Morocco -

Fez – the city of a million mosques, donkeys and pigeon poo

Gosia — Sun, 02 Nov 2025 09:56:50 +0000

Fez isn’t a city — it’s a medieval time machine with a full-immersion option in Arab culture. Founded in the late 8th century, it’s considered the oldest and best-preserved Islamic city in the world. But don’t expect some boring open-air museum — this is 100% Arab city life, complete with chaos, colour and noise in generous supply. For centuries, Fez was Morocco’s capital and the beating heart of religion, learning and culture. It’s also where the world’s oldest still-operating university — Al-Karawiyyin — has been running uninterrupted since the 9th century. Though today it’s Morocco’s fourth-largest city, Fez has stubbornly held onto its medieval soul. The adventure begins at Bab Bou Jeloud, one of fifteen gates leading into the old city — the medina. I show up at the crack of dawn, naively hoping to see it in peace and quiet. The gate, covered in intricate blue mosaic, looks straight out of a fairytale. But as soon as I step through, the fairytale ends and reality slaps me in the face — welcome to the Arab souk. The stalls are crammed with goods, the workshops buzz with local craftsmen — potters, weavers, jewellers — it’s crowded and the air is thick with passionate haggling. It’s pure Arabia. At first glance it seems like utter chaos, but there’s method to the madness. The souk is divided by trade — metal goods, food, spices, clothes, cosmetics — all neatly sectioned off, assuming you can navigate the nearly thousand alleyways that make up this labyrinth. The medina is so huge it even has dedicated tourist trails to stop visitors getting completely lost. It’s also the world’s largest car-free urban area — goods here still travel the old-school way: on the backs of donkeys. Apparently, the idea of a sustainable city was alive and kicking here long before the EU wrote its first directive. Fez is also known as the City of a Million Mosques. For centuries, Islamic scholars have trained in its many madrasas. One such gem is the richly decorated Al-Attarine Madrasa — a place that oozes the spirit of the past. But the true calling card of Fez? The tanneries — and the biggest and smelliest of them all is Chouara. Operating non-stop since the 11th century, it hasn’t changed much since medieval times. From above, it looks almost picturesque: dozens of stone vats filled with natural dyes in every shade from saffron yellow and poppy red to deep indigo blue. But before the leather gets its fancy colour, it goes through a process that’s… well, let’s call it character-building. Chouara is the oldest functioning tannery in the world — and the process is still delightfully medieval. First, the hides are soaked in a white soup made of water, lime, salt… and pigeon droppings. Nope, not a joke. The mixture softens the leather, making it more absorbent. Then comes the dye bath, followed by open-air drying. Most of the workers are men, wading waist-deep in this medieval brew, doing it all under the scorching sun. The best way to see the tannery in full glory is from one of the surrounding rooftop terraces. For the top view, head to the terrace at shop no. 10 — a small tip to the shopkeeper gets you access to the show. And yes, every visitor gets a sprig of mint, because the smell up there is… let’s say “aromatically unforgettable”. It’s also worth dropping by the nearby Sidi Moussa tannery — smaller but less crowded. End your visit with a bite at Café Clock, where for 110 dirhams you can try a camel burger. It tastes like beef, only leaner and a bit more aromatic. Fez isn’t just a city — it’s a living medieval relic, where tradition tangles with the noise and energy of everyday Arab life. Here, history smells like tanned leather, and every turn of the medina reveals a new story.

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Essaouira, Morocco

Gosia — Sun, 20 Jul 2025 15:50:33 +0000

Essaouira is one of those Moroccan cities that’s well worth a visit. Instead of the usual maze of narrow alleyways and a chaotic medina, here you’ll find a neat grid of streets, whitewashed houses with blue shutters, and a fresh breeze straight off the Atlantic. While it may not be as famous as Marrakesh or Fez, Essaouira has its own story, its own vibe, and more than a few solid reasons to swing by. The city’s history goes all the way back to Roman times, when traders dealt in a precious dye known as Tyrian purple (which I wrote about here). It was extracted from a particular species of sea snail found along the coast. The dye was used to colour garments across the Roman Empire. Later came the Portuguese – who, as they tended to do, got busy building fortresses in far-flung exotic spots. In 1506, they built one here and called it Mogador. Then in the 18th century, the area came under the control of the Sultan of Morocco, a man who appreciated both order and the finer points of French urban planning. Thus was born the city of As-Suwaira – meaning “beautifully designed” in Arabic. The French, gave it the more melodic name Essaouira. Essaouira is a whole different city compared to Fez or Marrakesh. It feels more orderly and a bit more European. The city is a blend of Arabic and European architecture, with white houses and blue shutters giving off Greek island vibes. Throw in the Arabic atmosphere and you’ve got yourself a rather intriguing mix. However, the best city’s attraction are the defensive walls. On the ocean side, two bastions – known as skala – guard the city. One of them, Skala de la Ville, sits right next to the old town. Back in the day it protected the city from pirates; nowadays, it offers great views over the medina and the sea. The second bastion, Skala du Port, as you can suppose is located right by the port, where you’ll find a fleet of iconic blue fishing boats. There’s a unique local energy here. At the fish market, you can watch hardened Essaouira locals haggling. From the port, you get a great view of the medina. The place also pulls in tourists – thanks largely to Game of Thrones. This places is Astapor in the series. Essaouira is also known as the “Wind City” – which sounds quite poetic until you’re chewing sand halfway through your beachside lunch. Still, it’s exactly that wind that brings windsurfers and kitesurfers here from all over the globe.

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“The Hills Have Eyes” Gas Station – Moroccan Horrorwood

Gosia — Sun, 29 Jun 2025 09:59:44 +0000

At first glance, it’s just a rusty old gas station in the middle of nowhere. But get a little closer, and suddenly you feel as if you were participating in a B-grade horror film. And not without reason – this is the actual filming location of The Hills Have Eyes (2006), a remake of the 1977 classic of the same name.To be honest, I haven’t watched either version. However, visiting the abandoned set was unsettling enough on its own 😅. The station is located near the town of Ouarzazate, often dubbed the “Hollywood of Morocco.” American filmmakers fell in love with this place – it’s basically like sunny California but on a budget.Fun fact: movie sets built in Morocco are often just left behind in the desert after filming. No one bothers to clean up the props or tear down the decorations. It’s a perfect environment for urban exploration fans. The station is located in the middle of absolute nowhere – no signs of civilization, just a barren, mountainous, semi-desert landscape. From the distance, it looks like run-down gas station but peek through the window, and things get creepy. Dust-covered cans, glass jars, faded posters from the ’60s, peeling paint on the walls – all of it adds up to a seriously eerie vibe. Needless to say, you won’t fill your tank here. In the abandoned garage next door, you’ll find scattered props, old tires, and tools that I’d rather not know how they were used in the film. The area is “decorated” with gutted, rusting American cars – perfect for an apocalyptic photo shoot (or another horror movie). A dark atmosphere is also created by dolls hanging on the tree. Even though it’s been almost 20 years since the movie came out, the station is still in surprisingly good shape. It may not be a high-class monument, but it is definitely a place worth seeing that is not offered by travel agencies.

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