish, we know where ? For example Nissi beach near Cape Greko on the picture below.

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Nicosia – the divided capital, Girl off the Trail

Gosia — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 13:51:42 +0000

I’m in the suburbs of Nicosia, it’s 8.00 in the middle of the week. I chose the perfect time for a trip to the capital of Cyprus. Three-lane highway, traffic jam to the horizon. I won’t hide, I’m irritated, I wanted to come at dawn, to have more time for sightseeing, definitely the day is too short and the plan is quite tight. I’m covering the next meters at a dizzying speed of 5 km/h, at least it’s time to look around. There’s one thing that attracts my attention on the horizon, so more or less in the place where the globe curves and the damn cork ends, I see a mountain with a huge flag on it, which resembles the ones I saw in Turkey. Considering the political situation in Cyprus, it looks like one big provocation. I wonder what the drivers of the Republic of Cyprus must feel when they stand in traffic every day, with the flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in front of their eyes. Below is a photo taken near the Agios Dometios / Metehan crossing on the Turkish side. The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is actually a para-state, it hasn’t been recognized internationally, except of course Turkey. Nicosia is actually the only divided capital in the world. The Greek part – the Republic of Cyprus is separated from the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus by the so-called Green Line, controlled by the United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus(UNFICYP). Anyway, the issue of Cyprus is even more complicated, because the British are also here, in two so-called the Sovereign Base Areas of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland – Dhekelia and Akritori. The first is to the east of the popular tourist destination Larnaca, while the second is in the Limassol area. In total, they constitute only a small piece of the island where the UK has located military bases completely independent of Cyprus. From about the mid-sixteenth century, Cyprus was under Turkish rule, which lasted almost 300 years, until 1878, when, under an agreement with England, it became the possession of the British. Initially, Great Britain had only a military base in this territory, while paying tribute to the Turkish sultan. However, when Turkey undertook military actions on the side of the Triple Alliance in 1914, Great Britain declared war on it and announced the annexation of Cyprus. Eventually, in 1925, Cyprus officially became a British colony. However, the inhabitants of the island made constant attempts to join it to Greece, and there were also many terrorist attacks. Over the years, attempts have been made to resolve the Cyprus problem and to calm separatist sentiments without success. Eventually, in 1960, Cyprus regained its independence, but the problem of the coexistence of the separatist aspirations of the Greeks and Turks remained. Further efforts to unify the island were unsuccessful. In 1974, when the coup d’état in Greece took place, Turkey jumped at the opportunity and attacked Cyprus on the pretext of a peaceful operation aimed at restoring the constitutional order, the effect of which is the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus that exists to this day, now occupying more than 1/3 of the island. As a result of this operation, many people died and about 160,000 Greeks became refuges. Today, on the Greek side, near the Green Line, you can see numerous stickers and murals reminding about this event. Despite the existing tensions, it’s now possible to move between the Greek and Turkish parts. There are currently 5 crossing points in Cyprus, two of which are in Nicosia – Agios Dometios / Metehan and Ledra Street – for pedestrians only. However, it must be remembered that coming to Cyprus from the Turkish side is considered by the Greek part as illegal entry into the country, and an attempt to enter the Republic of Cyprus may end with entry refusal or a fine. Therefore, the safe option is to come to the Republic of Cyprus and hence to cross the buffer zone. Nicosia (in Greek – Lefkosia, in Turish – Lefkoşa) is certainly not a tourist place, only a small percentage of tourists decide to come here. Coming here allows you to get to know the island better, its political situation and the mood prevailing here. Nicosia is in fact a walled city with a no-man land behind it. While walking along the Green Line, you can see numerous UN watchtowers. Taking photos is forbidden and any movement of the camera triggers an immediate guards’ reaction. Fortunately, it is impossible to guard the entire area separated by a wall. Walking along the green line, you can see many places that show the tragedy of this city. Here and there, behind the barbed wire, you can see abandoned, devastated buildings, dead-end streets barricades and information that it’s the off limits zone. The Greek border part is practically depopulated, only some buildings are inhabited, most are workshops or warehouses. A large part of Greek Nicosia is quite ruined and in no way resembles the exclusive resorts in Larnaca or Paphos. Some streets, however, can surprise with colorful buildings. Among a few “tourist attractions” it’s worth seeing the Omerriye Mosque, Feneromeni Square and the National Struggle Museum, which presents the history of independence efforts in a rather drastic way. Turkish part looks completely different, it’s certainly more colorful and lively. Here you can really feel like you are in a Turkish bazaar and eat kebabs in local pubs. Turkish part of the old town is relatively small, but it’s worth wandering around here, even for comparison with the Greek part. In the central part there’s the Selimiye Mosque, located in the former Cathedral of Saint Sofia. It is also worth visiting Büyük Han – an old caravanserai, i.e. a kind of shelter for caravans, built in the 16th century. During the British occupation, there used to be a prison, but now there are various shops, galleries and a pub. A little further away is the Hyder Pasha Mosque. Looking at the architecture of this building, it is impossible not to get the impression that, like the Selimiye Mosque, it used to be a church. A place worth visiting is the Bandabuliya shopping center, where you can buy practically everything from food products to clothes and handicrafts. Going further east, you can see the border of the buffer zone with a characteristic guardhouse and no-entry signs. However, at this point, the most interesting are murals, one is particularly interesting which depicts a soldier with his arms raised, located on the building damaged by bullets. In general, walking along the Green Line to see the border zone from a slightly different perspective it’s a must here. More interestingly, the protection of the United Nations on the Turkish side is much less restrictive, I did not see any guard, and taking photos wasn’t a problem. I won’t hide that from my trip to Cyprus I came back a bit disappointed. My main reason for visiting the island was to see the abandoned Varosha tourist center and the UN buffer zone. Access to these places is very limited, which was even more tempting for me. The Varosha holiday resort was a popular holiday destination in the 70’s of the last century. After the Turkish invasion of Cyprus it became completely abandoned, and now it looks more like Pripyat than a popular holiday destination. Unfortunately, the closed passage in Ladra Street shortened my visit time on the Turkish side and made it impossible for me to visit this place. The second spot – the abandoned Nicosia International Airport – was even more attracting place for me. Closed in 1974 and has since been located within the UNFICYP-controlled buffer zone, off limits to civilians. However, this does not mean that seeing this place is impossible. Just before leaving, I completed a special entry permit form, available on the UNFICYP website. Unfortunately, after a few days, I received a reply that due to the restrictions related to the COVID pandemic, granting permits has been temporarily suspended. Visiting this place was supposed to be the icing on the Cypriot cake, so now I know that my adventure with island is not over yet?

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