bunker -

Auckland, Devonport – the fort that never fired… and the fake news that built it

Gosia — Sun, 12 Apr 2026 16:44:26 +0000

It takes barely a few minutes to ride a ferry from central Auckland to Devonport – a place that seems to exist in a completely different reality. Devonport lies between two extinct volcanoes that not only shaped its history but also perfectly symbolise it. At first glance, it looks like a calm, almost sleepy Auckland suburb: wooden houses, cafés, restaurants, kids fishing in the bay with Auckland’s skyscrapers in the background… but that’s just the surface. Beneath it lies a turbulent past that once made Devonport one of the most strategic locations in the region. Right next to the ferry terminal rises Mount Victoria, an 87-metre volcanic cone. It may not sound impressive in terms of height, but the view from the top certainly is. The strategic importance of this spot was recognised long ago. First, Māori built their pā (fortifications) here to control access to the harbour. Later, the British followed suit. In 1885, four three-ton guns were installed, and in 1898 a massive 8-inch Armstrong Elswick gun was placed on the summit on a so-called disappearing carriage. Thanks to a hydraulic platform, the barrel could retract into a concrete pit after each shot, protecting the crew from counterfire. The gun was fired only once – launching a shell weighing around 95 kg over a distance of 8 km. The reason it was never used again? Shattered windows and a very effective local residents’ protest. Today, the gun can still be seen on Mount Victoria in its original condition. Nearby stood Fort Victoria, complete with a magazine, shelter and observation post, connected by telephone to other coastal defence fortifications. One of the bunkers now serves as a concert venue for a local band. Mount Victoria is just the beginning. The real heavy artillery of Devonport can be found on the second extinct volcano, North Head (Maungauika). The climb alone explains why this spot was chosen for defence – the 360-degree views are spectacular. The fort on North Head, built in the late 19th century, was never used in combat. It was constructed as a result of… a fake news story from 1873. Reports of a Russian warship, the Kaskowiski, allegedly landing hundreds of soldiers in Waitematā Harbour caused widespread panic and exposed serious weaknesses in New Zealand’s coastal defences. The response was a new fort, complete with disappearing guns, tunnels and bunkers. The defence system consisted of three artillery batteries: North Battery, aimed at the Rangitoto Channel; South Battery, guarding the inner harbour; and Summit (Cautley) Battery on the top of the hill. Walking around North Head, you can still see gun emplacements, observation posts with mural-covered walls, and wooden barracks from 1885, connected by tunnels to the Summit Battery. Nearby, it’s worth visiting the Torpedo Bay Naval Museum, which explores the history of the Royal New Zealand Navy. The location itself is historically significant, as the site once formed part of Auckland’s defence system. The museum boasts one of the largest naval history collections in New Zealand. Admission details and current prices can be found on the museum’s website. Devonport – practical information Ferries between Auckland and Devonport run regularly, with a crossing time of around 10 minutes. Services depart from Pier 1, Ferry Terminal at 99 Quay St, with roughly 30 sailings throughout the day. The easiest way to pay is with an AT HOP card or contactless payment (credit or debit card, Apple Pay, Google Pay or Samsung Pay). When boarding and exiting, remember to “tag on” and “tag off” using the same card or device. Paper tickets can also be purchased from ticket machines or at the customer service centre. Up-to-date fares and timetables are available on the Auckland Transport (Ferry Terminal – Downtown ↔ Devonport).

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Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana

Gosia — Sun, 21 Sep 2025 11:36:55 +0000

I started the route towards central Albania in the town of Teth. The first point of my trip was Cape Rodon, also known as the Cape of Skanderbeg. This is definitely a place you must visit while being in Albania. Actually, I could point out three reasons why it’s worth coming here. The first are bunkers, which I wrote about here. The second one is the castle built by Skandenberg in 1452, to defend against the Ottoman Empire. Although it was a hiding place for Skandeberg for a while during the siege of Kruja in 1466, it was destroyed by the Turks only a year later. Currently, only the remains of the former fortress can be seen here. Unfortunately part of it was swallowed by the sea. However, the last and probably the most important reason why this place is at the top of the attractions list are the amazing views. An amazing panorama of Tirana and the surrounding area can be admired from Mount Dajti, located to the east of the capital of Albania. You can reach the peak by car, on foot or by the Dajti Express gondola lift. Following the coast southwards, I reached Durrës – one of the oldest cities in Albania. Durrës is currently the second largest city in Albania, after Tirana. Currently, it’s mainly a tourist resort with all the advantages and disadvantages of this type of place. Durrës was founded by the Greeks in 625 BC, and then during the times of the Roman Empire it was an important trading center. Moreover, in the years 1913-1920 it was the capital of Albania. In the city center there’s a Roman Amphitheater, which is one of the largest facilities of this type in Western Balkans. Apparently, in its heyday, when gladiator fights took place here, it could accommodate up to 20,000 viewers. In the mid-4th century, it was partially destroyed by an earthquake. From Ottoman times it remained buried and forgotten for many years. Only in 1996 was it accidentally discovered during earthworks. Currently, the amphitheater, surrounded by urban buildings, looks quite strange. It would seem that nothing has changed here since the archaeological works. It is completely neglected and littered. Unfortunately, this perfectly illustrates the basic problem of Albania, the lack of use of its tourist potential. Near the amphitheater there are the ruins of the Byzantine Forum and the rotunda. They were built around the 5th century and were an important trading and decision-making centre of the city. Unfortunately, as you can see in the attached picture, they suffer the same fate as the amphitheater. The most surprising thing is that both archaeological sites are located right next to the main square of Durres – Sheshi Liria. The Grand Mosque is also located next to the square. It was built in 1931 and was the largest mosque in Albania at that time. During Hoxha’s dictatorship, the minaret was demolished and the mosque itself remained closed. Both the square and the mosque look modern and seem to have been recently renovated. Meanwhile, nearby monuments of great historical value remain neglected. Actually, while walking around Durrës, I had the impression that this city had a problem with its own identity. Modern buildings mix here with typical socialist housing estates and abandoned places. Apparently that’s its charm 😉 The rest of Durres is typical tourist folklore, with all the kitsch of seaside towns. A sandy beach, a large selection of accommodation, restaurants and other attractions attract many tourists here. Personally, I’m not a fan of this type of places, but I still think it’s worth coming here, even for the amazing view of the sunset from the promenade. From Durres, I decided to go to the capital of Albania – Tirana. Tirana is quite a compact city and I think that one day is certainly enough to visit it. The central point of Tirana is Skandenberg Square with the monument to Skandenberg – the national hero who repelled the attacks of the Turks. Near the square is the Ethema Bey Mosque. The mosque is said to be the oldest structure in Tirana. However, I wonder how it fit into the landscape of Skandeberg Square at a time when statues of Stalin, Lenin and Enver Hoxha stood nearby. It is worth adding that during Hoxha’s dictatorship, Albania was a secular state where any religious practices could result in imprisonment or deportation to a labour camp. What’s more interesting, the Stalin statue was only removed in 1991 during a student demonstration against the socialist regime. Right next to the mosque there’s a huge Bunk’Art 2 nuclear shelter. Inside there’s a museum dedicated to the times of the most radical communist system in Europe, which existed during the rule of Enver Hoxha. The victims of Hoxha’s regime are also commemorated by Post Bllok – a monument located in a representative part of the city on Dëshmorët e Kombit boulevard. Obviously it’s a bunker, which is the most tangible symbol of dictatorship. Another interesting structure that can be seen in the centre of Tirana is the Pyramid. Even though it looks quite modern, appearances can be deceiving. It was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter, in honour of her daddy. It was intended to serve as the dictator’s mausoleum. It survived in this form until the fall of the regime. Currently, it has been renovated and serves as a modern art centre. This spot seems to be a favorite place for tourists as well as residents of Tirana. There is nothing surprising, especially when visiting it at sunset. Tirana also aspires to be a modern European capital. The urban space is diversified with artistic installations, such as “Cloud” made of steel rods. At the end of the visit to Tirana and central Albania, to feel the local atmosphere of the city, it’s worth visiting the New Bazaar (Pazari and Ri). You can buy there local products, antiques and souvenirs, or simply observe the life of the locals.

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Malta – The Fortress Island, Girl on the urbex trail!

Gosia — Sun, 06 Apr 2025 13:02:28 +0000

Malta is called the “Fortress Island.” At first glance, it’s evident that the island’s architecture has a defensive character. High fortifications, citadels, and forts are reminiscent of the times of the Knights of Malta as well as the British era. Throughout its history, Malta was under the rule of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Crusaders, French, and British. Finally, it became an independent country only in 1964. Today, we can see numerous traces from the times of the Knights of Malta, as well as from the period of World War II. The Knights of Malta gained control over Malta in 1530 from Charles V of Spain. From that time, for the next 275 years, the island was under their rules. Many fortifications from this period were built to protect Malta from the Ottoman Empire. In 1565, they fulfilled their purpose, as Turkish forces unsuccessfully tried to capture the island for over three months. Many of these impressive fortifications can be admired today. Indeed, Valetta, seen from the sea, truly looks like a fortress city. During World War II, Malta was one of the most bombed countries in Europe. Due to its strategic location near Sicily, it was the target of continuous attacks by the Germans and Italians. Meanwhile, the British used the island to launch attacks on the Italian navy. In 1943, the Allies began their invasion of Sicily from Malta. This invasion was coordinated from the Lascaris War Rooms in Valetta. There was also a listening post here that intercepted German radio communications. Due to the numerous bomb attacks, Malta has many air-raid shelters. Some of the most interesting ones can be found in Mellieħa, Mosta, and Victoria on the island of Gozo. An interesting site is the fortification system built by the British in the late 19th century, known as the Victoria Lines. These fortifications were intended to protect the northern part of the island from potential attacks, but they were reportedly never used. The Victoria Lines stretch for 12 kilometers and are open for exploration. Some parts of the trail have been destroyed, so it’s best to visit the section known as the Dwejra Lines. This is the best-preserved section of the Victoria Lines. Moreover, the Dwejra Lines are also referred to as the Great Wall of Malta, and from a distance, this structure looks very impressive. The Dwejra Lines are located right next to the Our Lady of Hodegetria Chapel. Adjacent to the Victoria Lines is an old apiary, which adds to the attractions. Although the origin of the word “Malta” is not fully proven, it’s suspected to derive from the Greek word “Melite,” meaning honey-sweet. Malta was renowned for its unique honey produced by a distinct species of bees found only on the island. Some argue that some of these apiaries may date back to the times of Carthage and ancient Rome. It’s possible that these apiaries served different purposes in later periods. Carved into limestone rocks, they could have been used as catacombs or shelters during World War II. Another interesting structure built by the British before World War II is Fort Campbell, also known as Fortizza ta’ Selmun. The fort is located north of the Victoria Lines and was intended to protect Mellieħa Bay and St. Paul’s Bay. On the island of Malta, you can observe many pillbox bunkers scattered along the coastline. Each of these bunkers was equipped with firing positions and had an observation tower on top. Inside, they could accommodate about six soldiers. Some of them are located in very picturesque settings, such as the one near the town of Marsaskala. Next to it is the Riħama Battery. It was built by the Knights of Malta between 1714 and 1716. It formed part of a series of coastal fortifications around Malta’s shores and served to defend St. Thomas Bay. Today, a fairly large building stands on the site, which was once among the largest constructions of its kind in Malta. Inside, visitors can explore three rooms – the central one being the largest with an interesting arched ceiling, while the other two were smaller and supposedly used as storage for food and weapons. The battery saw action only once during Napoleon’s invasion of Malta in 1798. It ceased to be used in the 1820s and unfortunately has since fallen into ruin. However, abandoned places in Malta are not limited solely to military facilities. Malta is a popular holiday destination, but not all hotels are open to tourists. Some of them may not offer a luxurious stay, but they certainly provide a bit of adventure. One such place is the Jerma Hotel near Marsascala. It used to be a luxurious four-star resort built by the Libyan State Company Lafico. Due to this association, one of the hotel’s distinguished guests was Muammar Gaddafi, who had a presidential suite there. The Libyan dictator, Muammar Gaddafi, once maintained good relations with Maltese Prime Minister Dom Mintoff. The hotel ceased operations in 2007, but the exact reasons for its closure remain unclear. Near Mellieħa, there’s an abandoned tourist village called the Festaval Hotel, often mistakenly referred to as Festiwal. The facility was built in 1980 and operated for only about 12 years. Judging by its architecture, the hotel must have been exclusive. The apartments are spacious, and the view from the terraces overlooking Mellieħa Bay is stunning. Guests also had access to two pools. In 2018, there were plans to demolish it and build twelve luxury apartments with pools and a spa, but this project was never realized. On the island of Gozo, near Ramla Bay, there’s another abandoned resort complex called Ulysses Lodge. While the building itself may no longer be impressive, it offers an incredible view of one of the most beautiful beaches on Gozo. In the northern part of Gozo, there’s another interesting site, the Qolla l-Bajda Battery. This battery was built by the Knights of Malta between 1715 and 1716 as part of the coastal fortifications. It is also the northernmost structure of its kind. Currently, the site is in a state of disrepair, and one can hardly find any trace of its former architecture. The interior of the building looks as though it once served as a bar or nightclub before its closure. An additional attraction in the area is the salt pans, about which I wrote here. Near St. Julian’s, there’s an abandoned settlement known as White Rocks. It was built in 1960 for British soldiers stationed on the island. After the British forces left Malta, the settlement was converted into a holiday complex. On a vast area located right on the coast, you can see many buildings adorned with interesting murals. In the end, a real gem: an abandoned Subaru showroom, closed in the late 90s. Inside, you can see many vintage cars. They look like new; if you just pumped up the tires and charged the battery, I think you could go for a ride. The Fuji logo adds to the atmosphere of the place. Furthermore, the showroom is located in the center of the tourist town of Mosta.

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Mysterious Objects in Brzeznica Kolonia – a Nuclear Inferno in Poland?

Gosia — Sun, 28 Jul 2024 12:07:06 +0000

The forest in Brzeznica-Kolonia at first glance seems to be a peaceful place, ideal for trips and relaxation in nature. However, few people realise that it hides a dark secret from the Cold War era. At that time, the existence of this place was a closely guarded secret, as there was a Soviet military base located here. Under the agreement signed in 1967 between the USSR and the Polish People’s Republic, three nuclear weapon storage facilities were built in Poland. These facilities were constructed as part of a program code-named “the Vistula” which aimed to use tactical nuclear weapons in the event of an attack by NATO countries. The bunkers were built by Poles based on Soviet plans and using materials provided by the Soviet Union. After the construction was completed, the facilities were taken over by the Soviets and maintained in strict secrecy until the 1990s. The first of these was located near Podborsko (facility 3001), the next in Brzeznica Kolonia (facility 3002), and the last in Templewo (facility 3003). In addition to these three bases, a nuclear warhead storage facility was also located in Bagicz and Szprotawa-Wiechlice, while temporary storage facilities were situated in Chojna and Pstraże (Strachów). The three main bases in Podborsko, Brzeznica, and Templewo were built according to the same design. Each facility could accommodate between 200 and nearly 300 nuclear warheads, with estimated storage ranging from 0.5 to 500 kilotons. For comparison, the bomb dropped on Hiroshima had a yield of 15 kilotons. One can imagine what this means… In the event of an attack on NATO countries, Poland would become a nuclear inferno in retaliation. Each of the three bases had two identical underground nuclear weapon storage bunkers of the T-7 “MONOLIT” type, with a volume of 3,000 m³. These bunkers can still be seen in Brzeznica today. When the base was operational, the bunkers were accessed through two main entrances, secured by armored doors. Additionally, there were loading ramps located near the bunkers. Theoretically, exploration of the bunkers is currently prohibited. A yellow sign warns that entering the facility poses a risk of death or serious injury. In reality, those who decide to visit must exercise extreme caution. A good flashlight is essential, as there’s a drop of about 4 meters just beyond the vestibule. The site is now completely looted, initially by the Russians, who took everything they could while leaving the base. Subsequently, scrap metal scavengers finished the job. It’s futile to look for any metal elements at the site. On the floor of each bunker, you can see the remains of clamps that were used to secure carts transporting the warheads, which prevented accidental collisions. In the 1970s, an additional tunnel bunker of the Granit type was built, which was used to store a mobile missile launcher. The storage facility in Brzeznica Kolonia was located deep within the forest, well camouflaged and heavily guarded. In fact, until the early 1990s, the existence of the base was kept strictly confidential. The base was self-sufficient and even featured a small town within its complex. There was a hospital, a shop, and a cinema operating on-site. It’s important to note that unlike other military units, service in Brzeznica lasted significantly longer. Limited specialist resources made frequent personnel rotations impossible. To ensure comfort for the staff, a semblance of normal life was created here. This decision had a positive impact on the mental health of the personnel, who, in fact had daily involvement with weapons of mass destruction. Unfortunately, little remains of the former base today. Besides the three bunkers, there are only remnants of guard posts and numerous trenches. Only in the Podborsko area you can visit a museum located in the former storage facility.

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9 and a half reason to visit Gothenburg

Gosia — Mon, 28 Mar 2016 08:10:41 +0000

Islands, islets and red houses So the Southern Archipelago in the flesh. Hop on a ferry and admire a typical Swedish countryside. Islands like: Asperö, Donsö, Styrsö, Vrangö and Brännö, surprise by their gaunt landscape as well as typical Swedish wooden red buildings. It doesn’t matter which direction you choose, the last letter ö in the name is essential 😉 2. Take a walk along the dock It’s worth taking a short walk along the dock, where you can visit floating museum. 3. Have a rest in the shade of palms Palm House, located in the strict city center is a cultish meeting place. Certainly there’re a lot of reasons why, but the most important is that every palm in the severe Swedish climate is at a premium. 4. How about fika in the atmospheric Haga? Haga in short can be described by cobbled streets, pastel, wooden houses, atmospheric cafes and antique little shops. Here in the center of a the city, you can feel a typical atmosphere from 19th century and buy unique souvenirs. After shopping spree, take a coffee break called fika in Swedish. Nothing tastes so good with coffee like kannelbullar – cinnamon bun. Taste it in the famous Café Husaren, for sure you’ll be surprised… 5. Change the perspective From the sea level climb the Skansen Kronan – rock stronghold from 17th century and admire beautiful Gothenburg panorama. 6. Red lisptick It’s actually called Lilla Bommen. It’s the most characteristic point in Gothenburg. It’s a skyscraper, which doesn’t resemble anything but Swedish called it red lipstick. 7.Drop into a bunker Visit the Aeroseum – the former secret military base from the Cold War times. It’s located close to the former Gothenburg airport, carved in a granite rock, several meters below the ground. Feel like a fighter pilot, seating behind the wheel and test yourself in the flight simulator. 8. How about a trip along Gothenburg canals? Gothenburg is crisscrossed with canals which match perfectly with the rest of the city. 9. Fish only in the church Where to go to eat a good fish in Gothenburg? Of course, to the Feskekôrka – fish church. It’s the biggest fish market in the city and called a church in view of its characteristic gothic façade. Although, the interior is much different than typical sacral one, the visit in this place will be for sure a spiritual experience for the fish lovers. 9 and a half reason for Surströmming Surströmming is a famous Swedish fermented herring. You can buy it in supermarkets but it’s possible that you’ll have to ask for it the shop assistant (they’re usually stored in the storage room). We paid for this delicacy around 10€. Was it worth it? Well, to cut the long story short, if you want to break out of your comfort zone… don’t hesitate, just do it! How does it smell? Maybe, let us present it graphically, imagine the long-term process of fermentation of the herring which is later put into the tin for further fermentation… The scale of this process is such a big that the tin has a typically convex bottom. The taste is the same as the smell, I would rather not describe it in detail. But, to make matters worse, when you want to forget about this traumatic experience, after eating it, the awful smell of your own breath accompanies you for at least a few hours (much to the delight of other passengers travelling with you by public transport – we’ve checked it). If you happen to like this delicacy, do not even think to transport it by a plane. The change of the air pressure may lead to explosion of the tin and the “marvelous herring aroma” guarantees emergency landing! Mind that even the process of opening it, pose a real challenge. Before all, in view of the possibility of the explosion and the terrible smell, never do it at home. According to the “safety procedure”, it should be done outside, preferably in the basin filled with water. ” order_by=”sortorder” order_direction=”ASC” returns=”included” maximum_entity_count=”500″]

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