Lebanon -

Lebanon – off the beaten path

Gosia — Sat, 28 Sep 2024 15:51:56 +0000

Lebanon is a country that not only delights with its history and culture, but also with its rich nature. Picturesquely located religious buildings, spectacular waterfalls, huge caves, and the ruins of ancient metropolises are just a small sample of what you can discover while traveling around this amazing country. So far, I’ve written about Lebanon from a geopolitical perspective, I’ve tried to show the realities of life and the problems it encounters. Leaving aside the uncertain political situation, Lebanon is one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever seen. Less than 30 kilometers from Beirut, in the town of Harissa, there’s one of the most important Christian sanctuaries in Lebanon – the sanctuary of Our Lady of Lebanon. This place is not only a pilgrimage destination, but also a tourist attraction attracting visitors from all over the world. The sanctuary is under the care of the Maronites. Maronites, who are Catholics, live mainly in Syria and Lebanon. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lebanon is located on the top of Mount Harissa, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area and the Mediterranean Sea. To reach the peak, you can take a gondola ride. It’s the location that makes this place unique. At the top there’s a huge statue of Mary, with her arms outstretched towards Beirut. Inside the statue you can visit a small chapel, and from the observation deck you can see an amazing view of the capital of Lebanon and the coast. The sanctuary was visited by Pope John Paul II during his pilgrimage to Lebanon in 1997. However, this is not the end of the huge religious statues. Near the town of Faraya, you can see a monument to the Maronite monk – Saint Sharbel. The statue is 24 meters high and is located high on the top of the mountain, offering an amazing view of the mountains and the Chabrouh Dam. By the way, I have doubts whether erecting a monstrous monument to a saint who was famous for his modesty and asceticism was a good idea… While visiting Lebanon, I also discovered one of the most charming religious places I have ever had the pleasure of seeing – the monastery of St. Elijah in Hadchit. This place is not only noteworthy for religious reasons, but also delights with spectacular views. Rising higher and higher along the quite steep serpentine, I couldn’t help but wonder whether my modest Nissan Micra would be able to cope with the road for 4WD cars. I must admit that this route was no less exciting than the view from the monastery. Located far from the hustle and bustle of civilization, surrounded by mountains, it’s an oasis of peace and gives you the opportunity to discover harmony with nature. Despite the amazing views, this place doesn’t seem to be popular. For me this was an advantage, I had it just for myself. The green valleys shrouded in fog and the mountain peaks were amazing. Being in such an environment allows you to break away from everyday life and enjoy this extraordinary atmosphere. Lebanon is an amazing country where you can also see the remains of ancient civilizations. Tire and Sidon, now known as Sour and Saida, are two cities that show rich history of the ancient Phoenicians. In Tire, you can travel back in time by exploring the ruins of the former Phoenician metropolis. However, for those who are less interested in ancient civilizations, a visit to Tire may be an excellent opportunity to observe the everyday life of the inhabitants. In Sidon, it’s worth visiting the atmospheric old town, where you can see traditional Muslim buildings. During Phoenician times, the city served as a main port and trade center. Both in Sidon and Tire, there was trade in luxury goods such as silver, gold, ivory and high-quality fabrics. Both cities were also famous for the production of the dye – purple. Sea snails native to Tyre were used for its production. The dye was called “royal”. Due to the high production costs, only kings could afford it. Apparently, it took as many as 100,000 snails to produce one kg of dye. Purple was such a valued material throughout the world that it gave rise to the name Phoenicians. The word Phoenicia comes from the Greek phoínios, meaning “Land of Purple”. However, the ruins in Baalbek made the greatest impression on me. It was my last trip in Lebanon. It seemed to be interesting from the very beginning. I set out at dawn, I wanted to be sure to see everything. I wondered what would happen to me along the way. I will not mention that during my trip, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs advised against traveling to these areas, due to the proximity to Syria (about 20 km from the border) and numerous refugee camps. I started on route no. 30, called the highway to Damascus. The highway looks like an ordinary road, but my impressions from it were unforgettable. Numerous trucks constantly pushed me into the opposite lane, posing a risk of head collision. I will add that I was traveling in Lebanon in a Nissan Micra 1.6… The only thing that saved me was acceleration 😉 Anyway, at least there was no need for coffee that morning. The next section of the road was pure pleasure, a narrow serpentine with a wonderful panorama of the mountains. When I left the mountains, I headed onto another highway, leading straight to Baalbek. However, it was not boring there either. Baalbek and the nearby areas remain under the control of Hezbollah, hence there’re numerous checkpoints on the road. As you can guess, I was stopped each time, but I won’t say anything bad about the control, I had really nice conversations 😀 Baalbek made a huge impression on me. I admit that its scale surprised me very much. The preserved ruins are a remnant from the times of the Roman Empire, when Baalbek was the main place of worship of Jupiter. The Temple of Jupiter is the biggest structure and is located in the central point. It’s said to be twice the size of the Parthenon on the Acropolis. The massive structure made of huge stone pillars gives an idea of ancient times. Interestingly, it remains a mystery to this day how such huge elements were transported. Another, better preserved building is the Temple of Bacchus – the god of wine and fertility. It was built on a similar scale as the Temple of Jupiter. The Temple of Venus is slightly smaller, decorated with symbols of the goddess – doves and shells. Byblos, one of the oldest cities in the world, is another important point on the map. From the 3rd century BC it was known as a center of trade. Papyrus was brought here from ancient Egypt, which is where the name of the city comes from. The Greek word “byblos” meant papyrus. Just above Byblos stands the Citadel – a castle built in the 12th century by the Crusaders. There’s an interesting view of the coast and the remains of Phoenician temples. It’s worth ending your trip to Byblos with a walk around the charming old town. There is no shortage of waterfalls in Lebanon. When driving from Batroun to Basharri, it’s worth taking a short trip to Kfarhelda Falls. In the town of Jazzine you can see an interesting waterfall of the same name. The waterfall is quite unusual because the water flows down the high slope on which the residents’ houses are located. Unfortunately, there was no trace of the waterfall during my visit in June, but the view of this place was still unforgettable. Baloue Balaa – this mysterious name hides the most spectacular place in Lebanon. It’s also known as Baatara Gorge. The gorge is famous for its amazing waterfall reaching 225 meters high. The waters of the waterfall fall into a cave called the Cave of the Three Bridges. The cave is formed by three naturally formed bridges, hanging over the abyss. The scale of the waterfall is amazing. Another huge waterfall can be seen at the Ouyoun El Samak restaurant, located about 20 km west of Tripoli. Lebanon also delights with its underground attractions. Less than 20 km from Beirut there’s the longest cave in the Middle East – Grotte de Jeita. The cave actually consists of two limestone caves with a total length of 9 km. Inside you can see numerous stalactites and stalagmites, formed in an interesting way. The trip to the cave below includes an additional attraction – a boat cruise. An interesting underground world can also be seen in the Zahlan Zahlan Grotto cave. The cave actually consists of three caves filled with stalagmites and stalactites. However, its location, among steep limestone cliffs, is also amazing. An interesting place is the Forest of the Cedars of God – a cedar reserve located near the city of Bashari. Cedars have been an integral part of Lebanon for centuries and are a symbol of the country. For this reason, the cedar was placed on the flag of this country. Unfortunately, mass deforestation has made these trees less and less common here. The Forest of God’s Cedars is a place where we can see the remnants of the former cedar forest. The oldest trees in the reserve are over 1,500 years old and make an amazing impression. While in the vicinity of the Cedars of God Forest, it is worth visiting La Jetée – a viewing point from which there is an amazing panorama of the area.

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Tripoli – Lebanese Kandahar

Gosia — Sun, 14 Apr 2024 14:46:29 +0000

Tripoli, often confused with the capital of Libya, is the second largest city in Lebanon. It was founded by the Phoenicians in the 4th century BC, as a port city and for a long time it was a centre of trade. Tripoli has a rich history. It was under the rule of Persians, Romans and Mamluks. In 1109 it was taken over by the Crusaders. A reminder of those times is the Citadel, also known as Saint-Gilles Castle – one of the city’s main attractions. There’s an interesting view of the city and the Abou Ali River. Due to its strategic location, the citadel is currently used by the Lebanese Army as a military base. You can see armored vehicles under its walls. In the 16th century, the Crusaders were forced out by the Ottoman Empire, which ruled here until World War I. Then the city was taken over by British troops. In 1920, it came under French rule, which lasted until 1946. Tripoli was then annexed to North Lebanon. On May 31, 1976, the Syrian army launched an invasion of Lebanon, beginning an occupation that lasted until 2005. Tripoli is located just 30 km from the Syrian border and has historical ties to Syria. For decades, the city has been a symbol of division in Lebanon between those who supported Syrian President Bashar al-Assad and his opponents. Terrorist attacks and fighting between Sunnis and Alawites were a daily occurrence at that time. Additionally, as a result of the outbreak of the civil war in Syria, it’s estimated that approximately 70,000 refugees came the city. The population of Tripoli increased by almost 20%, which caused a housing crisis and led to high unemployment. The last major riots took place only 10 years ago, in 2013 and 2014. Traces of military operations remain to this day on the facades of buildings. It cannot be denied that the city’s former glory days is a thing of the past. Currently, Tripoli is one of the most marginalized cities in Lebanon. It seems to have been completely forgotten by the Lebanese government. Just a short walk around the centre is enough to see how neglected it is. Dirty streets and dilapidated buildings are a common sight. According to a 2015 UN report, more than 50% of the city’s population lives below the poverty line. However, despite this, Tripoli made a great impression on me. It’s the complete opposite of liberal, modern Beirut, and therefore more authentic. Surprisingly, both cities are only 80 km away from each other. When entering Tripoli, I knew I was in the right place, except for the long traffic jam. However, on the other hand, I had some time to observe the inhabitants. I realized why Tripoli was nicknamed the Lebanese Kandahar. At first glance, it’s clear that the city is inhabited by orthodox Muslims. The city is known as a bastion of Islamic conservatism. In the maze of narrow streets I could see the everyday life of the inhabitants. It was loud and bustling, exactly what I expected! 🙂 It looked as if the whole city was doing shopping. You can see stalls at every step. At first glance, everything seems quite chaotic, but there’s logic in this apparent mess. The stalls are divided thematically. There’re as many as nine souks – traditional bazaars in Tripoli, including: gold one (called Souk el Sayagheen), Attareen perfumes, spices, Khayateen textiles, but also Nahasseen with copper products. There’s also a soap bazaar – Saboon Khan, where you can buy traditional soap. Tripoli is famous for its soap production, which has been made here for centuries and is associated with the tradition of baths – hammams. The main raw material for its production is olive oil, to which honey, oils, rose water, jasmine and herbs are also added. While walking around the Old Town, I didn’t meet any tourists. Even though I stood out from the crowd, I had no problems. People reacted friendly to the photos and were curious why I decided to visit Tripoli alone. The city has a lot to offer and influx of tourists could improve its economic situation. However, the conflict in Syria and the uncertain geopolitical and economic situation in Lebanon postpone such a prospect. If you’re interested in Lebanon, find out more here.

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Hezbollah’s Disneyland – where “the land speaks to the heaven”…

Gosia — Sat, 21 Oct 2023 14:01:27 +0000

Hezbollah’s Disneyland – the Tourist Landmark of the Resistance, created by Hezbollah, is located right next to the village of Mleeta in southern Lebanon, about 50 km from the border with Palestine. The museum was opened on May 25th 2010, on the 10th anniversary of Israel’s withdrawal from southern Lebanon. The road to Hezbollah’s Disneyland, as this place is commonly called, leads through picturesque mountainous areas. Along the way, you pass numerous checkpoints that clearly indicate who manages the territory of southern Lebanon. By no means is it a government with the Lebanese Army… Hezbollah, or the Party of God, was founded during the Lebanese civil war. The beginnings of its formation began earlier and were related to the dissatisfaction of the Shiite part of the Lebanese society in connection with the division of power in this country. Officially, Hezbollah was created in 1982 in connection with Israel’s invasion of Lebanon. Israel entered Lebanon in 1978 and invaded Lebanon in 1982, occupying a large part of its territory, including Beirut. Created here the so-called security belt – a military zone that covered 650 km². A large share in the creation of Hezbollah is attributed to Iran. The Party of God quickly gained fame as a radical organization, carrying out terrorist attacks also outside Lebanon. After the withdrawal of Israel, Hezbollah focused more on political and social activities. It also coincided with Israel’s assassination of radical Hezbollah leader Abbas al-Musawi in 1992. The more liberal Hassan Nasrallah became the new leader. Since then, Hezbollah began to participate actively in public life. However, over time it became something like a state within a state. In fact, it can be said that it controls and administers the territory of southern Lebanon. In the Western media, Hezbollah is mainly associated with terrorist activities, but few people know that in southern Lebanon this organization enjoys great respect and recognition. It has its own media, hospitals and finances education. It provides aid to the poorest, organizes scholarship programs for Shia students and conducts minefield clearance – remnants of the conflict with Israel. Not to mention that Hezbollah also forms a political party with a presence in the Lebanese parliament. However, this doesn’t mean that it has completely stopped military activity. Israel’s withdrawal deprived the organization of an argument for further military action. However, in order to justify having armed militias and attacking Israel, the Party of God claims the right to so-called Farm Chebaa located in the territory of Israel. Along the so-called Blue Line – a demilitarized zone created by UN troops – UNIFIL, Hezbollah creates a system of observation points. They are usually located right next to UN checkpoints, which prevents Israel from firing at them. However, this location allows Hezbollah regular rocket attacks on Israel. Moreover, weak Lebanese state structures have no opportunities to limit Hezbollah’s activities and control the territory taken by this organization. The place I came to, The Tourist Landmark of the Resistance, was the center of Hezbollah’s sabotage operations against Israel in the years 1985-2000. After paying the entrance fee, which cost around $3, I was greeted by a guide who took me straight to the cinema hall. The 12-minute film, maintained in a pathetic tone, depicts Hezbollah’s heroic struggle against the occupier. The film is complemented by statements by the leader of Hezbollah – Hassan Nasrallah, emphasizing the heroism and dedication of the fighters in the battle against the Zionist invader. The next point of the visit is the exhibition presenting weapons and equipment seized from Israel or, following the guide’s words, abandoned by the Israeli army during the hasty evacuation of the troops. There are posters of Israeli leaders: Shimon Peres and Ariel Sharon, along with fragments of their speeches, expressing surprise in the face of defeat. The exhibition presents also cluster bombs used by Israel. Cluster bombs are a type of munitions containing from a few to several hundred smaller submunitions that are dispersed during the explosion. Many of these small submunitions do not explode immediately upon impact, but become land mines, posing a major threat to civilians. During the second attack on Lebanon in 2006, it’s estimated that Israel used more than 4 million US-made bombs of this type. To imagine the scale of this project, it’s worth adding that the area of Lebanon is about 30 times smaller than Poland. The use of these bombs by Israel has been condemned by human rights organizations. On 30 May 2008, the Convention on Cluster Munitions (CCM) was signed in Dublin. Israel did not become its signatory, neither did Poland, the USA, Russia or China. The Hezbollah guide stressed that although many years had passed since the Israeli attack on Lebanon, Israel had not yet provided maps with the location of the areas where cluster munitions had been used. These bombs still pose a great threat to the local population. The guide emphasized the defensive role of Hezbollah in the fight against Israel, which in his opinion was limited only to repelling the attack. He also pointed the sole merit of Hezbollah in driving Israel out of Lebanese territory. Indeed, Israel’s withdrawal was particularly surprising given the sophistication of the Israeli army and the effectiveness of its intelligence. However, Hezbollah is one of the most secretive organizations. It is based mainly on a clan structure, its members are bound by family and religious ties. For this reason, it is so difficult to compromise it. It’s also difficult to fight with it because it has no war bases or specific types of troops. Its military apparatus is represented by strategically located cells, which allows keep them in secrecy. During the conversation with the guide, I couldn’t help raising the issue of Hezbollah’s perception as a terrorist organization. The European Union and Middle Eastern countries such as Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, consider the military wing of Hezbollah a terrorist organization, not to mention the US, which refers to the entire Party of God. According to the guide, if not for the martyrdom of many people, Israel would never have withdrawn from Lebanon. He stated that this was the last option towards independence and emphasizing that Hezbollah is not a terrorist organization. According to him, it consists of many educated people helping the country and involved in its reconstruction. After seeing the exhibition, we went to the main point of the museum, the so-called “Abyss” “The Abyss” is an artistic presentation of the defeat of the Israeli army. It looks like a graveyard of military equipment. Particularly meaningful is the sight of the Merkava tank with the barrel symbolically tied in a knot. On the other side, you can see a tank covered with a cobweb-shaped net. This art installation is a reference to Hassan Nasrallah’s speech after Israel’s withdrawal, in which he described Israel as “more fragile than the spider web”. In the nearby forest there’s an exhibition presenting the guerrilla warfare of Hezbollah. Here you can see: Katyusha missile launchers, US TOW anti-tank missiles acquired by Hezbollah in exchange for the release of American hostages, this “deal” was later revealed as Iran-Contra affair. Another interesting thing is an artificial boulder used to hide bomb-traps. There’s also a bunker used during the 2006 war as a Hezbollah command center and shelter for members of this organization. It had running water and electricity. Inside there was a kitchen, power generators, sleeping quarters. The last point of the tour is the hill, which offers a view of the museum and the surrounding area. The hill is to symbolize the martyrdom of the fighters and the final victory of Hezbollah over the occupier. This is where the Land speaks to Heavens. Regardless of political views, Hezbollah’s Disneyland is an interesting point on the map of Lebanon. Particularly interesting is the opportunity to see the Lebanon-Israel conflict from a completely different perspective than the one presented in the media. I think that the opportunity to talk to representatives of Hezbollah and see their role in southern Lebanon allows us to understand the significant role of this group not only in the military, but also in the socio-political context. It is not my intention in this post to propagate any ideas related to the activities of Hezbollah or to advocate for any side. I wanted to present a broader context of the functioning of this organization and the reasons why it gained great social support in Lebanon. On the other hand, however, Hezbollah’s activities are largely harmful to Lebanon, as this organization is mainly financed by Iran. Hence, Hezbollah is a kind of tool in the implementation of Iranian policy. Unfortunately, this puts Lebanon in the position of a pawn in the game of the great powers: Iran and Saudi Arabia, in the shadow of which, stand the USA, Russia, China and Turkey. An open conflict seems to be impossible, but maintaining the current state of affairs in Lebanon is a kind of test of strength and seems to be beneficial to all parties, guaranteeing a kind of balance. Unfortunately, all this is at the expense of Lebanese society. Interested in Lebanon? Find out more here.

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Lebanese cuisine

Gosia — Sun, 08 Oct 2023 18:42:10 +0000

Lebanese cuisine was one of the main reasons why I went to Lebanon. Lebanon has always been a culturally diverse country, and influences from Arab, French and Mediterranean cuisines are evident in everyday dishes.The secret of Lebanese cuisine is its simplicity, flavor and variety. I had the opportunity to try many Lebanese dishes in Poland, but nowhere did they taste as good as in Lebanon. The basis of the meal are mezze, various appetizers like: pita bread, hummus, grilled eggplant dips or olive oil with herbs. They can also be served for breakfast. Speaking of breakfast, it’s the meal that I remember best from Lebanon. And when I think about those prepared in the wonderful Mresty Guest House, it brings tears to my eyes. The secret to a great Lebanese breakfast at Mresty Guest House were local ingredients. It now seems unbelievable that all the products in the photo below were prepared on site. Homemade cheese, tomatoes, olives and bread had a unique taste and aroma, which can’t be find in supermarket food. Pita i Manaquish Pita is the staple of the Lebanese diet. It often goes in pair with dips such as baba ganoush, hummus or za’atar or as a sandwich with shawarma or falafel. It’s baked at a high temperature reaching almost 450-475°F (232-246 ° C). The water contained in the dough evaporates, which causes the cake to swell. As a result, even after cooling, the top layer and the bottom remain separate. Manaqish, on the other hand, is nothing more than pita with various additional ingredients, such as: za’atar, tomatoes, meat or cheese. Makodus Makodus is a very interesting item in the Lebanese menu. It’s an eggplant cured in olive oil, stuffed with walnuts, paprika, chilli and garlic. It has a characteristic taste that is sour and spicy at the same time. For its preparation, young, small eggplants are used, which appear in the Middle East around June. Larger eggplants are not suitable for Makodus as too many seeds give it a bitter taste. Eggplants marinated in olive oil can be stored in a jar for up to a year. Makodus is most often eaten as part of a mezze with pita bread. It is also a popular side dish to breakfast. Below in the photo, homemade Makodus, prepared at Mresty Guest House. Za’atar Za’atar is the thing that will probably remind me of Lebanon the most. It’s a mix of spices with roasted sesame, sumac with the addition of olive oil. This delicious aromatic dip is served with pita bread. Hummus Hummus is an integral part of Middle Eastern cuisine. It is a dip prepared with boiled chickpeas, tahini sesame paste, garlic and lemon juice. It can be eaten for breakfast, as a mezze or as a side dish for dinner. Baba Ganoush This is another type of dip. It consists of baked eggplant, mixed with tahini paste, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and various spices. It can be served as a mezze with pita or as a side dish. A spicier version of Baba Ganoush is Moutabal, served with pomegranate. Makanek Makanek is a type of small sausages made of beef or mutton, with various spices. Spices such as cinnamon, cloves or ginger give them a characteristic, unique taste. What’s more, they can be cooked in wine and then served with pomegranates and pine nuts. Tablieh Tablieh is another interesting Lebanese dish. It’s grilled minced meat baked in bread. You can try it at the Tabliyit Massaad restaurant in Beirut. It’s served with pickled cucumbers and Labneh – cheese in the form of a creamy dip. Kafta Kafta is a dish known from many Balkan and Middle Eastern countries. It is grilled minced meat in the form of meatballs with onion and oriental spices. Tabbouleh Tabbouleh is almost a symbol of Lebanese cuisine. It’s a simple salad that consists of parsley, cucumber, tomatoes, onions, bulgur and mint, with olive oil and lemon juice. It owes its unique flavor to mint, which is also a popular ingredient in other Lebanese salads. Fattoush Fattoush is the next item on the list, although in my opinion it could take the podium. It’s also called country/peasant salad. Allegedly, fattoush originated in northern Lebanon. Local farmers fried leftover pita bread and mixed it with seasonal vegetables. Currently, apart from pita, a popular salad ingredients are tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, onions, lettuce and mint leaves. However, the secret of this salad is sumac, which gives it a characteristic, sour aftertaste. Hindbeh It is an interesting, simple and very tasty dish prepared from dandelion leaves, with lemon, garlic and caramelized onion. Warak Enab Warak Enab in translation from Arabic means grape leaves. The more popular name for this dish, which exists in Turkey, Armenia or Greece, is dolma. Warak Enab is made of grape leaves and stuffing which consists of rice and minced meat. Kibbeh Kibbeh is the national dish of Lebanon. It consists of minced meat (beef or mutton), onions, pine nuts and durum wheat shaped into a rugby/football ball and deep fried. The name kibbeh comes from the Arabic word kubbah meaning ball. Kaeb el ghazal Kaeb el ghazal in translation means gazelle horns, it is a traditional crescent-shaped shortbread cookie. I’ve never had a dinner dish with the addition of any cookies before, so when I saw the item with the same name in the Baytna restaurant in Tripoli, I decided to take a chance. Unfortunately, I am not able to accurately determine its composition, because the waiter did not speak any language I know. However, based on my own observation and taste, I can say that apart from cookies, it consisted of kofte in sauce with the addition of tahini paste, pine nuts and pistachios and sprinkled with cinnamon. The whole thing may look a bit unusual, but I assure you that it was a very tasty experiment. Baklava Middle Eastern cuisine is mainly associated with baklava, a cake which consists of thin layers of shortcrust pastry with the addition of honey and nuts. In Lebanon, you can try different types of baklava, in various shapes (pictured on the left). Crunchy and sweet baklava is something that I still remember from my trip to Lebanon. Namoura This is a popular cookie that can be recognized by its characteristic rectangular shape with an almond in the middle. It tastes like a sponge cake. Haytaliyeh It is a milky solid pudding that is said to have originated in Tripoli, Lebanon. It is served cold with orange blossom water and rose water. Maamoul Maamoul are shortbread butter cookies stuffed with date paste, figs or nuts. Traditionally, they have the shape of balls, but they can also be found in the form of rectangles. What I presented in this post is only a small part of what Lebanese cuisine has to offer. So I will definitely have to go back there.

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Urbex – Lebanon, Girl off the trail…

Gosia — Fri, 11 Aug 2023 18:02:15 +0000

Urbex (urban exploration) is a way of exploring places that are abandoned and often inaccessible. I must admit that for some time this way of sightseeing has dominated my travels. Why urbex? I could find many reasons, but what excites me the most is discovering the history of inaccessible places piece by piece and the adrenaline rush associated with it. Abandoned places are unique and there’s an exceptional beauty in their slow decay. What’s more, the time causes their constant change, which makes each visit a different experience. These are the reasons why I decided to share my discoveries with you. I start the series with Lebanon – my last trip. Lebanon is a unique country for me, while the urbex there has an additional dimension. Abandoned buildings, religious and entertainment facilities show the turbulent history of Lebanon, as well as reflect its current dramatic economic situation. The largest number of such places, mainly due to urban development, can be found in Beirut. The Egg The most characteristic abandoned building in Beirut is the so-called the Egg, located in the very center of the city, next to the Martyrs’ Square and the Mohammed Amin Mosque. The Egg was to be part of a larger shopping complex. Its construction began in 1965, but was not completed due to the outbreak of the Civil War. During the Civil War, the building stood on the border of the eastern Muslim and western Christian parts. Numerous bullet marks, which can be seen nowadays are the remnants of the bloody fights. For many years, the Egg remained unused, until October 2019, when a series of protests broke out in Lebanon, sparked by general public discontent related to the ubiquitous corruption in the government and the progressing economic crisis. At that time, the cinema building was used to organize rallies and lectures. Le Grand Teatre Near the Egg there’s another symbol of heavy fighting during the Civil War – the Grand Theater. It was opened in 1929 and hosted numerous performances and film productions on its stage over the years. From 1960, it served only as a cinema and later during the Lebanese Civil War, it was used as a hospital. Unfortunately, being right on the border of the demarcation line, it was significantly damaged during the fighting. For that reason, it was abandoned before the end of the Civil War. It remains undeveloped to this day. Due to the fence, this place is currently not open to the public. Saint George Hotel It was built in 1920. It’s a symbol of Lebanon’s golden times. The hotel gained popularity due to its prime location in the center of Beirut, right on the Mediterranean coast, and its luxurious design. In the 70s, it was visited by such stars as Brigitte Bardot, Marlon Brando and Elizabeth Taylor. Among its guests were also heads of state and spies from both sides of the Cold War. Unfortunately, during the Lebanese Civil War, it shared the fate of many other buildings in the area. It was closed at its beginning, i.e. in 1975. In the first years of the war, it took part in the so-called The Battle of Hotels, in which opposition forces fought to gain control over strategically located facilities. Then it was occupied by the Syrian army until 1990. The planned reconstruction of the hotel after the war didn’t materialize due to a court dispute between the owner of the hotel and the public-private organization Solidere, planning to take over real estate in Beirut, and then led by Prime Minister Rafic Hariri. Ironically, in 2005, Hariri was murdered in a terrorist attack outside the Saint George Hotel. A bomb detonated just before its entrance caused additional damage to the façade. To this day, the hotel stands desolated, only the swimming pool and the restaurant have been made available for public use. Bechara El Khoury Palace While being in the Zokak el-Blat district, it is worth visiting the Bechara El Khoury Palace. It was built around 1870 when Lebanon was within the borders of the Ottoman Empire. Despite the passage of time, the palace still makes an amazing impression. Decorations on the ceilings, soaring vaults and columns give an image of its past glory. The remains of the blue ceiling and the blue façade contrasting with the lush greenery also look interesting. The progressing degradation of this place gives it a unique character, unfortunately, you can see with the naked eye that its days are numbered. Despite its poor technical condition, the palace is not completely abandoned. There’s a carpentry workshop on the ground floor. To get to the upper floor, you just need to smile nicely to its owner. This is why I love Lebanon. While in Europe the access to such a place would be subject to a number of regulations of the monument conservator, occupational health and safety or construction inspection, while in Lebanon everything is possible. No one sees a problem with the functioning of a workshop in a ruined building, not to mention the possibility of visiting it. Pigeons’ Rocks – Raouche The last place in Beirut I visited by accident, being in the area of Pigeon Rocks. Watching the amazing sunset, I saw an abandoned restaurant on the other side. Although the restaurant itself is not an interesting place to explore, itturned out to be an excellent vantage point on the Pigeons’ Rocks. Safar An interesting building, although currently unavailable to the public, is the Safar Grand Hotel in Safar. It was built in 1892. Inside, there was the first casino in Lebanon, a cinema, a nightclub and a bar. The hotel hosted the richest guests from the Arab world. There’s also an abandoned railway station nearby, built at the same time. Unfortunately, the building is in a rather dilapidated condition. Synagogue in Bhamodoun An amazing and unique religious building in Lebanon is the abandoned synagogue in the city of Bhamdoun. It was built in 1922 and was one of the four large synagogues in Lebanon. It is also called the Last Temple belonging to the Jewish community. It was built for the needs of Jews who, before the outbreak of the Civil War, spent holidays there. The synagogue was closed in 1976 when the Syrian army entered Lebanon and reached the borders of Bhamdoun. Near the Synagogue, you can see Villa Donna Maria, built in 1909. Unfortunately, during my visit, it turned out that the building is under reconstruction. Hotel Al Kassouf An interesting abandoned hotel can also be seen in the mountain town of Dhour El Choueir, located about 30 km west of Beirut. The imposing building, built in 1930, once hosted the most distinguished guests, including the Lebanese president. In 1935, the first beauty contest “Miss Lebanon” was held here. Unfortunately, it was badly damaged during the Civil War. Aquarium in Batorun Driving north from Beirut, in the town of Batorun, there’s an abandoned building of an unfinished aquarium. Construction began in 1968, but was stopped after a few years. I don’t think I need to add what event prevented further work… Although access to the building is prohibited, it does not mean that it’s not possible to get into? The lack of any fence allows free entry. The walls of the building are covered with various murals. A circular staircase leads to the terrace, which offers an interesting view of the city and the beach. From the top of the aquarium, you can also see the unfinished planetarium building. The planetarium is currently located next to a private property, therefore its exploration is not possible. Right next to the aquarium, there’s a complex of an abandoned educational center with a hotel section. The building is in excellent condition and doesn’t look like completely abandoned. However, I checked all the floors and I can assure you that there are no signs of any life there ? I’m convinced that Lebanon is full of amazing abandoned places that have not yet been discovered. Urbex in this country allows you to discover its difficult history, and abandoned buildings are often a symbol of the dramatic experiences of the Lebanese people. These places are something tangible and allow you to see history with your own eyes, in my opinion they speak better to the imagination than the best museums. Do you like this post? Find out more here. 🙂

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Lebanon – life in the country on the edge…

Gosia — Sun, 30 Jul 2023 11:09:15 +0000

Lebanon is currently struggling with economic crisis as well as political isolation. It’s mainly associated with Hezbollah and the explosion of ammonium nitrate in the port of Beirut. However, the country used to be very prosperous economically. It attracted many foreign investors as well as tourists. It was called the Switzerland of the Middle East, while Beirut, the Paris of the Middle East, due to its characteristic buildings and a number of cultural events. What has happened that Lebanon is now in such a dramatic situation? This question has been bothering me for a long time. The media portray Lebanon as a dangerous country, which contributes to its progressive isolation. I don’t trust what is commonly presented to us, so I decided to check it myself. I was particularly interested in how everyday life in this country looks like, to see it from the perspective of ordinary people. Based on my own observations and experiences, I can say that nowhere have I experienced such openness and cordiality as in Lebanon. I was also surprised by the honesty of the Lebanese people, not once did I hear the famous “dear my friend I have a special price for you”. From the point of view of ordinary people in Lebanon, the common image of the country is very damaging. Lebanese people are aware of how Lebanon is perceived and they didn’t hide their surprise that I decided to travel solo around their country. However, that was my intention, to show it in a different light, to break the negative image that is presented. I don’t want to get into politics in this post, but I won’t be able to skip some things completely. My intention is to show how Lebanon, from a culturally open country that helps refugees, has become a playing field for various external political as well as financial interests. Lebanon has always been a country where Christians and Muslims lived together. Therefore, when it gained independence in 1943 (from the protectorate of France), it was decided to create a special political system guaranteeing equal participation in the exercise of power. It was based on the 1932 census, according to which Lebanon’s population was 55% Christian and 45% Muslim. However, as a result of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, demographic changes took place. It is also worth pointing out that Lebanon has always been a country open to refugees. Many Polish civilians who fled the Soviet Union with the Anders Army found shelter here. Meanwhile, the Israeli-Palestinian conflict caused a massive influx of refugees from Palestine, many of whom belonged to the Palestine Liberation Organization. Unfortunately, the PLO over time developed in the territory of southern Lebanon to such an extent that it created a kind of “state within a state”. Attacks organized by the PLO on Israel caused Lebanon to become a party to the conflict. There were also claims for a revision of the existing political system due to the increased participation of the Muslim population. Increasing social conflicts eventually led to a civil war that lasted from 1975 to 1990. Syria also joined the conflict, and then Israel, which in 1982 occupied part of Lebanon including Beirut. A year later, PLO troops left Lebanon, while Israel withdrew to the border territory in 1985. The civil war led to the complete destruction of the country. Its effects can be seen to this day. At first glance, Beirut now looks like a modern city, reminiscent of Western metropolises full of skyscrapers. However, in its very centre you can see traces of battles. Despite the end of the Civil War, the situation in Lebanon remains very tense. During my stay in this country, I talked to both Maronites (a fraction of Christianity) and Muslims. I also visited territories belonging to Hezbollah. In Mleeta, I had the opportunity to get to know the point of view of representatives of this organization. Everyone agreed on one thing, all of them want peace in Lebanon, but each of them presented a different view on the organization of the country… The currency of corruption and exploitation After the end of the Civil War, Lebanon decided to link the pound with the US dollar. At that time, the fixed rate of the pound was assumed at 1.507 per $1. This was beneficial for trade and foreign investment and ensured stability for years. The Lebanese economy was characterized by minimal government interference and low taxes. In order to guarantee a fixed exchange rate of the pound, banks had to have large reserves of dollars. The situation changed completely after 2011, when the civil war broke out in Syria. Lebanon then had to face a massive influx of Syrian refugees. The unstable situation in the region enabled the development of Hezbollah, which additionally discouraged foreign investors. In order to maintain a stable pound exchange rate, a special program was developed to encourage Lebanese to deposit dollars in banks. Currency accounts had high interest rates, guaranteed a profit of 15-20 percent per year. Thus, a Ponzi scheme was created. Initial depositors were repaid with new depositors’ money. People didn’t realize the consequences of this program until 2019. While the official exchange rate of the pound remained at the previously fixed rate, the currency devalued significantly in everyday transactions, and inflation exceeded 100 percent. Many people were unable to withdraw their money from the bank. The situation was further aggravated by the Covid pandemic, which brought tourism to a halt. The final nail in the coffin was the dramatic explosion of ammonium nitrate in the port of Beirut in August 2020. The Lebanese government has taken a number of measures to fill the budget hole, including the idea of taxing calls on WhatsApp came up. This has caused numerous social protests, as many Lebanese use it to contact loved ones abroad. Due to the collapse of the banking sector in 2019, three different ponud rates were set (data from 2023): – so-called “Sayrafa” – exchange rate set by the Lebanese Central Bank at 85,500 per $1. It is used in international transactions, – black market rate of 143,000 for $1, – official rate set at 15,000 for $1. This is the exchange rate for the Lollar – Lebanese dollar. This deposit is denominated in US dollars. Lollar is not a standard paper currency. It is more of information about outstanding deposit in US Dollars that can only be withdrawn in Lebanese pound. As you can see, the official exchange rate and the black market are worlds apart. A system constructed in this way causes social inequality, banks use a preferential official exchange rate, which significantly differs from the real value of the currency. In this way, the burden of the state with the effects of the crisis and the losses of the financial sector was transferred to the citizens. Moreover, in addition to the usurious rate, there are also limits on the maximum amount of withdrawal from the account. In recent years, the media has presented more and more reports of armed bank robberies. However, this image is very distorted and harmful to the Lebanese people. Of course, bank robbery is a crime, but you also need to consider the circumstances. Bank robberies are an act of desperation for those Lebanese who have deposited their life savings in banks. The motive for many attacks was often the lack of access to savings, which were intended, for example, for surgeries of relatives. Corruption According to Transparency International’s 2022 Corruption Risk Index, Lebanon scores 24 out of 100 (with 100 being the best score), making it 154th out of 180 countries. Corruption is ubiquitous, which is confirmed in everyday conversations by the Lebanese themselves, who have virtually no trust in state institutions. Emigration Shortly after the outbreak of the conflict in Syria, Lebanon became the country with the largest number of refugees. According to UN data from 2022, there are about 1.5 million Syrian refugees in Lebanon, while the Lebanese population is only 5.5 million. The massive influx of Syrians caused numerous social and economic problems. First of all, unemployment has increased significantly in recent years. The influx of cheap labour from Syria has lowered minimum wages. The population of Lebanon is approximately 5.5 million, while it is estimated that between 8 and 14 million Lebanese live outside the country. Particularly high dissatisfaction can be seen among young Lebanese. The highest rate of unemployment, as well as the minimum wage for work, resulted in mass emigration of young people. Checkpoints Currently, when driving around Lebanon, you can see numerous checkpoints. The largest are located in the cities and look like fortified bastions. From the outside, they are secured with concrete slabs and barbed wire. In addition, the entrance gates are guarded by guards and tanks. So far, I have visited many places characterized by an unstable political situation, such as Nagorno-Karabakh or the Transnistrian Republic of Moldova, but I must admit that nowhere have I seen barricades of such a scale as in Lebanon. The biggest surprise for me was the great fortification in the very centre of Beirut. It can be seen in the area of Place de l’Étoile, which is adjacent to the Martyrs’ Square and the most important tourist attractions of the city, such as the Mohammed Amin Mosque or the ruins of the Roman baths. Within this enclosed area is the building of the National Assembly of Lebanon (i.e. Parliament) as well as the Ministry of Finance, further comment seems unnecessary… Life in Lebanon The low exchange rate of the pound and economic problems resulted in a drastic impoverishment of the society. The average salary in Lebanon is around $550 per month. The rising cost of living is a big problem for many people. Example costs are as follows: a litre of gasoline – about $1, a lunch at a mid-range restaurant is about $15, a loaf of bread – $0.90, a kilo of chicken – $7, a bottle of wine in a store is about $6. The financial collapse of the state makes it impossible to maintain the infrastructure. The authorities fail to meet the basic needs of citizens. Lebanon is struggling with the continuity of electricity supplies. This is especially evident in Beirut. During the day there are power outages, while at night the city is plunged into darkness. Lebanon has a huge tourist potential. Historical places, amazing landscapes, excellent cuisine and open-minded people make this country unique. Unfortunately, clientelism, favouritism, inept politics, both domestic and international, combined with the interference of foreign interests, have brought this country to the brink of collapse. However, in the shadow of all these political games are ordinary people affected by tragedy. It is worth visiting this country for them. Do you like this post? Find out more here.

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Beirut – a city like a phoenix from the ashes

Gosia — Sat, 22 Jul 2023 16:28:34 +0000

Beirut was on my mind for a very long time. I have been interested in the geopolitics of the Middle East for years, so a visit to Lebanon was a natural consequence of that. However, there was another reason that may seem quite strange. I can’t explain it, but every time I hear the names of certain cities, I get chills. Until recently, I thought this fascination was something bizarre. After all, justifying a trip to a place just because of its name, doesn’t sound very inspiring. Fortunately, I am not an exception, some time ago I read Radek Sikorski’s book “Ashes of Saints, Wartime Afghanistan”, in which he wrote about Kandahar: “there are words that fascinate with their very sound and evoke strange associations, dormant in the deepest layers of our subconscious”. Kandahar…, I must admit that the name of this city evokes similar emotions in me ? Beirut, on the other hand, has long attracted me with its multiculturalism, diversity, history and, above all, complicated political situation. It was the complicated political situation that caused many people to advise me against traveling to this place. I was presented with many chilling scenarios of my trip: terrorist attacks, theft or kidnapping. I really, really don’t like it when someone tries to dissuade me from my intended plans. However, it was settled , the tickets were bought, I felt in my heart that Lebanon was a completely different place, that I had to change the way this country is perceived. Besides that, I had to go there in the teeth of everyone’s opinion. ? Effect? I came back safe and sound, and even more, nowhere else have I met so many kind and open people. It seems to me that it is a matter of the hard experience of this country, which, despite many obstacles, is still trying to keep its head above water. The paradox of Lebanon is that it is an open country, and at the same time very divided. For years, Lebanon has been a place of asylum for many refugees. Once a large number of Palestinians came here and now it’s estimated that a quarter of the total population of Lebanon are refugees from Syria. Lebanon was also a place of refuge for many Polish civilians who left the Soviet Union with the Anders Army. There is also a Polish cemetery in Beirut, which was established just after World War II. Lebanon has been a place inhabited by both Christians and Muslims for centuries. In order to ensure equal treatment of all citizens, in 1943, based on the 1932 census, a special political system was developed. It was based on the religious key. The president was a Maronite (Christian), the prime minister a Sunni Muslim, and the head of the paliament a Shiite. While in the 1940s Christians accounted for 55% of Lebanon’s total population, over time the situation changed dramatically. With the outbreak of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, many refugees from Palestine began to arrive in Lebanon. Dissatisfaction with the unequal distribution of power and the lack of consent to conduct another census was the cause of the outbreak of a bloody civil war that lasted from 1975 to 1990. During the war, Beirut was divided into a Muslim eastern part and a Christian western part, while the central part of the city separating them became virtually no-man’s land. The demarcation line, also known as the Green Line, ran, through Martyr’s Square with a characteristic statue commemorating Lebanese patriots fighting against the rule of the Ottoman Empire. To this day, numerous bullet marks can be seen on the monument. After the war, the great reconstruction of Beirut began, the city was modernized and regained its status as a tourist and cultural center of the Middle East. Not without reason it was called “European gateway to the Middle East” or “Paris of the Middle East”. The multicultural and multi-religious nature of the capital of Lebanon is particularly reflected in the architecture, the Arab buildings interestingly blend with the European ones. A characteristic building located right next to Martyr’s Square is the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque (blu Mosque). In the background of the mosque there’s an interesting construction, so-called the Egg. The abandoned building resembling a spaceship is the result of the unfinished construction of the cinema. The cosmopolitan, multicultural character of Beirut is emphasized by the Maronite (Christian) Cathedral of St. George, located right next to the mosque. It is adjacent to the columns remembering the times of the Roman Empire. A completely different atmosphere of the city can be felt in Bourij Hammoud (Little Armenia). As you can guess, this part of the city is inhabited mainly by people of Armenian origin. However, walking through the streets of Beirut, you can still see numerous checkpoints and barricades. Both the city and the country are still divided and the political situation is very tense. Beirut is also a paradise for urbex lovers, numerous abandoned buildings remind not only of the turbulent history but also testify to the current problems faced not only by Beirut, but all of Lebanon One of the most interesting places is the palace located near the city center. I will write more about it soon in a separate post about abandoned places in Lebanon. It would seem that Beirut had experienced enough, but on August 4 2020, another tragedy occurred. A huge explosion of ammonium nitrate stored in the port killed hundreds of people and ruined a large part of the city. The explosion was so powerful that it razed a large part of the port to the ground, and its rumble could be heard in Cyprus, located more than 200 km from Lebanon. In addition, it accelerated the collapse of the Lebanese economy, apart from numerous economic problems, Lebanon was also struggling then with the COVID-19 pandemic. The port was a key import point for Lebanon, and the silos located nearby held most of Lebanon’s grain stocks. The tragedy sparked numerous protests among the Lebanese, ammonium nitrate was stored in the port for 6 years, without proper protection. Beirut is a city that is said to rise like a phoenix from the ashes. In fact, in the vicinity of the port, it’s hard to see traces of the explosion. Only silos and a sculpture, made of steel recovered from the ruined port, remind of the tragedy. However, the most moving are the photos of people who died during the explosion. They can be seen on a small wall separating the port from the main road. Despite all these tragedies, Beirut is still a vibrant city. An ideal place for an evening walk is the promenade, which offers an amazing view of the Mediterranean Sea. Here is also the symbol of Beirut “Pigeons’ Rock” or Rock of Raouché – two rocks, which are a reminder of the earthquake that took place in the area in the thirteenth century.

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Lebanon – anarchy on the road, there is a method in this madness!

Gosia — Sat, 08 Jul 2023 18:20:58 +0000

Lebanon is a country where you can experience virtually everything on the road. I admit, I broke every possible rule here. During my several-day stay, I travelled over 1,300 km. Probably many people going to this country are thinking about renting a car. There is no denying that you can guess what the temperament of Lebanese drivers is. How does it look from my perspective? In short, Lebanon is a great place to drive! Roads The condition of the roads is generally very good, moreover, they are all free. Asphalt roads lead to most of the tourist attractions, while dirt roads are also not a big challenge for a standard car, the Nissan Micra I rented managed without any problems. When renting a car, you need to remember that it should have an adequate reserve of power, as Lebanese roads are often very winding and steep. However, mountain roads is the thing which makes driving around this country an incredible pleasure. The main roads are wide, often several lanes each way. As a rule, the lanes are not marked, so it all depends on the driving skills of the drivers. In my opinion, this is an advantage, because during peak hours more cars can drive on the road. It often happens that drivers going in the direction of increased traffic force drivers from the opposite direction to provide an additional lane. However, one thing that is particularly irritating is the unmarked thresholds. Fortunately, they are not as high as, for example, in Jordan, but I have been surprised more than once by Micra’s ability to fly freely in the air. Fuel Fuel at the stations was available without restrictions during my stay. A liter cost around 1$. You can pay in dollars or local currency. Traffic regulations I will not write here a lot, the rules are practically non-existent. U-turns on the highway, using the wrong turn idicators, driving the wrong way, overtaking on a solid line (if there is one), jumping at the red light are just some of the wide range of Lebanese drivers’ maneuvers. In general, the most interesting situations occur in the right lane, so to avoid surprises, it is safer to drive on the left. In fact, I forgot that there is one law that is respected throughout the whole Lebanon. Contrary to the rules in most countries, those entering the roundabout have the right of way. Of course, it cannot be assumed that everyone will respect this principle, but in most cases it worked. At first I laughed it off, but when I saw the roundabouts on the motorway, the rule suddenly made sense to me. Checkpoints Driving around Lebanon, you can meet numerous checkpoints, but you shouldn’t be afraid of them. Soldiers seeing tourists usually just wave their hand, signalling to go on. I was only checked once at the checkpoint just outside Baalbek. I was asked for my rental documents and passport, and I had to answer to some standard questions. Driving style This is probably the most interesting part. From my perspective, I will say briefly, I have never driven anywhere as freely as in Lebanon. True, I broke every possible law, just like the rest of the drivers, but who said that respecting the rules ensures safe driving? In my opinion, drivers in Lebanon drive very well, have reflex, are able to anticipate the situation on the road and are determined. All this means that everyone automatically adapts to the situation on the road. Personally, I prefer this option, because in this way the traffic regulates itself. Driving around Beirut, Tripoli or Sidon, there were practically no traffic jams during rush hour, and I never saw any accident or even a bump. The maneuvers performed by local drivers are not violent, you can predict their movement in advance. Driving in larger cities also requires determination, you often have to make your way. However, many times the drivers politely let me in. I will not hide that it could have been due to the element of surprise. Women are rarely seen behind the wheel. Many people told me that they had never seen a woman traveling alone in Lebanon let alone driving a car. After all, it had to be the first time ? Driving in the city is different from driving in the countryside. Here, drivers are less predictable and you need to pay more attention to the traffic situation, especially when driving faster. Outside the city, I have often seen children behind the wheel. While traveling in Lebanon, I saw the police only once. What’s more, they even told me not to park on the highway ? In general, the driver control system does not seem to work well in this country. In short, we are most afraid of what we don’t know. However, if someone knows the traffic in a larger city and is not a fresh driver, will easily manage in Lebanon. However, for mental comfort, it is worth buying full car insurance and taking into account the possibility of scratching the car.

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