Europe -

Belgrade – from a Roman fortress to Yugoslavia’s vision of the future

Gosia — Sun, 13 Sep 2026 11:50:11 +0000

After my first day of sightseeing and a hefty dose of history, which was genuinely quite heavy at times, it was time to move on and see a different side of Belgrade. This time, I headed straight for Kalemegdan – the place that probably more than anywhere else is associated with the city. And this is definitely a place where you can pause for a moment, because the history here is seriously something else. The first fortifications appeared here as far back as Celtic times, and the Romans later left their mark on the site. Over the centuries, the fortress was rebuilt and reshaped by one empire after another, so today it’s a real historical melting pot – Roman remains, Ottoman tombs, Orthodox churches, old gates, fortifications and layer upon layer of the city’s history. The fortress itself sits on a hill offering fantastic views of the point where the Sava meets the Danube. And I think that view alone is one of the reasons why it’s worth coming here, even if history isn’t exactly your cup of tea. 😉 On top of that, there’s a huge park, plenty of paths, benches, and people out walking or simply relaxing – it’s the kind of place where you can easily spend a few hours without having any particular plan. The following day, I decided to see a completely different side of Belgrade. One thing that particularly caught my attention in the city was the futuristic architecture from the Yugoslav era. And Belgrade definitely has plenty to show off in that topic. One of the most distinctive examples is the Eastern City Gate of Belgrade, three enormous residential towers known as Rudo. From a distance, they look a bit like three giant concrete pyramids. Each one has 28 floors and stands almost 100 metres tall. This is exactly the kind of architecture you either fall in love with or look at and think, what on earth were they smoking? 😂 I’m definitely in the first camp. The buildings were constructed in the 1970s, at a time when Yugoslav modernism had ambitions of creating cities of the future. Today, they’ve clearly seen better days, but somehow that makes them even more impressive. On one side, there’s the monumental vision of socialist Yugoslavia; on the other, the reality of the present day, with concrete that has definitely seen better times. But the architectural monsters don’t end there. On the other side of the city stands the so-called Western City Gate of Belgrade, better known as the famous Genex Tower. And here, it’s genuinely hard not to think you’ve stumbled into some seriously wild vision of the future. Two interconnected towers form a huge concrete structure topped with a distinctive circular crown, which once housed a revolving restaurant. The building was completed in the late 1970s and was intended to serve as a symbolic gateway to Belgrade. After all that concrete, I decided I probably needed to see something a little more picturesque. 😂 So I headed to Zemun. Historically, it was a separate town and was only incorporated into Belgrade in 1934. Even today, though, it has a completely different character. Instead of Yugoslav concrete, you’ll find low-rise buildings, cobbled streets, cosy restaurants and a riverside promenade along the Danube. Towering over Zemun is Gardoš Tower, one of the best viewpoints in this part of the city. It stands 36 metres high and was built in the late 19th century. You can climb to the top via the original old staircase, and from the viewing terrace you get views across Zemun, the Danube and a good chunk of Belgrade. I left the Church of Saint Sava until the end. It’s one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, and a building that looks monumental from a distance but is even more impressive up close. Its history is every bit as complicated as that of the city itself. It stands on the site where, according to tradition, the Ottomans burned the relics of Saint Sava in the 16th century. Construction of the present church finally began in 1935, but was interrupted first by the Second World War and later by the communist period. Work resumed many years later and was only formally completed in the 21st century. However, you can’t spend all day sightseeing, and after several hours of walking around Belgrade, it was time for something a little more down to earth – food. After all, I hadn’t come to Serbia just to look at old buildings. I had to find out what Serbian cuisine was all about. I ended up at Restoran Mesara Mandić, and I can definitely recommend it. It’s one of those places where what’s on your plate matters far more than fancy interiors. There’s a butcher’s shop downstairs, so the meat on my plate had a pretty short journey to make. 😉 I ordered pljeskavica, and it was seriously good – juicy, well-seasoned and exactly what I’d hoped for from a proper Serbian grill. If you’re after a decent portion of meat, this place is well worth a visit. It might not be the most Instagrammable spot in Belgrade, but who needs Instagram when the pljeskavica does all the talking? The dish cost 890 Serbian dinars, which works out at roughly £6.50 / €7.60. After a full day of walking around Belgrade, taking in ruins, futuristic towers, traces of war, old Zemun and the fortress, I felt as though I’d seen several completely different cities – and yet somehow, it was all still the same Belgrade. And I think that’s exactly what I found most captivating about it, the sheer diversity of it all.

Artykuł Belgrade – from a Roman fortress to Yugoslavia’s vision of the future pochodzi z serwisu .

Belgrade – a city of contrasts, history and Balkan chaos

Gosia — Sun, 06 Sep 2026 16:29:16 +0000

Belgrade was the second stop on my longer holiday trip this year. I spent the first part in Scotland, where I covered more than 3,200 km in nine days. And, to be completely honest, by then I’d had enough of driving, sightseeing, packing, unpacking and constantly being on the move. After such a marathon, the thought of clocking up even more kilometres in Serbia wasn’t exactly something I was looking forward to. But hey, it was part of the holiday plan, so there was nothing for it but to keep going. I flew to Belgrade in the late afternoon, picked up the car, drove to my accommodation and… promptly went on strike when it came to driving any further. Instead, I decided to walk to the city centre. And that’s when I discovered a very pleasant surprise – since 2025, public transport in Belgrade has been completely free. Buses, trams and trolleybuses – you simply hop on and off. To me, that sounded like perfect plan, especially after several thousand kilometres behind the wheel. Belgrade very quickly showed me that it’s quite an unusual city. The Serbian capital has a history stretching back thousands of years, has had 15 different names, Roman roots, Ottoman influences, Yugoslav modernism, war ruins, underground bunkers, Orthodox churches, kafanas, urbex and one of the most distinctive nightlife scenes in Europe. I wouldn’t rule out coming back here for a weekend of partying sometime soon 😉 Especially as I like cities like this – a bit beautiful, a bit chaotic, a bit rough around the edges, but above all, full of character. The first place I reached was Tašmajdan Park. And this is where Belgrade immediately showed me a much less touristy and considerably more tragic side of the city. The park is home to the “We Were Just Children” memorial, dedicated to the 89 children who were killed during NATO’s bombing of Yugoslavia in 1999. At the centre of the monument is three-year-old Milica Rakić, who was fatally wounded by shrapnel in her home on 17 April 1999. In front of the memorial stands a simple stone plaque bearing the words: “We were just children.” And I think it’s precisely that simplicity that makes the biggest impact. No grand words, no unnecessary pathos. From Tašmajdan, I continued towards St Mark’s Church. This huge, distinctive red-brick church stands practically in the heart of the city and is one of the most recognisable landmarks in this part of Belgrade. A few minutes later, I found myself outside the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia. And once again, history here quite literally spills out onto the streets. The building itself dates back to the beginning of the 20th century, but construction dragged on for several decades and it was finally completed in 1936. Over the years, it housed the parliament of Yugoslavia, later the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro, and today, the National Assembly of Serbia. But it’s not the architecture itself that makes this place so interesting. On 5 October 2000, some of the most important events in Serbia’s modern history unfolded right here. Hundreds of thousands of people took to the streets, demanding the removal of Slobodan Milošević. Protesters stormed the building, which was partially set on fire and looted. One of the defining slogans shouted by the demonstrators was “He is finished.” It became a powerful symbol of the revolution and marked one of the key moments in bringing the Milošević era to an end. The next stop was definitely a heavier one. On the corner of Kneza Miloša and Nemanjina, stand the ruins of the former Ministry of Defence of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, which was bombed during the NATO air strikes in 1999. And this isn’t some subtle reminder of history. It’s a huge, gaping ruin with empty windows, standing practically in the middle of the city. The building was designed in the 1950s by architect Nikola Dobrović. Its distinctive, sweeping form was inspired by the landscape of the Battle of the Sutjeska, one of the major battles of the Second World War. It was hit several times during the bombing. Interestingly, its destruction was largely symbolic – the most important command functions had already been moved to a safer location. Today, the ruins remain untouched. And I think that’s precisely why they have such an impact. Belgrade certainly isn’t trying to sweep this part of its history under the carpet. The ruins are a very physical reminder of war, right in the middle of the modern city. Unfortunately, taking photographs of the building is prohibited, and the site is very closely monitored. So I wasn’t particularly keen on testing just how efficient the local authorities are. I then headed towards a more postcard-perfect side of Belgrade. At Terazije Square, I came across the Hotel Moskva, one of the city’s most distinctive buildings. Its richly decorated Art Nouveau façade, red carpet at the entrance and history stretching back to the beginning of the 20th century make it hard to miss. Among its famous guests over the years were Albert Einstein and Alfred Hitchcock. Right next to it stands the Albanija Palace, which may not look particularly spectacular today, but it has its own place in Belgrade’s history. Built in the 1930s, it was the city’s first skyscraper and for many years was one of the capital’s most recognisable landmarks. Nearby is Republic Square, one of those places where you can simply stop for a moment and watch Belgrade life. People heading in every direction, cafés, shops, street musicians and the constant buzz of the city. Since I was already in this part of the city, I couldn’t miss Skadarlija. It’s one of the most atmospheric streets in Belgrade – cobbled, lined with restaurants, kafanas, music and distinctive old townhouses. It was once a favourite meeting place for artists, poets, actors and all sorts of bohemian characters. These days, it’s obviously much more touristy, but it still retains that unmistakable Balkan atmosphere. There was one more little surprise waiting for me here, particularly interesting for anyone who has previously been to Sarajevo. Around Skadarlija, you can actually find… a Belgrade copy of Sarajevo’s Sebilj. If you’ve been to Sarajevo, you’ll probably recognise the distinctive Ottoman-style fountain standing in Baščaršija. The one in Belgrade looks almost identical and was presented to the city by Sarajevo in 1989. Quite a symbolic gesture, especially when you consider what happened in the history of the two countries afterwards… I then headed to the place that probably sums up this whole Balkan melting pot better than anywhere else – Kalemegdan Fortress. But I’ll save that for the next post, because that’s where Belgrade’s history gets seriously heavy… and the views aren’t bad either. 😉

Artykuł Belgrade – a city of contrasts, history and Balkan chaos pochodzi z serwisu .

NC500 – far North Scotland

Gosia — Sun, 30 Aug 2026 15:31:49 +0000

The NC500, or The North Coast 500, is one of Scotland’s most famous road trips – around 830 kilometres through the northern Highlands, following the coastline and winding through mountains, small villages, beaches, cliffs and places where it’s sometimes hard to believe you’re still in the UK. The more miles I covered along this road, the more I felt as though Scotland was slowly disconnecting from the rest of the world. The landscape became increasingly rugged, wild and empty. Larger towns disappeared, the roads grew narrower, and instead of more buildings, there were cliffs, heather-covered moorland, mountains and sea. And that was when the part of the route I had been looking forward to most really began. The northern coast of Scotland – with castle ruins perched above sheer drops, lighthouses, rocky sea stacks, caves and beaches that looked as though they had been transported from a completely different country. Itinerary

Artykuł NC500 – far North Scotland pochodzi z serwisu .

Rangsdorf Airport – from Operation Valkyrie to Operation Urbex

Gosia — Sun, 26 Oct 2025 11:00:38 +0000

Rangsdorf Airport, opened on 30th July 1936, just before the Summer Olympics in Berlin, was initially intended to serve passengers arriving for the Olympics. It was a small airport with a grass runway, primarily meant for sport and recreational flights. However, its history quickly took unexpected turns. Wartime Fate of Rangsdorf Airport After the outbreak of World War II, from October 1939 to March 1940, Rangsdorf became Berlin’s main airport. Authorities feared that Tempelhof Airport would be a major target for bombing raids. Ultimately, Tempelhof resumed its function, and Rangsdorf was converted into a military facility used by the Luftwaffe. From 1939 to 1945, the Bücker Flugzeugbau plant operated here, producing aircraft parts. In 1940, the airport was expanded. A new hangar, Einfliegerhalle, was built because the original 1935 hangar burned down in a tragic accident. A trainee pilot crashed into the hangar filled with other aircraft, causing the fuel tanks to explode. Another factory hall, Sonderbauhalle, was constructed in early 1940 and was reportedly used for building and testing secret designs. Operation Valkyrie Rangsdorf Airport also played a significant role in one of the most important attempts to assassinate Adolf Hitler. On July 20, 1944, around 7 a.m., Claus von Stauffenberg and Werner von Haeften departed from here to Rastenburg for a meeting at the Wolf’s Lair with the intention of assassinating Hitler. After placing the bomb, Stauffenberg left the meeting, returning to Rangsdorf at 3:45 p.m. Believing the assassination had succeeded, he ordered the start of Operation Valkyrie. Unfortunately, Hitler survived, and Stauffenberg and von Haeften were shot soon after returning. Post-War History and Decline Just before the end of the war, the Bücker plant ceased production. Aircraft parts and machinery were taken over by the Red Army and transported, along with dismantled buildings, to the Soviet Union. During the Cold War, the site housed repair facilities for piston and later jet engines. In 1985, a communication bunker was built on the airport grounds, remnants of which, including old equipment and newspapers, can still be seen today. After the Russians left on July 21, 1994, the airport was left with remains of aircraft, rockets, and military equipment. Urbex and New Plans Since 1994, Rangsdorf Airport has been abandoned, with the buildings gradually falling into ruin. Nature has steadily taken over the old hangars, which now resemble an interesting botanical garden. Despite being listed as a historical monument, the site is neglected and deteriorating. Since 2018, the airport has had a new owner who plans to transform the area into a residential complex. Rangsdorf Airport, with its rich and turbulent history, is an extraordinary place that has witnessed many changes and events. Its future seems to depend on new urban development plans, which I hope will preserve this historic site.

Artykuł Rangsdorf Airport – from Operation Valkyrie to Operation Urbex pochodzi z serwisu .

Trieste and the Giant Cave: a Mountain of Steps, a Sea of Experiences

Gosia — Sun, 05 Oct 2025 16:39:23 +0000

Grotta Gigante is one of those places that sticks in the memory. Initially, I hadn’t planned to visit it, but I stumbled across it on a map and… well, who could resist a cave proudly calling itself “the largest tourist cave in the world”? There was just one problem: officially, I wasn’t supposed to leave Slovenia. When I rented the car, I declared I wouldn’t cross the border, but plans are made to be changed. Foolish and risky as it was, I decided to follow my heart—and take full responsibility if anything went wrong with the car. The result? Every step down into this cave was completely worth it. Grotta Gigante has been open to tourists since 1908 and held the title of the largest show cave for decades. Its dimensions are impressive: 98.5 metres high, 167.6 metres long, and 76.3 metres wide, giving a volume of 365,000 cubic metres. Sure, it may no longer hold the record, but that doesn’t change the fact that it’s an absolute must-visit. Although the cave is enormous, it doesn’t boast as many stalactites and stalagmites as some of the nearby Slovenian caves. The real star is the “Colonna Ruggero” – Roger’s Column – a 12-metre-high stalagmite estimated to be around 200,000 years old. In other words, when Roger was forming, humans hadn’t even discovered fire yet. Some formations are white from calcium carbonate—a sign they’re still growing. Growth rate? About 1 mm every 15–20 years. So, if you’re thinking of coming back to check “how much it’s grown,” don’t hold your breath. Tours are guided only and last around an hour. The route is 850 metres long and… includes 1,000 steps. The consolation? Half are downhill, half uphill. The cave maintains a steady 11°C all year, so in summer, the contrast with the heat outside is striking—bring a jumper or light jacket. The sheer scale of the cave is awe-inspiring, but what’s even more extraordinary are the world’s longest horizontal pendulums. Installed in 1959 by geodesist Antonio Marussi, they act as ultra-sensitive detectors of Earth’s movements. Here’s how they work: the pendulum consists of a beam with a weight (mass) suspended from two steel wires (approximately 95 meters high), the upper one attached to the cave ceiling and the lower one to the floor. The beam rotates horizontally around a nearly vertical axis. The tilted axis creates a magnification effect; even the smallest movement of the Earth translates into a much larger displacement of the beam. The beam is equipped with a mirror onto which a laser is shone. Shifting the beam by even a micron, causes the light spot on the detector to shift and is recorded by the computer. This allows for the detection of even the smallest cave movements, crustal movements, or deviations from the vertical. Horizontal pendulums are ultra-precise spirit levels that measure microscopic rock tilts. In short, the cave monitors itself and the Earth—a bit like a giant, stone seismograph. Furthermore, the ideal cave environment promotes the precision of these measurements. The temperature and humidity are stable here, and there are no vibrations from vehicles or tourists stamping across the surface. Remarkably, the pendulums have registered four of the five largest earthquakes in the last 50 years—from Chile 1960, the 2004 Sumatra tsunami, to the 2011 Japan quake. It’s hard to believe that echoes from thousands of kilometres away are detected here. The pendulums can also track continental drift and crustal tides. Practical information: Opening hours: July–August daily; outside season: Tuesday–Sunday. Usually tours start on the hour—check the official site for current schedule. Tickets: Adults €15, students (19–26) and seniors €12, children 6–18 €8, under 6 free. Booking: Required—by email or phone, ideally at least 2 days in advance. Getting there: The cave is in Sgonico, on the Karst Plateau, a few kilometres from the Slovenian border. There are two large car parks on site. Bonus: Next to the cave is the Speleological Museum, with geological, archaeological, and palaeontological exhibits. Trieste – a city at the crossroads of worlds Since I had already taken the risk of venturing into Italy, I couldn’t skip Trieste. This is a city with character, a little lost in history, yet utterly unique. Nestled between the Adriatic and the Balkans, at the very end (or beginning—depending on how you look at it) of Italy, it’s always been a hotspot: Austrians, Italians, Slovenes, Yugoslavia, the Cold War—it’s like a soap opera in political form. In short, under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Trieste was the empire’s main port—its window on the world. After WWI, Austria lost, and Italy took the city. The interwar period was tough: Trieste was just one of many Italian ports and lost its prominence. Then came Fascism and WWII. In 1943, Trieste was occupied by the Germans. After the war, the Free Territory of Trieste was established—a strange entity controlled by US and British forces. It was split into Zone A (Trieste itself) and Zone B (Istria). Zone B quickly went to Yugoslavia, while Zone A adopted Italian currency, language, and financial support from Rome. Allowing Italy to co-manage Zone A caused tensions with Yugoslavia, with troops on standby. Eventually, in 1954, an agreement was reached: Trieste and its surroundings went to Italy, the rest to Yugoslavia (today Slovenia and Croatia). Today, after this historical rollercoaster, Trieste is a fascinating blend of cultures, cuisine, and architecture. I began exploring the city from the seaside promenade, where there’s a huge car park. After paying at the meter, I headed straight to Piazza Unità d’Italia. Right next to the promenade, it looks like the city’s elegant living room: on one side, monumental Austro-Hungarian buildings; on the other, the Adriatic. Walking here, you can almost imagine being in Vienna. A little to the left is the city’s “second living room”—Piazza della Borsa (Stock Exchange Square), once the economic heart of Trieste. Today, it’s full of cafés serving excellent Italian coffee, a tradition dating back to the 18th century, when Trieste was one of Europe’s main coffee ports. Nearby is Canal Grande, built in the 18th century to allow boats to reach the city centre for unloading goods. Now decorative, lined with elegant buildings, with small boats moored along it. Trieste also boasts ancient monuments. The oldest is a 1st-century BC triumphal arch. There’s also a Roman theatre, which once held around 6,000 spectators. The historic heart of Trieste sits on San Giusto Hill. Here you can visit San Giusto Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Justus, the city’s patron. Nearby stands San Giusto Castle, a formidable fortress that was once the base for Austrian troops, later a prison, and today a museum. Each bastion looks different, built in various periods to withstand different threats. Next to the castle are the ruins of an ancient basilica and forum.

Artykuł Trieste and the Giant Cave: a Mountain of Steps, a Sea of Experiences pochodzi z serwisu .

Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana

Gosia — Sun, 21 Sep 2025 11:36:55 +0000

I started the route towards central Albania in the town of Teth. The first point of my trip was Cape Rodon, also known as the Cape of Skanderbeg. This is definitely a place you must visit while being in Albania. Actually, I could point out three reasons why it’s worth coming here. The first are bunkers, which I wrote about here. The second one is the castle built by Skandenberg in 1452, to defend against the Ottoman Empire. Although it was a hiding place for Skandeberg for a while during the siege of Kruja in 1466, it was destroyed by the Turks only a year later. Currently, only the remains of the former fortress can be seen here. Unfortunately part of it was swallowed by the sea. However, the last and probably the most important reason why this place is at the top of the attractions list are the amazing views. An amazing panorama of Tirana and the surrounding area can be admired from Mount Dajti, located to the east of the capital of Albania. You can reach the peak by car, on foot or by the Dajti Express gondola lift. Following the coast southwards, I reached Durrës – one of the oldest cities in Albania. Durrës is currently the second largest city in Albania, after Tirana. Currently, it’s mainly a tourist resort with all the advantages and disadvantages of this type of place. Durrës was founded by the Greeks in 625 BC, and then during the times of the Roman Empire it was an important trading center. Moreover, in the years 1913-1920 it was the capital of Albania. In the city center there’s a Roman Amphitheater, which is one of the largest facilities of this type in Western Balkans. Apparently, in its heyday, when gladiator fights took place here, it could accommodate up to 20,000 viewers. In the mid-4th century, it was partially destroyed by an earthquake. From Ottoman times it remained buried and forgotten for many years. Only in 1996 was it accidentally discovered during earthworks. Currently, the amphitheater, surrounded by urban buildings, looks quite strange. It would seem that nothing has changed here since the archaeological works. It is completely neglected and littered. Unfortunately, this perfectly illustrates the basic problem of Albania, the lack of use of its tourist potential. Near the amphitheater there are the ruins of the Byzantine Forum and the rotunda. They were built around the 5th century and were an important trading and decision-making centre of the city. Unfortunately, as you can see in the attached picture, they suffer the same fate as the amphitheater. The most surprising thing is that both archaeological sites are located right next to the main square of Durres – Sheshi Liria. The Grand Mosque is also located next to the square. It was built in 1931 and was the largest mosque in Albania at that time. During Hoxha’s dictatorship, the minaret was demolished and the mosque itself remained closed. Both the square and the mosque look modern and seem to have been recently renovated. Meanwhile, nearby monuments of great historical value remain neglected. Actually, while walking around Durrës, I had the impression that this city had a problem with its own identity. Modern buildings mix here with typical socialist housing estates and abandoned places. Apparently that’s its charm 😉 The rest of Durres is typical tourist folklore, with all the kitsch of seaside towns. A sandy beach, a large selection of accommodation, restaurants and other attractions attract many tourists here. Personally, I’m not a fan of this type of places, but I still think it’s worth coming here, even for the amazing view of the sunset from the promenade. From Durres, I decided to go to the capital of Albania – Tirana. Tirana is quite a compact city and I think that one day is certainly enough to visit it. The central point of Tirana is Skandenberg Square with the monument to Skandenberg – the national hero who repelled the attacks of the Turks. Near the square is the Ethema Bey Mosque. The mosque is said to be the oldest structure in Tirana. However, I wonder how it fit into the landscape of Skandeberg Square at a time when statues of Stalin, Lenin and Enver Hoxha stood nearby. It is worth adding that during Hoxha’s dictatorship, Albania was a secular state where any religious practices could result in imprisonment or deportation to a labour camp. What’s more interesting, the Stalin statue was only removed in 1991 during a student demonstration against the socialist regime. Right next to the mosque there’s a huge Bunk’Art 2 nuclear shelter. Inside there’s a museum dedicated to the times of the most radical communist system in Europe, which existed during the rule of Enver Hoxha. The victims of Hoxha’s regime are also commemorated by Post Bllok – a monument located in a representative part of the city on Dëshmorët e Kombit boulevard. Obviously it’s a bunker, which is the most tangible symbol of dictatorship. Another interesting structure that can be seen in the centre of Tirana is the Pyramid. Even though it looks quite modern, appearances can be deceiving. It was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter, in honour of her daddy. It was intended to serve as the dictator’s mausoleum. It survived in this form until the fall of the regime. Currently, it has been renovated and serves as a modern art centre. This spot seems to be a favorite place for tourists as well as residents of Tirana. There is nothing surprising, especially when visiting it at sunset. Tirana also aspires to be a modern European capital. The urban space is diversified with artistic installations, such as “Cloud” made of steel rods. At the end of the visit to Tirana and central Albania, to feel the local atmosphere of the city, it’s worth visiting the New Bazaar (Pazari and Ri). You can buy there local products, antiques and souvenirs, or simply observe the life of the locals.

Artykuł Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana pochodzi z serwisu .

Ljubljana – a slightly psychedelic city of dragons

Gosia — Sun, 24 Aug 2025 15:36:05 +0000

Ljubljana is one of those cities that’s impossible not to like. Time seems to move slower here, and instead of the traffic jams and rush typical of other European capitals, the city charms with its intimate, relaxed atmosphere. The city’s most iconic landmark is the Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most). It was built to replace an old wooden bridge that collapsed during an earthquake in 1895. Initially, the plan was to decorate it with winged lions, but in the end, four dragons took the stage. Local legend has it that if a virgin crosses the bridge, the dragons will wag their tails. In practice? Well, let’s be honest – traffic on the bridge is pretty heavy, and the dragons remain stubbornly still. Beyond the Dragon Bridge, three other bridges are worth checking out. One of the oldest is the Shoemakers’ Bridge. Like the Dragon Bridge, it used to be wooden. Back then, it was lined with butcher shops, but the stench proved unbearable, so the authorities ordered them to relocate. Shoemaking workshops moved in instead. Speaking of butchers, Ljubljana also has the Butchers’ Bridge (Mesarski most). Built in 2010, it’s the youngest of the city’s bridges. Today, instead of meat, it’s covered in love locks and quirky sculptures. The most charming of them all is the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje), located at Prešeren Square, the heart of the city. From here, you get a lovely view of the Ljubljanica River and the Franciscan Church. The Triple Bridge is right next to Cankarjevo Nabrežje, the famous riverside promenade full of cafés, eateries, and live music. In the medieval centre, there’s a street that literally stares at you from beneath your feet: Ključavničarska Street, the Locksmiths’ Street. Its cobbles are adorned with hundreds of strange bronze faces. The faces create a surreal scene that stretches all the way to Mestni trg, the city’s oldest square, home to the Town Hall and Robba Fountain. On the other side of the river lies the elegant Congress Square, surrounded by historic buildings including the Slovenian Philharmonic and the University of Ljubljana. The best view of the city spreads from Castle Hill. Ljubljana Castle, or Ljubljanski Grad, towers over the city from 375 metres above. You can walk up in about 10–15 minutes for a free cardio session, or take the funicular that starts near the Central Market. The ride itself is an attraction. Once up there, you can explore the castle courtyard and the Chapel of St. George for free. The watchtower offers a fantastic panoramic view over the city. For a different vibe, head to the Metelkova district. Built on the site of former Austro-Hungarian barracks from 1911, today it’s a riot of colourful murals and psychedelic sculptures, where the parties can go on until the early hours – you can imagine the vibe 😉. The Slovenian government has tried several times to shut Metelkova down, but each attempt was met with resistance from local activists. Today, tourists come armed with cameras, artists with spray paint, and locals keep protesting – Metelkova still walks a fine line between legality and rebellion. In the modern part of the city stands another bizarre monument: the Cyanometer. Created by an artist Martin Bricelj Baraga, it measures the blueness of the sky. Over three metres tall, this column compares the sky above to a full colour palette and uses that to assess air quality. The principle is simple: the more “photoshopped” the blue, the cleaner the air. Faded colours indicate moisture and airborne particles. A local measuring station supplies data, which the Cyanometer displays on its surface along with the temperature. You can even track it online – because if it’s not on the internet, did it even happen? The installation appeared in 2016, coinciding with Ljubljana being named the European Green Capital. To round off your visit, head to the city’s largest park, Tivoli, where a distinctive castle now houses the Centre of Graphic Arts. Ljubljana may be small, but it’s full of character. Dragons, quirky sculptures, historic bridges, and the alternative world of Metelkova ensure you’ll never be bored, yet there are plenty of spots to relax away from the hustle and bustle typical of capital cities.

Artykuł Ljubljana – a slightly psychedelic city of dragons pochodzi z serwisu .

Car cemetery

Gosia — Sun, 06 Jul 2025 12:41:40 +0000

Car cemetery had been on my list for some time however I didn’t expect fireworks when I got there. I suspected that this place would be largely looted. Meanwhile, I saw a hundred cars from the 1960’s, 70’s and 80’s in various degrees of disintegration. It’s sad to see all of them slowly rusting and falling into increasing disrepair. Some of them have been dismantled, but there’s still a lot to see. Such a collection must have been a huge treasure in the times of socialism. Many drivers dreamed of such cars back then. The choice is wide: Fiats, Skodas, Syrenas, Mercedes and Opels. Fiat 126p cars lined up neatly in a row looked almost like they were on display in a showroom. I tried to find more information about this mysterious place. Unfortunately, there’s practically no trace of it on the Internet. However, I was interested in the fact that the car cemetery is located close to one of the main routes to Warsaw, in a quite dense forest. It’s surrounded by the fragments of the concrete wall and security guard’s booth. Well, maybe I don’t want to know more… If you like this post more urbex spots you cna find here.

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Malta – The Fortress Island, Girl on the urbex trail!

Gosia — Sun, 06 Apr 2025 13:02:28 +0000

Malta is called the “Fortress Island.” At first glance, it’s evident that the island’s architecture has a defensive character. High fortifications, citadels, and forts are reminiscent of the times of the Knights of Malta as well as the British era. Throughout its history, Malta was under the rule of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Crusaders, French, and British. Finally, it became an independent country only in 1964. Today, we can see numerous traces from the times of the Knights of Malta, as well as from the period of World War II. The Knights of Malta gained control over Malta in 1530 from Charles V of Spain. From that time, for the next 275 years, the island was under their rules. Many fortifications from this period were built to protect Malta from the Ottoman Empire. In 1565, they fulfilled their purpose, as Turkish forces unsuccessfully tried to capture the island for over three months. Many of these impressive fortifications can be admired today. Indeed, Valetta, seen from the sea, truly looks like a fortress city. During World War II, Malta was one of the most bombed countries in Europe. Due to its strategic location near Sicily, it was the target of continuous attacks by the Germans and Italians. Meanwhile, the British used the island to launch attacks on the Italian navy. In 1943, the Allies began their invasion of Sicily from Malta. This invasion was coordinated from the Lascaris War Rooms in Valetta. There was also a listening post here that intercepted German radio communications. Due to the numerous bomb attacks, Malta has many air-raid shelters. Some of the most interesting ones can be found in Mellieħa, Mosta, and Victoria on the island of Gozo. An interesting site is the fortification system built by the British in the late 19th century, known as the Victoria Lines. These fortifications were intended to protect the northern part of the island from potential attacks, but they were reportedly never used. The Victoria Lines stretch for 12 kilometers and are open for exploration. Some parts of the trail have been destroyed, so it’s best to visit the section known as the Dwejra Lines. This is the best-preserved section of the Victoria Lines. Moreover, the Dwejra Lines are also referred to as the Great Wall of Malta, and from a distance, this structure looks very impressive. The Dwejra Lines are located right next to the Our Lady of Hodegetria Chapel. Adjacent to the Victoria Lines is an old apiary, which adds to the attractions. Although the origin of the word “Malta” is not fully proven, it’s suspected to derive from the Greek word “Melite,” meaning honey-sweet. Malta was renowned for its unique honey produced by a distinct species of bees found only on the island. Some argue that some of these apiaries may date back to the times of Carthage and ancient Rome. It’s possible that these apiaries served different purposes in later periods. Carved into limestone rocks, they could have been used as catacombs or shelters during World War II. Another interesting structure built by the British before World War II is Fort Campbell, also known as Fortizza ta’ Selmun. The fort is located north of the Victoria Lines and was intended to protect Mellieħa Bay and St. Paul’s Bay. On the island of Malta, you can observe many pillbox bunkers scattered along the coastline. Each of these bunkers was equipped with firing positions and had an observation tower on top. Inside, they could accommodate about six soldiers. Some of them are located in very picturesque settings, such as the one near the town of Marsaskala. Next to it is the Riħama Battery. It was built by the Knights of Malta between 1714 and 1716. It formed part of a series of coastal fortifications around Malta’s shores and served to defend St. Thomas Bay. Today, a fairly large building stands on the site, which was once among the largest constructions of its kind in Malta. Inside, visitors can explore three rooms – the central one being the largest with an interesting arched ceiling, while the other two were smaller and supposedly used as storage for food and weapons. The battery saw action only once during Napoleon’s invasion of Malta in 1798. It ceased to be used in the 1820s and unfortunately has since fallen into ruin. However, abandoned places in Malta are not limited solely to military facilities. Malta is a popular holiday destination, but not all hotels are open to tourists. Some of them may not offer a luxurious stay, but they certainly provide a bit of adventure. One such place is the Jerma Hotel near Marsascala. It used to be a luxurious four-star resort built by the Libyan State Company Lafico. Due to this association, one of the hotel’s distinguished guests was Muammar Gaddafi, who had a presidential suite there. The Libyan dictator, Muammar Gaddafi, once maintained good relations with Maltese Prime Minister Dom Mintoff. The hotel ceased operations in 2007, but the exact reasons for its closure remain unclear. Near Mellieħa, there’s an abandoned tourist village called the Festaval Hotel, often mistakenly referred to as Festiwal. The facility was built in 1980 and operated for only about 12 years. Judging by its architecture, the hotel must have been exclusive. The apartments are spacious, and the view from the terraces overlooking Mellieħa Bay is stunning. Guests also had access to two pools. In 2018, there were plans to demolish it and build twelve luxury apartments with pools and a spa, but this project was never realized. On the island of Gozo, near Ramla Bay, there’s another abandoned resort complex called Ulysses Lodge. While the building itself may no longer be impressive, it offers an incredible view of one of the most beautiful beaches on Gozo. In the northern part of Gozo, there’s another interesting site, the Qolla l-Bajda Battery. This battery was built by the Knights of Malta between 1715 and 1716 as part of the coastal fortifications. It is also the northernmost structure of its kind. Currently, the site is in a state of disrepair, and one can hardly find any trace of its former architecture. The interior of the building looks as though it once served as a bar or nightclub before its closure. An additional attraction in the area is the salt pans, about which I wrote here. Near St. Julian’s, there’s an abandoned settlement known as White Rocks. It was built in 1960 for British soldiers stationed on the island. After the British forces left Malta, the settlement was converted into a holiday complex. On a vast area located right on the coast, you can see many buildings adorned with interesting murals. In the end, a real gem: an abandoned Subaru showroom, closed in the late 90s. Inside, you can see many vintage cars. They look like new; if you just pumped up the tires and charged the battery, I think you could go for a ride. The Fuji logo adds to the atmosphere of the place. Furthermore, the showroom is located in the center of the tourist town of Mosta.

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