Africa -

Fez – the city of a million mosques, donkeys and pigeon poo

Gosia — Sun, 02 Nov 2025 09:56:50 +0000

Fez isn’t a city — it’s a medieval time machine with a full-immersion option in Arab culture. Founded in the late 8th century, it’s considered the oldest and best-preserved Islamic city in the world. But don’t expect some boring open-air museum — this is 100% Arab city life, complete with chaos, colour and noise in generous supply. For centuries, Fez was Morocco’s capital and the beating heart of religion, learning and culture. It’s also where the world’s oldest still-operating university — Al-Karawiyyin — has been running uninterrupted since the 9th century. Though today it’s Morocco’s fourth-largest city, Fez has stubbornly held onto its medieval soul. The adventure begins at Bab Bou Jeloud, one of fifteen gates leading into the old city — the medina. I show up at the crack of dawn, naively hoping to see it in peace and quiet. The gate, covered in intricate blue mosaic, looks straight out of a fairytale. But as soon as I step through, the fairytale ends and reality slaps me in the face — welcome to the Arab souk. The stalls are crammed with goods, the workshops buzz with local craftsmen — potters, weavers, jewellers — it’s crowded and the air is thick with passionate haggling. It’s pure Arabia. At first glance it seems like utter chaos, but there’s method to the madness. The souk is divided by trade — metal goods, food, spices, clothes, cosmetics — all neatly sectioned off, assuming you can navigate the nearly thousand alleyways that make up this labyrinth. The medina is so huge it even has dedicated tourist trails to stop visitors getting completely lost. It’s also the world’s largest car-free urban area — goods here still travel the old-school way: on the backs of donkeys. Apparently, the idea of a sustainable city was alive and kicking here long before the EU wrote its first directive. Fez is also known as the City of a Million Mosques. For centuries, Islamic scholars have trained in its many madrasas. One such gem is the richly decorated Al-Attarine Madrasa — a place that oozes the spirit of the past. But the true calling card of Fez? The tanneries — and the biggest and smelliest of them all is Chouara. Operating non-stop since the 11th century, it hasn’t changed much since medieval times. From above, it looks almost picturesque: dozens of stone vats filled with natural dyes in every shade from saffron yellow and poppy red to deep indigo blue. But before the leather gets its fancy colour, it goes through a process that’s… well, let’s call it character-building. Chouara is the oldest functioning tannery in the world — and the process is still delightfully medieval. First, the hides are soaked in a white soup made of water, lime, salt… and pigeon droppings. Nope, not a joke. The mixture softens the leather, making it more absorbent. Then comes the dye bath, followed by open-air drying. Most of the workers are men, wading waist-deep in this medieval brew, doing it all under the scorching sun. The best way to see the tannery in full glory is from one of the surrounding rooftop terraces. For the top view, head to the terrace at shop no. 10 — a small tip to the shopkeeper gets you access to the show. And yes, every visitor gets a sprig of mint, because the smell up there is… let’s say “aromatically unforgettable”. It’s also worth dropping by the nearby Sidi Moussa tannery — smaller but less crowded. End your visit with a bite at Café Clock, where for 110 dirhams you can try a camel burger. It tastes like beef, only leaner and a bit more aromatic. Fez isn’t just a city — it’s a living medieval relic, where tradition tangles with the noise and energy of everyday Arab life. Here, history smells like tanned leather, and every turn of the medina reveals a new story.

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Morocco – clay fortresses, the Eye of Sauron, roses and mountain crossings

Gosia — Sun, 19 Oct 2025 15:42:48 +0000

If you think Morocco is just Marrakesh, camels, and mint tea, well… you’re probably right. But once you stray a bit from the main routes and, instead of a travel agency brochure, pick up a map with hand-marked “odd” spots, you’ll encounter things that will completely change your perception of this country. Amridil Kasbah – a Fortress from a Banknote and a Film Set Amridil Kasbah is located on the road from the Dades Gorge to Ouarzazate. It’s another place on the map of Morocco where time stands still. A kasbah is a protected palace, citadel, or fortification, usually made of clay bricks. Kasbahs were built along trade routes, providing shelter for travelers. Morocco currently boasts many such structures, but the Kasbah of Amridil is a unique site, adorning the Moroccan 50 dirham banknote. Its picturesque setting, nestled in the middle of the Skoura Oasis, and its traditional Berber architecture make it a truly unique place. Noor Ouarzazate – a Moroccan technological marvel Morocco is an incredible place where advanced engineering coexists with traditional clay kasbahs. Near the Kasbah Amridil, a tall tower resembling the “Eye of Sauron” can be seen on the horizon. This is Noor Ouarzazate – one of the largest solar power plants in the world. Imagine 4,200 football fields, but instead of grass – a sea of mirrors. Sounds like a sci-fi set? In Morocco, it’s not a movie, but an everyday occurrence. Noor (meaning “light” in Arabic – very poetic, but also very apt) is a four-part energy complex near the famous city of Ouarzazate. It includes both traditional photovoltaic (PV) panels and more space-age technologies for concentrating solar radiation (CSP – Concentrated Solar Power). The plant’s operating principle is simple: giant parabolic mirrors track the sun, and the rays, concentrated on a tower, heat tubes filled with special oil to temperatures up to 393°C. The oil heats water, which in turn drives turbines, and these then turn into generators that convert mechanical energy into electricity. The plant has a capacity of 580 MW and is part of Morocco’s plan to use 52% of its energy from renewable sources by 2030. Thanks to this plant, Morocco has become a leader in solar energy in Africa and is reducing its dependence on imported fossil fuels. I saw a similar facility in Israel some time ago. Kasbah Taourirt If you ever decide to visit this place, I’m sure your first thought will be, “that fortress looks familiar.” And indeed, this place is famous from the first Gladiator film. It’s located in Ouarzazate, the so-called Moroccan Hollywood, right next to the famous Atlas Studios, which I wrote about here. The fortress looks impressive from the outside, but its interior is quite austere. Although there’s not much to see, for 20 dirhams (a pittance), it’s worth a visit, if only for the atmosphere and the feeling of walking on a film set. Dades and Todra Gorges Although located close to each other, these gorges represent two completely different worlds. The first gateway to the incredible Moroccan landscape is the town of Tinghir, surrounded by a green oasis with the Atlas Mountains as a backdrop. Just beyond the city viewpoint begins the spectacular route through the Todra Gorge. The vertical limestone walls look as if someone had built a 400-meter-high rock wall on either side of the river. Moreover, depending on the time of day, they take on various shades, from orange to pink and red. At the final section, the gorge narrows to a mere 10 meters wide. Meanwhile, the road through the Dades Gorge is a real rollercoaster, with kilometers of serpentines, sharp turns, and no barriers. It’s truly fascinating. The gorge is formed by red rocks with fanciful shapes. A particularly interesting rock formation is the “Monkey Fingers.” The rocks are shaped like fingers, and from a distance, you can see an entire hand rising from the valley floor. The views aren’t the only attraction of this route. It’s also known as the “Road of a Thousand Kasbahs,” or mud fortresses. Built by the Berbers to defend against invasions, some of these fortresses are still inhabited by locals. It’s impossible to drive through Dades without noticing that life here moves at its own pace, free from the madness of large cities. Kalaat M’Gouna – Valley of the Roses The Dades and Todra Gorges are not the only attraction in this region. A little further south lies the enchanting “Valley of the Roses,” which transforms into a fairytale rose wonderland in May. Local women harvest tons of petals daily, which are sent to nearby factories. It’s estimated that between 3,000 and 4,000 tons of petals are harvested here between April and May. The petals are then used to make perfumes, creams, and the famous rose oils. It’s said that it takes half a ton of petals to produce one liter of this oil. Therefore, it’s no wonder that just one milliliter of it costs more than gold. From Kalaat M’Gouna, it’s worth the drive to Bou Tharar. The road, which once required a Jeep and courage, is now as smooth as rose balm. The views? Red rocks, a green valley, and spectacular views, especially at sunset, make this 30-kilometer stretch of road an incredible experience. Tizi n’Tichka, or Pasture Pass Tizi n’Tichka is the rather unusual name for the highest and most winding road in Morocco. At an altitude of over 2,000 meters, you can see the most beautiful mountain landscapes of the High Atlas. The High Atlas is the highest mountain range in this part of Africa. However, Tizi n’Tichka is no ordinary mountain pass—it is a natural border between two worlds: the western Mediterranean, with its palm trees and olive groves, and the arid eastern part, covered in the sands of the Sahara. This road has been traveled since ancient times by caravans transporting goods from East Africa to Marrakesh. Back then, only narrow, winding mule tracks were available. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French decided to build a road here, which was then considered a marvel of engineering. Today, the route is wider and much safer, although it is sometimes closed during heavy snowfall. Tizi n’Tichka delights with its diversity, with views that change with every kilometer. It’s the best place to experience the atmosphere of wild and rugged Morocco. All these stops form the basis of a two-day tour of central Morocco. Driving here feels like a journey through time and space – passing medieval kasbahs, futuristic engineering structures, and incredible mountain landscapes.

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Atlas Studios – Styrofoam Hollywood in Morocco

Gosia — Sat, 06 Sep 2025 14:10:15 +0000

Visiting Atlas Studios in the Moroccan town of Ouarzazate is like ticking off Egypt, Rome and a bit of Somalia within an hour. Are you into cinema? Forget Hollywood – real movie magic happens in Morocco, between the High Atlas Mountains and the sands of the Sahara. In fact, the stories of both places kicked off around the same time. While Hollywood was still just a sleepy residential district at the end of the 19th century, Louis Lumière was already filming his first movie Le Chevrier Marocain (The Moroccan Goatherd) here in Morocco. But it wasn’t until 1983 that businessman Mohamed Belghmi opened an official film studio – and thus Atlas Studios was born: the sunny, low-budget alternative to Hollywood, offering mountain views, desert vibes, a touch of the exotic, and the unofficial slogan: Cinema on a Shoestring. The real turning point came in 1998, when Ridley Scott chose the location to film Gladiator. Blockbusters like Lawrence of Arabia, The Last Temptation of Christ, Gladiator, The Jewel of the Nile, The Mummy, Black Hawk Down, Babel, The Bourne Ultimatum, Game of Thrones and Kundun have been filmed here. These days, Atlas Studios is one of the largest facilities of its kind in the world. Film sets are built across the vast nothingness around Ouarzazate, then often abandoned – leaving behind ghostly remnants of scenery, ripe for exploration (more on that soon). It’s hard to say where the studio ends and the desert begins. The studios are open to visitors. Entry costs 80 dirhams, plus an extra 30 for the Kingdom of Heaven set (which, naturally, was closed in 2025 when I visited – classic). Tours are guided only, with local guides sharing behind-the-scenes titbits from various productions. The visit kicks off in a vast courtyard, where you’ll find a replica of the F-16 jet from The Jewel of the Nile (1985, starring Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner). Just behind it, the vehicles used in Black Hawk Down are parked like props in a post-apocalyptic car boot sale. You’ll also spot the bus from the legendary Prison Break series, Noah’s Ark, and a polystyrene Aston Martin – an oddly combo. Next up: Cleopatra (1999) takes the stage. The Egyptian temple set is genuinely impressive, with towering columns and a dark, moody interior. The murals look authentic – although the hieroglyphs don’t say much, since they’re just there for show. From the palace, you’re thrown straight into the slave market from Gladiator. The atmosphere thickens – dusty, dark, airless rooms give off real “escape-room with no exit” vibe. All that’s missing is Russell Crowe yelling, Are you not entertained?! And you want to answer: Not yet… Because this is just the beginning. Nearby you’ll find a scaled-down version of the Karnak Temple from Luxor, featured in Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra and The Mummy. Smaller, sure – but eerily accurate. Then rolls in another Cleopatra temple from Asterix & Obelix. With its wild colours and intricate detail, you might just feel like Monica Bellucci – briefly, before noticing that the paint’s starting to peel. In the distance looms the massive Jerusalem set from Kingdom of Heaven – reportedly the largest ever built for a film. The grand finale? A Buddhist temple created for Martin Scorsese’s Kundun, complete with an enormous Buddha statue and décor that instantly transports you to Tibet (well, kind of). Atlas Studios is where blockbuster dreams collide with a Home Depot reality. One minute you feel like a film star, the next – like an unpaid extra in a school performance. From the outside: majestic temples and luxury palaces. Up close: polystyrene, plywood and wooden scaffolding. The whole thing looks like a Monty Python sketch come to life. It’s epic – and totally absurd.

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Banjul – the capital that barely exists

Gosia — Sun, 31 Aug 2025 10:26:45 +0000

Banjul is the capital of The Gambia, though to be fair, it looks more like a sleepy provincial town than the beating heart of a country. Not only is it not the largest city in the nation, but with a population of just 40,000, it ranks eighth in terms of size. No surprise then that it’s one of the smallest capitals in the world. The city is relatively young – it was founded by the British in 1816 as a military outpost to guard the mouth of the Gambia River and enforce the ban on the slave trade. Back then it was called Bathurst, named after the colonial secretary, Lord Bathurst. It served as the administrative centre of the Gambia Protectorate and played a key logistical role for the Allies during the Second World War. After independence in 1965, it was renamed Banjul. What’s left from colonial times? Mostly increasingly crumbling buildings and a widespread knowledge of English (which, to be fair, is true across the whole country). But location-wise, Banjul has promise – it sits on St. Mary’s Island, right at the mouth of the river as it spills into the Atlantic. From here, you can hop on a ferry to the opposite bank – to the town of Barra. But more on that later. 😉 Banjul today – not a showstopper, but full of surprises Let’s not sugar-coat it – Banjul isn’t exactly the place from postcards. It’s more like endearing chaos: a bit of colonial architecture, a splash of African vibrancy, plenty of dust and a way of life that’s blissfully unaware of clocks or timetables. The city’s main artery – Independence Drive – ends at Arch 22, a triumphal arch that dwarfs everything around it. Built after the 1994 military coup. It was meant to symbolise a “new era”, but nowadays it mostly symbolises how far architecture can veer into delusion. You can climb to the top, though, and enjoy panoramic views over the city and the Gambia River. Despite (or because of) all this, Banjul has become popular with tourists – especially Brits. There are some decent beaches nearby, with Cape Point Beach being the most famous. The Barra crossing in slow motion The Barra–Banjul ferry crossing was certainly one of the most memorable parts of my trip in The Gambia. In theory, it’s just five kilometres. In practice? Feels like five light-years. And I’m not exaggerating – here you don’t just cross a river, you test the limits of patience and human imagination 😄 There’s no real alternative to the ferry – just have a look at the map. The Gambia River basically slices the country in half, and to get to Barra any other way, you’d pretty much have to drive across the whole country. Slightly overkill for a five-kilometre crossing. There’s no such thing as a timetable, and the queue to the ferry looks like it’s been there since the dawn of time. I couldn’t help but admire the women standing in the blazing sun, balancing enormous loads on their heads like it’s no big deal. Everyone waits tensely for the gates to open – and when they do, it’s a real people’s migration. The ferry takes on everything: people, cars, goats, sacks of rice, barrels of who-knows-what. The trip lasts about 30 minutes and trust me, nobody gets bored. Kids are running around, vendors are pushing peanuts, sugary drinks and knock-off plastic watches in your face. From the loudspeakers you’ll hear either local music or monotone announcements from state radio. People chat, laugh, nap. And you? You sit, watch and soak it all in – and it hits you: this is the quintessence of travelling in Africa. Drift, don’t rush, and absorb the glorious mess around you. Because this ferry isn’t just a means of transport – it’s Gambia in a nutshell. Everyone’s here: truck drivers, fishermen, school kids and wide-eyed tourists from the West. Nowhere else will you witness such a collision of lives, stories and surreal little moments in one place.

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Monkey Grove and Urbex Adventures in a Sanatorium and Monastery –Fes surroundings

Gosia — Sun, 10 Aug 2025 16:30:53 +0000

A monkey grove and urbex in a sanatorium and monastery – these three places are located not far from the famous city of Fez. Just a short trip outside the city and you’ll find scenery straight out of a B-movie horror movie, a nature documentary, or… a banana commercial. If you have a penchant for abandoned, strange, and slightly eerie places, and you’re not afraid of meeting a poker-faced monkey, then you absolutely must see these three unique places. Abandoned Tuberculosis Sanatorium – Ben Smim A hidden gem for any urban exploration aficionado, this old TB sanatorium sits deep in the forest near the village of Ben Smim. The road leading there meanders through scenic green landscapes, with the vast Michlifen dam reservoir looming in the distance. It might seem like the road leads to a charming resort, perfectly integrated into its natural surroundings. Instead, an eight-floor concrete complex looms on the horizon, making it the perfect setting for a B-film about a haunted clinic. The sanatorium was established in 1955 and operated vigorously until 1965, when it was taken over by the state. As you can see, state interference in something that functions efficiently, regardless of latitude, ends the same way 😀 It took the Moroccan government only 10 years to put an end to this facility. After its closure, the building was abandoned and looted to the ground. Furniture, medical equipment, and anything that could be carried off were gone. The interiors are dilapidated, but the atmosphere of a bygone era is still palpable, especially when you hear slamming windows and creaking doors… Cèdre Gouraud – the Monkey Grove Mafia Near the sanatorium lies a unique attraction – the “Monkey Grove,” where, for a change, the main characters are monkeys. At first glance, you might think it’s a unique spot. The Middle Atlas Mountains, towering cedar trees, and wildlife – a scene straight out of National Geographic. However, as soon as you get out of the car, you realize that a rather effective cooperation is at work here. Suddenly… a monkey tugs at your pants, staring deeply into your eyes with utter determination. Being primates, you understand each other without words; subconsciously, you know he’s asking, “Where are my peanuts?” – a passive-aggressive, but in a simian style. And that’s when vendors appear with a full assortment of monkey delicacies. What’s more interesting is that the monkeys know how to behave and are very sociable. So it’s best to bring your own provisions, and I might add that bananas are the most popular here😉 Tioumliline – The Rebel Monastery The third attraction in this bizarre triangle is Tioumliline – an abandoned monastery with a political past. “Tioumliline” means “white stones”, and it was founded in 1952 by Benedictine monks, who set up a clinic and a school here. All was going well until the monks decided to take sides in Morocco’s independence struggle. After Morocco gained independence, the monks doubled down on their activism, which made them a bit of a headache for the new authorities. Eventually, in 1968, the monastery was shut down. But it didn’t fade into complete obscurity – in 2009, it starred in the film Of Gods and Men, gaining a second life on screen. Although it’s currently closed and undergoing renovations, it’s still worth a quick stopover if you’re driving south from Fes. The surroundings are peaceful, the history spicy, and it’s got that “forbidden” urbex charm. The area around Fes is more than just a pitstop en route to the south. It’s a chance to dive into the offbeat, the abandoned, and the bizarre – the kind of Morocco that doesn’t make it into glossy travel brochures. A derelict sanatorium, a politically active monastery, and a monkey-run cedar forest. Sounds like a fever dream? Maybe. But it’s exactly these odd combos that make for the best stories.

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Bandia Reserve – Senegal’s Safari Experience

Gosia — Sun, 27 Jul 2025 11:10:03 +0000

Bandia Reserve lies just 65 km from Senegal’s capital, Dakar. Established in 1990, Bandia was the country’s very first private nature reserve. The area is fenced, but within its 3,500 hectares, animals roam as if the fence didn’t exist. Add to that a scenic backdrop of giant baobab trees, palms and scrub, and you’ve got yourself the perfect setting for your next wildlife photoshoot. What about the Big Five? Well… the lions and elephants have the day off. Bandia doesn’t offer the full African “Big Five” experience, but it makes up for it with sheer diversity. Here, you can spot giraffes, white rhinos, impala gazelles, buffalo, hyenas and crocodiles. The reserve is also home to ostriches and over 150 species of birds – a birdwatcher’s paradise, if there ever was one. Monkeys are a common sight too, often striking poses like they’re auditioning for National Geographic magazine cover. As for zebras – they’re around, but you’ll need luck and eagle eyes. They’re the introverts of the animal kingdom here. Best time to visit? November to May – the dry season brings the best conditions: no mud, no mosquitoes and far better chances of spotting the wildlife. Plus, the landscape becomes even more dramatic – with dry riverbeds and ancient baobabs doing their best “Out of Africa” impression. What does the safari look like? Entrance isn’t exactly cheap by Senegalese standards – 12,000 CFA francs, which is around €19 (current prices here).You can explore the reserve on your own using a private vehicle, a taxi, or a rented car. During the rainy season, 4x4s are a must. The reserve is open daily from 8:00 to 18:00, but the best time to visit is early in the morning, when it’s cooler and the animals haven’t yet clocked out for a siesta. The safari lasts about 1.5 to 2 hours, and after your adventure you can refuel at the on-site restaurant – ideally while watching crocodiles lounge lazily by their pool like scaly retirees. Bandia Reserve is the perfect choice if you want a taste of the African wild without hacking your way through the jungle with a machete. Wild animals, striking landscapes and plenty of “wow” photo options – and it’s all just an hour’s drive from Dakar.

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Essaouira, Morocco

Gosia — Sun, 20 Jul 2025 15:50:33 +0000

Essaouira is one of those Moroccan cities that’s well worth a visit. Instead of the usual maze of narrow alleyways and a chaotic medina, here you’ll find a neat grid of streets, whitewashed houses with blue shutters, and a fresh breeze straight off the Atlantic. While it may not be as famous as Marrakesh or Fez, Essaouira has its own story, its own vibe, and more than a few solid reasons to swing by. The city’s history goes all the way back to Roman times, when traders dealt in a precious dye known as Tyrian purple (which I wrote about here). It was extracted from a particular species of sea snail found along the coast. The dye was used to colour garments across the Roman Empire. Later came the Portuguese – who, as they tended to do, got busy building fortresses in far-flung exotic spots. In 1506, they built one here and called it Mogador. Then in the 18th century, the area came under the control of the Sultan of Morocco, a man who appreciated both order and the finer points of French urban planning. Thus was born the city of As-Suwaira – meaning “beautifully designed” in Arabic. The French, gave it the more melodic name Essaouira. Essaouira is a whole different city compared to Fez or Marrakesh. It feels more orderly and a bit more European. The city is a blend of Arabic and European architecture, with white houses and blue shutters giving off Greek island vibes. Throw in the Arabic atmosphere and you’ve got yourself a rather intriguing mix. However, the best city’s attraction are the defensive walls. On the ocean side, two bastions – known as skala – guard the city. One of them, Skala de la Ville, sits right next to the old town. Back in the day it protected the city from pirates; nowadays, it offers great views over the medina and the sea. The second bastion, Skala du Port, as you can suppose is located right by the port, where you’ll find a fleet of iconic blue fishing boats. There’s a unique local energy here. At the fish market, you can watch hardened Essaouira locals haggling. From the port, you get a great view of the medina. The place also pulls in tourists – thanks largely to Game of Thrones. This places is Astapor in the series. Essaouira is also known as the “Wind City” – which sounds quite poetic until you’re chewing sand halfway through your beachside lunch. Still, it’s exactly that wind that brings windsurfers and kitesurfers here from all over the globe.

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“The Hills Have Eyes” Gas Station – Moroccan Horrorwood

Gosia — Sun, 29 Jun 2025 09:59:44 +0000

At first glance, it’s just a rusty old gas station in the middle of nowhere. But get a little closer, and suddenly you feel as if you were participating in a B-grade horror film. And not without reason – this is the actual filming location of The Hills Have Eyes (2006), a remake of the 1977 classic of the same name.To be honest, I haven’t watched either version. However, visiting the abandoned set was unsettling enough on its own 😅. The station is located near the town of Ouarzazate, often dubbed the “Hollywood of Morocco.” American filmmakers fell in love with this place – it’s basically like sunny California but on a budget.Fun fact: movie sets built in Morocco are often just left behind in the desert after filming. No one bothers to clean up the props or tear down the decorations. It’s a perfect environment for urban exploration fans. The station is located in the middle of absolute nowhere – no signs of civilization, just a barren, mountainous, semi-desert landscape. From the distance, it looks like run-down gas station but peek through the window, and things get creepy. Dust-covered cans, glass jars, faded posters from the ’60s, peeling paint on the walls – all of it adds up to a seriously eerie vibe. Needless to say, you won’t fill your tank here. In the abandoned garage next door, you’ll find scattered props, old tires, and tools that I’d rather not know how they were used in the film. The area is “decorated” with gutted, rusting American cars – perfect for an apocalyptic photo shoot (or another horror movie). A dark atmosphere is also created by dolls hanging on the tree. Even though it’s been almost 20 years since the movie came out, the station is still in surprisingly good shape. It may not be a high-class monument, but it is definitely a place worth seeing that is not offered by travel agencies.

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Zanzibar – The Spice Islands and Cloves Smuggling

Gosia — Sun, 22 Jun 2025 14:07:40 +0000

The Zanzibar islands are known as the Spice Islands and have long been a centre of spice production. The most popular spices include cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper. The best way to learn about the rich history of these crops is to visit a local spice farm. Spice farms in Zanzibar are not typical vast plantations where a single type of plant stretches to the horizon. Instead, they have a demonstrative character, with a variety of plants and fruit grown on a relatively small area. This allows visitors to see the diversity of Zanzibar in a relatively short time. There are many offers for the so-called Spice Tour; I visited the Kizimbani farm. I did this accidentally while exploring the island. It was only later that I found out it’s a government company, engaged in the production and export of spices and agricultural training. I was greeted by a local guide who spoke fluent English and had extensive knowledge about spices. He showed me plants and trees that I did not recognize at all, and being as green as grass in the subject, I tried to pretend that I knew a little about cooking 😉 The first tree with round fruits turned out to be nutmeg, known in Swahili as kungu manga. Besides its culinary value, this spice is also famous for other properties. In larger quantities, it can have mild hallucinogenic effects. It is also known as an aphrodisiac and is used to calm and lull children to sleep. The turmeric root also didn’t look familiar to me, as I mainly knew this spice in the form of yellow powder. Meanwhile, turmeric, also known as the saffron for the poor, looks similar to ginger, with the only difference – intense orange colour. The yellow powder is obtained by drying and grinding the previously boiled roots. In Zanzibar, turmeric is also used to treat indigestion. Pepper – here I had no doubts, I immediately recognized the plant being presented to me. However, when I was asked about the different types of pepper, that was where my knowledge ended. I was convinced that red, green, black, and white pepper were different varieties of this plant. It turns out that all these types are the same variety. Red pepper comes from the most mature berries, which are soaked in water to remove their shells. They obtain their red colour by being dried in the sun. To get green pepper, the immature seeds are dried in the shade to maintain their intense green color and then soaked in brine. Black pepper is made from unripe berries that undergo a drying and fermentation process. White pepper is produced from ripe berries that are soaked to remove their skins. Lemongrass was easier to recognize by its characteristic stalks. After crushing them in my hand, I had no doubts. The distinctive smell was typical of this plant. Interestingly, the fresh aroma of lemongrass effectively repels mosquitoes. Besides its culinary properties, lemongrass is also used as an ingredient in cosmetics. The guide’s question about the tree bark immediately brought the answer to mind. Of course, it was cinnamon. In Zanzibar, cinnamon is called the king of spices. The entire tree is utilized. Ground bark or bark rolled into sticks, which we know as cinnamon sticks, is used in many dishes and desserts. Cinnamon also has antibacterial and disinfectant properties. While the bark tastes like cinnamon, the root has a fresh, menthol scent. From the roots and leaves, a substance that resembles Amol in both properties and scent is produced. It is used similarly, as it warms the skin and has antibacterial effects when rubbed in. Finally, it was time for the cloves. When I saw the clove tree, I had no doubts. The immature buds on the tree resembled the shape of dried cloves. They are picked from the tree when four characteristic protrusions appear at their tips, and then they are dried in the sun. Zanzibar was once the main exporter of cloves. The trees were brought to the islands in the first half of the 19th century by Arabs from Oman. Spice cultivation was a very profitable business at the time, especially because the Omanis had access to large supplies of cheap labour. At that time, the island thrived on the slave trade. However, in the 1970s, the production of this spice drastically declined due to high competition in the international market and a failed attempt to introduce a socialist economy. In the 1960s and 70s, the government took control of the prices and export of this spice. Artificially lowered prices have made clove production less profitable. Nevertheless, the government doesn’t want to relinquish control over their production, arguing that cloves are a national treasure. Imagine that clove prices are so low that they are smuggled to Kenya in desperation! Smugglers can sell them there for a much higher price. There’s another negative aspect of clove cultivation. To reduce production costs, children are used as cheap labour. Children are more agile and efficient at picking the undeveloped buds from the tree crowns. As one might expect, many of them have accidents, falling from the high branches. Although child labour is illegal in Zanzibar, the government is powerless in this case. Children are often used to help their parents on the plantations. The guide shows me another plant with characteristic tall leafy stalks. However, I have no illusions—I stand no chance in a world spice knowledge contest. The plant presented looks unfamiliar to me. It turns out to be cardamom, which is apparently the second most expensive spice in the world after saffron. I try to justify my ignorance by pointing out to the guide that I am very familiar with this spice in the form of seeds or powder. However, I cannot see any seeds here. The guide reveals the stalks, and the mystery is solved. Cardamom seeds are found at the base of the plant in the form of bulbous rhizomes. At the spice farm, you can also observe the cultivation of various fruit like coconuts, pineapples, and the less familiar jackfruit. Jackfruit is very sweet and can grow to enormous sizes, weighing up to 30 kilograms. Besides its delicious fruit, the jackfruit tree produces a substance that can be used as a glue. This substance is obtained by cutting the bark. Of course, an essential part of the tour was also tasting fruit and presentation of the local products offered by the farm. You can buy spices there. The prices are slightly higher than at the Darajani Market in Stone Town, but the products appear fresher and of better quality at first glance. Additionally, they offered coffee, tea, various oils, perfumes, and soaps. The Spice Tour is a fascinating addition to visit in Zanzibar. The cost of an individual tour is only $5 (in 2023). During the visit, you can learn a lot about famous spices and their various uses. It’s also a great way to gain a closer understanding of the island and the lives of its inhabitants.

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