Albania -

Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana

Gosia — Sun, 21 Sep 2025 11:36:55 +0000

I started the route towards central Albania in the town of Teth. The first point of my trip was Cape Rodon, also known as the Cape of Skanderbeg. This is definitely a place you must visit while being in Albania. Actually, I could point out three reasons why it’s worth coming here. The first are bunkers, which I wrote about here. The second one is the castle built by Skandenberg in 1452, to defend against the Ottoman Empire. Although it was a hiding place for Skandeberg for a while during the siege of Kruja in 1466, it was destroyed by the Turks only a year later. Currently, only the remains of the former fortress can be seen here. Unfortunately part of it was swallowed by the sea. However, the last and probably the most important reason why this place is at the top of the attractions list are the amazing views. An amazing panorama of Tirana and the surrounding area can be admired from Mount Dajti, located to the east of the capital of Albania. You can reach the peak by car, on foot or by the Dajti Express gondola lift. Following the coast southwards, I reached Durrës – one of the oldest cities in Albania. Durrës is currently the second largest city in Albania, after Tirana. Currently, it’s mainly a tourist resort with all the advantages and disadvantages of this type of place. Durrës was founded by the Greeks in 625 BC, and then during the times of the Roman Empire it was an important trading center. Moreover, in the years 1913-1920 it was the capital of Albania. In the city center there’s a Roman Amphitheater, which is one of the largest facilities of this type in Western Balkans. Apparently, in its heyday, when gladiator fights took place here, it could accommodate up to 20,000 viewers. In the mid-4th century, it was partially destroyed by an earthquake. From Ottoman times it remained buried and forgotten for many years. Only in 1996 was it accidentally discovered during earthworks. Currently, the amphitheater, surrounded by urban buildings, looks quite strange. It would seem that nothing has changed here since the archaeological works. It is completely neglected and littered. Unfortunately, this perfectly illustrates the basic problem of Albania, the lack of use of its tourist potential. Near the amphitheater there are the ruins of the Byzantine Forum and the rotunda. They were built around the 5th century and were an important trading and decision-making centre of the city. Unfortunately, as you can see in the attached picture, they suffer the same fate as the amphitheater. The most surprising thing is that both archaeological sites are located right next to the main square of Durres – Sheshi Liria. The Grand Mosque is also located next to the square. It was built in 1931 and was the largest mosque in Albania at that time. During Hoxha’s dictatorship, the minaret was demolished and the mosque itself remained closed. Both the square and the mosque look modern and seem to have been recently renovated. Meanwhile, nearby monuments of great historical value remain neglected. Actually, while walking around Durrës, I had the impression that this city had a problem with its own identity. Modern buildings mix here with typical socialist housing estates and abandoned places. Apparently that’s its charm 😉 The rest of Durres is typical tourist folklore, with all the kitsch of seaside towns. A sandy beach, a large selection of accommodation, restaurants and other attractions attract many tourists here. Personally, I’m not a fan of this type of places, but I still think it’s worth coming here, even for the amazing view of the sunset from the promenade. From Durres, I decided to go to the capital of Albania – Tirana. Tirana is quite a compact city and I think that one day is certainly enough to visit it. The central point of Tirana is Skandenberg Square with the monument to Skandenberg – the national hero who repelled the attacks of the Turks. Near the square is the Ethema Bey Mosque. The mosque is said to be the oldest structure in Tirana. However, I wonder how it fit into the landscape of Skandeberg Square at a time when statues of Stalin, Lenin and Enver Hoxha stood nearby. It is worth adding that during Hoxha’s dictatorship, Albania was a secular state where any religious practices could result in imprisonment or deportation to a labour camp. What’s more interesting, the Stalin statue was only removed in 1991 during a student demonstration against the socialist regime. Right next to the mosque there’s a huge Bunk’Art 2 nuclear shelter. Inside there’s a museum dedicated to the times of the most radical communist system in Europe, which existed during the rule of Enver Hoxha. The victims of Hoxha’s regime are also commemorated by Post Bllok – a monument located in a representative part of the city on Dëshmorët e Kombit boulevard. Obviously it’s a bunker, which is the most tangible symbol of dictatorship. Another interesting structure that can be seen in the centre of Tirana is the Pyramid. Even though it looks quite modern, appearances can be deceiving. It was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter, in honour of her daddy. It was intended to serve as the dictator’s mausoleum. It survived in this form until the fall of the regime. Currently, it has been renovated and serves as a modern art centre. This spot seems to be a favorite place for tourists as well as residents of Tirana. There is nothing surprising, especially when visiting it at sunset. Tirana also aspires to be a modern European capital. The urban space is diversified with artistic installations, such as “Cloud” made of steel rods. At the end of the visit to Tirana and central Albania, to feel the local atmosphere of the city, it’s worth visiting the New Bazaar (Pazari and Ri). You can buy there local products, antiques and souvenirs, or simply observe the life of the locals.

Artykuł Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana pochodzi z serwisu .

Southern Albania – a ship in a field and a thousand windows

Gosia — Sat, 26 Oct 2024 16:35:38 +0000

I start my exploration of southern Albania in quite an unusual way – with a ship docked far from the sea, right in the middle of fields. This extraordinary sight resembles the Titanic in the Atlantic and is an evidence of the boundless Albanian imagination. Berat – “The City of Thousand Windows” In Berat, I stop for a moment to explore the castle ruins. Although little remains of the castle itself, its walls and the surrounding landscape create an incredible atmosphere. However, this is not the end of the attractions in this town. Berat is called “The City of a Thousand Windows,” and the name seems to fit it perfectly. The distinctive white houses with sloping roofs and large windows look incredibly photogenic. Osumi Canyon Continuing my journey along a picturesque mountain road, I reach Osumi Canyon. The canyon makes an incredible impression from the very beginning. Driving along the Osumi River is a true pleasure. Thanks to the river and the erosion it has caused, you can admire high rock walls reaching up to 100 meters. With 26 kilometers of length, there is no shortage of places to explore. The route is dotted with numerous viewpoints from which you can marvel at this amazing place. A popular attraction here is rafting, which is mainly organized in the spring when the water level is sufficient. Gjirokastёr: The City of a Thousand Stairs In Gjirokastёr, my main goal was to visit a Cold War bunker, as I mentioned earlier. However, the city has much more to offer. Gjirokastёr is known as “The City of a Thousand Stairs”. Additionally, Enver Hoxha, the leader of communist Albania from 1944 to 1985, was born here. While this fact may not be the best advertisement for the city, it holds a significant historical context. I’ve written more about Hoxha’s dictatorship and Albanian bunkers in another post. My first steps took me high up to the medieval fortress. Built in the 12th century and later expanded by the Ottomans, the fortress housed a prison for political prisoners during the Cold War era. From the fortress walls and the clock tower, there’s an incredible view of Gjirokastёr’s old town and the surrounding peaks. Inside the fortress, there’s also the wreckage of an American Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star, which made an emergency landing in Albania in 1957. The story of this mission still sparks controversy – whether it was an accidental flight or a reconnaissance mission. According to the American version, the pilot was flying from the military base at Châteauroux in France to Naples, Italy. Along the way, he got lost in dense fog and deviated from his course. Due to fuel shortage, he made an emergency landing in Albania. However, according to Albanian reports, the pilot was on a reconnaissance flight and was intercepted by Albanian People’s Army pilots, forcing him to land. Which version is true? You decide – this is an objective blog, after all! 😄 Returning to Gjirokastёr, this city is worth visiting not only for its charming old town. While Berat is known as the “City of a Thousand Windows,” Gjirokastёr is dubbed the “City of a Thousand Steps.” The Old Town indeed resembles a labyrinth of narrow and steep streets. For me, Gjirokastёr is particularly memorable for its distinctive architecture featuring white houses with grey roofs. Blue Eye and the Southern Coast On hot days, it’s best to visit the Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye). This spring is named for its resemblance to an eye’s iris. Although swimming is allowed here, few people opt for it due to the water temperature being a chilly 10°C (50°F). Blue Eye is nestled in the mountains, accessible via a short concrete path. Along the way, you can enjoy beautiful views of the mountains and a dam. Warmer waters, on the other hand, are plentiful along the coast. The southern part of Albania is renowned for excellent conditions for sunbathing and water sports. Unfortunately, during the peak season, the beaches are packed to the brim. Among the most popular are Lori, Paradise, and Ksamil beaches. The southern coast of Albania also offers many historical sites and viewpoints. Below is a picture of Sarandë with the Lëkurësi Castle in the background. The scenic mountainous route through Llogara Pass provides an incredible experience. Route SH8 stretches along the coast at over 1000 meters above sea level, connecting the Dukat Valley with the town of Himarë in the south. Traveling this 45-kilometer stretch offers breathtaking views and an unforgettable journey. On one side of the route, you can admire the Ceraunian Mountains, while on the other, spectacular views of the Ionian Sea unfold. On clear days, you can even see the Greek island of Corfu from here. The road through Llogara Pass is renowned as one of the most beautiful in Europe. Along the way, there are numerous viewpoints and hiking trails. Zvërnec: A Tranquil End to the Journey The final stop of the trip is Zvërnec. It is famous for its picturesque bunkers and the Monastery of St. Mary, located near the Narta Lagoon. The monastery is actually situated on a small island accessible via a wooden bridge. Built in the 13th century, its full name is the Monastery of the Dormition of Theotokos Mary. It’s a peaceful place, perfect for concluding a journey full of experiences in southern Albania.

Artykuł Southern Albania – a ship in a field and a thousand windows pochodzi z serwisu .

Albania – bunkers, Girl off the trail

Gosia — Fri, 16 Feb 2024 21:48:50 +0000

Albania is a country of bunkers, there are over 750,000 of them. They were built during the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha to defend the country in the event of an invasion. However, this invasion never occurred… After World War II, Albania was neither incorporated into Yugoslavia nor the Soviet Union. However, it doesn’t mean that it remained a democratic country. In 1946, the People’s Republic of Albania was established here. What’s more interesting, in 1961, Hoxha completely broke off contact with the USSR, and Albania left the Warsaw Pact. Over time, after Mao Zedong’s death, he also put an end to cooperation with the People’s Republic of China. After breaking off international contacts, Albania was actually isolated from the world. All this lasted until 1985 – the death of Enver Hoxha. During his dictatorship, virtually every aspect of Albanian life was under strict state control. All religious practices were forbidden, and it was impossible to travel abroad or own private cars. The extensive system of repression was responsible for the disappearance of over 100,000 people. The Sigurimi special services used methods of intimidation and repression that the NKVD or KGB would not be ashamed of. Concentration camps were also created to imprison people who committed such “crimes” as: comparing domestic products to foreign ones, practicing religion or ridiculing the state apparatus. The death penalty applied to people who tried to flee the country or agitated against the government. Hoxha, haunted by paranoid thoughts about the threat to Albania from the imperialist United States and the social-imperialist Soviet Union, aimed to militarize the civilian population. His crazy concept was based on the so-called Maoist strategy known as People’s War. Many state-owned enterprises participated in one way or another in the state defense system. Citizens were trained to serve in the army from the age of 12. The country’s defence was to be based mainly on the bunkers “assigned” to them. In fact, due to the lack of coordination, the defence system created by Hoxha was chaotic. Underfinancing was also a problem, which manifested itself in the lack of appropriate equipment, fuel or ammunition. It is hard to imagine that bunkers “leased” to the public will constitute an alternative to the regular, professional army. First of all, you need to take into account the possible time it will take to defend such a bunker by a person not fully trained for this purpose without weapons, external supplies, or communication with other bunkers. Moreover, the “bunkerisation program” completely plunged the Albanian economy. The money allocated for bunkers could have been spent more rationally. For the construction of infrastructure, residential buildings and, above all, to improve the living conditions of Albanians, most of whom lived in extreme poverty at that time. Bunkers were built both in strategic places, like coastal defense bunkers and to protect dignitaries as fallout shelters. However, many of them are located in the least expected places, in fields, vineyards or right next to residential buildings. The largest nuclear shelter is located on the outskirts of Tirana. It was built for Hoxha and high-ranking dignitaries. Its dimensions are truly impressive. On five floors and an area of over 3,000 m² there are over 100 rooms intended for offices and rooms. There is also an auditorium, a shop and a cinema hall. Apparently it was decided that it would be necessary to entertain the dignitaries. After all, how long can you sit idly in a shelter during a nuclear attack? 😉 After the dictator’s death, the bunker remained unused for many years. Only recently it was decided to create a museum combined with an art gallery here. It’s called Bunk’art 1. In the rooms you can learn about the history of Albania during World War II. Surprisingly, only a small part of the exhibition is devoted to the times of Hoxha’s post-war dictatorship. The information presented focuses on the positive aspects of his rule, like improving the health service, women’s emancipation, reform of the education system, and electrification of the country. Meanwhile, in the very center of Tirana, right next to Skandenberg Square, there’s another similar facility called Bunk’Art2. It has an area of 1,000 square meters with reinforced concrete walls up to 2.4 meters thick. It was built as part of the project code-named “Objekti Shtylla” in the years 1981 – 1986. It was also intended to serve as a shelter in the event of a nuclear attack mainly for employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Currently, there’s a Bunk’art museum here. 2, in which you can learn about the bloody history of the Hoxha regime. The exhibition mainly presents the history of the persecution of Albanians. Here you can see surveillance methods, an interrogation room and numerous prisoners’ memorabilia. In the period from 1944 to 1991, over 6,000 Albanians were killed. The main methods used were shooting or hanging, and their bodies were never returned to their families. The party did not want to allow the victims’ graves to become a symbol of opposition to the government. Many people died in prisons or labor camps as a result of tortures. The death penalty included 34 crimes: fleeing the country, sabotaging the state, fascist, religious and anti-socialist agitation and propaganda. About 34,000 people were held in prisons and labour camps. In the museum you can learn about 36 types of tortures that were used at that time. Another large nuclear bunker can be seen in the village of Gjirokastër. It’s 800 meters long and has approximately 60 rooms inside. Despite being located practically in the center of the city of Gjirokastër, Hoxha managed to keep it a secret. The bunker has been preserved in its original condition and currently the Cold War Museum I slocated there. This makes the experience of visiting this place more authentic. A walk through the corridors takes you back to the times of the totalitarian regime. You can see original furniture and equipment here. A characteristic type of bunkers found in Albania are coastal protection ones. Presented below, they’re located in the town of Tale, in northern Albania. Coastal defence bunkers can also be seen on the picturesque Cape Rodon, located about 60 km from Tirana. However, in the competition for the best location, the podium would certainly be taken by the bunkers located on a high cliff right next to the town of Zvërnec. Submarine bunkers were also built during the Hoxha dictatorship. This type of facilities can be seen in the seaside town of Shëngjin and in the northern part of the bay of Porto Palermo. The Porto Palermo bunker is basically a submarine tunnel. It’s 12 meters high and 650 meters long. Part of the bunker on the bay side of Porto Palermo still remains in the military area. The second part located on the sea side remains closed, but it is worth going there just for the amazing views of the coast. A completely different structure is the Great Bunker, located on the picturesque Llogara Pass. The bunker consists of a three-floor building, which is currently, to put it mildly, in a state of disrepair. Below the building you can see a concrete tunnel located on the mountainside. The facility was an excellent observation point over the Adriatic Sea. The location of the bunker in this place indicates that Hoxha must have feared an attack also from Italy, which is quite close. However, the biggest surprise were the bunkers located at the Apollonia archaeological site. I won’t hide the fact that I showed complete ignorance of ancient architecture and chose more modern structures. For the first time in my life, I bought tickets to a museum in order to see the bunkers. Instead of admiring the ancient city founded in the 6th century BC, I immediately headed towards the shelters. I guess you’ll agree that it was more interesting here? Like the post about Albania, check out more here.

Artykuł Albania – bunkers, Girl off the trail pochodzi z serwisu .

Albania – north direction

Gosia — Sun, 10 Dec 2023 07:00:14 +0000

Albania has recently become a popular destination. There’re many reasons: beautiful beaches, interesting monuments, good food and even better prices. During my 10-day stay, I managed to visit a large part of this country. I must admit that Albania has enormous potential, which the country seems to have not fully exploited. There is no investment in tourist infrastructure and no waste management. Rubbish seems to be an inherent element of the Albanian landscape. However, the main problem for me was the dramatic condition of the roads, which significantly limited the number of places I could see in such a short time. Despite everything, I believe that Albania is a country worth visiting. First of all, because of its diversity, which is especially visible in the northern part of the country. I started my tour of northern Albania from the castle in Kruja, also known as Skanderbeg’s Citadel. It is a medieval fortress located on a high hill. Kruja is a historical place on the map of Albania and a symbol of the heroic fight against the Ottomans. The city is known mainly because of the figure of Skandenberg – the national hero of Albania. Under his leadership, the fortress withstood the siege of Ottoman troops three times in the 15th century. Ultimately, the Ottomans managed to capture it after his death. The massive structure with a round tower is impressive, but the fortress in its present shape is arises a lot of controversy among Albanians. It was reconstructed according to the design of the daughter of the dictator Enver Hoxha, and apparently its current appearance differs significantly from the original. Inside the fortress there’s a museum dedicated to Skandenberg. Sari Salltik’s Shrine Near the castle in Kruje there’s an interesting religious building dedicated to the Turkish dervish -Sari Salltik, who is said to have brought Islam to the Balkans. This place is located only 7 km from Kruje. A picturesque mountain road unexpectedly ends at the top of the mountain. Right next to the parking lot there’s the entrance to the temple. The small temple is actually located inside a cave. Ther’re quite steep stairs leading to it. The temple consists of a small chapel carved in the rock and a vestibule where you can see the tombs. I didn’t see any tourists there. This place seems to be well – hidden from the mass tourism. This is surprising because the nearby Kruja Castle was literally besieged by tours during my visit. Rozafa Castle Near the town of Shkodër there is another castle known from a rather dramatic legend. Its name – Rozafa comes from the name of a woman who was bricked up alive within its walls. Apparently this was to prevent them from collapsing. The fortress is located on the top of a mountain, where you can see an amazing view of Shkodër. Lake Shkodër Lake Shkodër is the largest inland reservoir in the Balkans. It’s the border area of Montenegro and Albania, while the most part of it is located on the territory of Montenegro. The lake is very popular among tourists due to its picturesque mountain location and the habitat of many bird species. A popular destination for a one-day trip from Shkodër is Lake Koman. Lake Koman is a “side effect” of the construction of three hydroelectric plants on the Drin River. The hydroelectric plants in Koman, Fierza and Vau i Dejës are the largest in Albania and cover most of the electricity demand of the entire country. Even though Lake Koman was artificially created, it delights with its wild character. What’s more interesting, there are practically no tourists here. This is probably related to the lack of tourist facilities, not to mention the poor quality of roads. The asphalt on the route from Shkodra seems to be a distant memory. What is also disappointing is the large amount of garbage floating on the lake, which definitely spoils the overall impression of this place. I cannot understand the Albanians’ approach to these issues, especially in a place with such great tourist potential. Albania – paths One of the most picturesque places in northern Albania is the town of Teth and the Thethit National Park. Even though Teth is only 75 km from Shkodër, it takes 2 hours to get there. However, the long journey is compensated by the beautiful mountain landscapes. The town of Teth seems to be almost at the edge of the world, and it actually looks that way. This is an excellent starting point for hiking in the area. One of the most interesting routes is the trail leading to the Blue Eye – a crystal clear mountain lake. This place is especially visited by crowds in the summer, both by locals and tourists. In addition to bathing in cold water, an additional attraction is watching jumpers jumping into the water from a wooden footbridge. The path to the lake is moderately demanding and it’s itself an attraction of this trip. Another argument that it’s not the destination, but the journey that matters, is the trail to the Grunas waterfall. The 30-meter-high waterfall looks amazing, especially in the afternoon when the sun rays create a beautiful rainbow on it. However, in my opinion, the Grunasit Canyon is much more impressive. The canyon is 2 km long and 60 meters deep. There’s a small bridge suspended between the rocks, where you can cross the canyon. Apparently this is the narrowest part of the canyon, because its walls are almost at your fingertips. On the way back to Teth, in addition to the amazing views, you can also see the isolation tower – Kulla e Negujimit. Such towers were once a kind of refuge for people seeking shelter from bloody ancestral revenge. It’s just a small part of the amazing places I visited in Albania. Find out more here!

Artykuł Albania – north direction pochodzi z serwisu .