fort -

Auckland, Devonport – the fort that never fired… and the fake news that built it

Gosia — Sun, 12 Apr 2026 16:44:26 +0000

It takes barely a few minutes to ride a ferry from central Auckland to Devonport – a place that seems to exist in a completely different reality. Devonport lies between two extinct volcanoes that not only shaped its history but also perfectly symbolise it. At first glance, it looks like a calm, almost sleepy Auckland suburb: wooden houses, cafés, restaurants, kids fishing in the bay with Auckland’s skyscrapers in the background… but that’s just the surface. Beneath it lies a turbulent past that once made Devonport one of the most strategic locations in the region. Right next to the ferry terminal rises Mount Victoria, an 87-metre volcanic cone. It may not sound impressive in terms of height, but the view from the top certainly is. The strategic importance of this spot was recognised long ago. First, Māori built their pā (fortifications) here to control access to the harbour. Later, the British followed suit. In 1885, four three-ton guns were installed, and in 1898 a massive 8-inch Armstrong Elswick gun was placed on the summit on a so-called disappearing carriage. Thanks to a hydraulic platform, the barrel could retract into a concrete pit after each shot, protecting the crew from counterfire. The gun was fired only once – launching a shell weighing around 95 kg over a distance of 8 km. The reason it was never used again? Shattered windows and a very effective local residents’ protest. Today, the gun can still be seen on Mount Victoria in its original condition. Nearby stood Fort Victoria, complete with a magazine, shelter and observation post, connected by telephone to other coastal defence fortifications. One of the bunkers now serves as a concert venue for a local band. Mount Victoria is just the beginning. The real heavy artillery of Devonport can be found on the second extinct volcano, North Head (Maungauika). The climb alone explains why this spot was chosen for defence – the 360-degree views are spectacular. The fort on North Head, built in the late 19th century, was never used in combat. It was constructed as a result of… a fake news story from 1873. Reports of a Russian warship, the Kaskowiski, allegedly landing hundreds of soldiers in Waitematā Harbour caused widespread panic and exposed serious weaknesses in New Zealand’s coastal defences. The response was a new fort, complete with disappearing guns, tunnels and bunkers. The defence system consisted of three artillery batteries: North Battery, aimed at the Rangitoto Channel; South Battery, guarding the inner harbour; and Summit (Cautley) Battery on the top of the hill. Walking around North Head, you can still see gun emplacements, observation posts with mural-covered walls, and wooden barracks from 1885, connected by tunnels to the Summit Battery. Nearby, it’s worth visiting the Torpedo Bay Naval Museum, which explores the history of the Royal New Zealand Navy. The location itself is historically significant, as the site once formed part of Auckland’s defence system. The museum boasts one of the largest naval history collections in New Zealand. Admission details and current prices can be found on the museum’s website. Devonport – practical information Ferries between Auckland and Devonport run regularly, with a crossing time of around 10 minutes. Services depart from Pier 1, Ferry Terminal at 99 Quay St, with roughly 30 sailings throughout the day. The easiest way to pay is with an AT HOP card or contactless payment (credit or debit card, Apple Pay, Google Pay or Samsung Pay). When boarding and exiting, remember to “tag on” and “tag off” using the same card or device. Paper tickets can also be purchased from ticket machines or at the customer service centre. Up-to-date fares and timetables are available on the Auckland Transport (Ferry Terminal – Downtown ↔ Devonport).

Artykuł Auckland, Devonport – the fort that never fired… and the fake news that built it pochodzi z serwisu .

Oman – discovering Muscat’s surroundings

Gosia — Sun, 08 Mar 2026 15:00:28 +0000

Oman has been strategically located along trade routes for centuries, which is reflected in the construction of numerous defensive forts designed to ensure protection against invaders. One such structure, Al Hazm Castle, is one of the most impressive buildings in Oman. It was built in the 18th century by Imam Sultan bin Saif II. The castle was not only the residence of the ruler of Oman but also served a defensive function, which is why it is also known as a fort. Al Hazm Castle is unique due to its construction. No wood was used in the building of its ceilings, and it also used an innovative water system known as falaj. Falaj is an irrigation system that has been used in Oman for thousands of years. It is believed to date back as far as 2500 BC. The system’s principle was simple: water from underground sources located in the mountains was delivered via aqueducts and tunnels to villages. This solution guaranteed survival in Oman’s hot climate. Interestingly, the water was supplied not only to fields but also to public buildings, carried by various sluices and distribution channels. By the way, it isn’t without reason that the word falaj means “to divide”. A special method for dividing the water was developed, using sundials and hourglasses to measure the time for water collection. This system is still used in Oman today, with an estimated total length of around 3,000 km of channels. In addition to this system, Al Hazm Castle was equipped with extra water tanks for emergencies such as sieges or fires. The castle also had numerous gunports and cannons. Inside its walls, there were also a prison, storage areas for dates and other food products, a kitchen, a madrasa (Koranic school), and living quarters for the imam and his wife. The second fort that left a lasting impression on me was Nakhal Fort, mainly due to its location amidst mountains and date palms. The exact date of its construction is not known, but it is estimated to be over 1,500 years old. A large part of its fortifications, which can be seen today, were built in the 17th century. The unique feature of the fort is its irregular appearance, as it has been cleverly integrated into the rock. In many places, the rock forms part of the fort’s walls. The fort’s purpose was to protect the trade route between the former capital, Nizwa, and the Gulf of Oman. It also served as a residential space. Visitors can see rooms with traditional exhibits, a mosque, and food storage areas. One interesting feature I saw in every Omani fort was the date storage room. Dates were stacked in bags one on top of the other, working as a press to squeeze the juice from the fruits at the bottom. The specially shaped floor in these storage rooms allowed the juice to drain into barrels through a channel. Another fascinating structure near Muscat is the Wadi Dayqah Dam, which provides water to the capital of Oman. It was opened in 2012 and is the largest such facility in the country. The dam consists of two barriers: the main one, which is 75 meters (246 feet) high, and a smaller earth dam that is 48.5 meters (149 feet) high. However, the dam is not the only attraction here. On top of the dam, there is a picnic area with a viewing terrace offering an incredible view of the surrounding area. This location is not easily accessible, so it is less likely to be crowded with tourists. However, one can observe local residents hosting gatherings under the shelters. Exploring the surroundings of Muscat is not only a history lesson but also an exploration of the country’s natural beauty. The forts built into rocks and the innovative water systems demonstrate the ingenuity and perseverance of the people of Oman. Meanwhile, modern constructions such as the Wadi Dayqah Dam show how well critical infrastructure can be integrated into the natural environment.

Artykuł Oman – discovering Muscat’s surroundings pochodzi z serwisu .

Muscat – A City from the Tales of the Arabian Nights…

Gosia — Sun, 15 Jun 2025 15:17:02 +0000

Muscat, the capital of Oman, has a unique fairytale charm in my view. It looks like something straight out of the Tales of the Arabian Nights, but with a modern twist. Enchanting palaces, forts perched on rocky cliffs, lush green oases, white architecture, scenic coastlines, and spice-scented bazaars create a distinctive atmosphere of this city. I began my exploration in the eastern part of Muscat, often referred to as the Old City. It’s the most iconic area of the city, home to numerous government buildings and elegant villas. However, the highlight here is Al-Alam Palace, one of the six residences of the Sultan of Oman. Used mainly for ceremonial purposes, the palace was built in the 1970s. Its name, meaning “Palace of the Flag,” originates from a local legend that any slave who touched the flagpole on its grounds would gain their freedom. Despite its relatively modern construction, the palace’s architecture reflects Islamic traditions, with stunning blue mosaics and unique blue and gold columns. While the palace is not open to the public, visitors can approach its gates to take photos. Strategically located near the harbor on the Gulf of Oman, the palace is flanked by two Portuguese forts – Al Jalali and Al Mirani. Built in the 16th century during the Portuguese occupation of Muscat, these forts were part of a formidable defense system. Rugged coastline, mountains, forts, and watchtowers must have made Muscat nearly impregnable in ancient times. Al Jalali and Al Mirani were not only key to protecting the harbor but also symbols of Portuguese dominance in the region. Their strategic location allowed control over the gulf, making Muscat a critical hub for maritime trade and defense. For a panoramic view of Muscat and the Corniche promenade, head to Riyam Park, perched on a hill. At its highest point stands the iconic Frankincense Burner Monument. Driving along the three-kilometer Corniche, it’s worth stopping at Mutrah Fort, perched atop a rocky outcrop. From here, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the harbor and the Gulf of Oman. Built in the early 16th century and later modified by the Portuguese around 1560, the fort served defensive and observational purposes. At the base of the fort lies another must-visit spot – Muttrah Souq. This is one of Oman’s oldest marketplaces and offers a unique, untouristy experience. Strolling through its narrow alleys, you can witness the daily life of locals. The souq is divided into sections, each with its distinct character. Here, you can find local handicrafts, jewellery, spices, everyday items, and clothing. One defining feature of Omani bazaars is the omnipresent aroma of frankincense, an essential oil derived from Boswellia sacra trees native to Oman. With a history spanning thousands of years, frankincense has been used for religious and medicinal purposes and is now popular in aromatherapy. For an evening stroll, head to Qurum Natural Park, the largest park in Muscat. It offers walking paths, playgrounds, gardens, picnic spots, cafes, and a lake. Nearby, Al Qurum Beach is particularly picturesque at sunset. Unfortunately, due to the lack of time, I couldn’t visit the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque during its opening hours. When I arrived, it was already dark, and the parking lot was full of locals heading for evening prayers. Nevertheless, even from the outside, the mosque made a lasting impression on me. It’s the largest mosque in Oman, capable of accommodating up to 20,000 worshippers. Its five minarets, symbolizing the five pillars of Islam, and the central dome rising 50 meters above the ground dominate Muscat’s skyline. Muscat seamlessly blends tradition with modernity. It surprises with its enchanting architecture that merges Islamic motifs with contemporary styles. Picturesque forts stand as a testament to the city’s historical significance, while a visit to Muttrah Souq offers an intimate glimpse into daily life. This is a city worth visiting to experience the magic of the Tales of the Arabian Nights in a modern setting.

Artykuł Muscat – A City from the Tales of the Arabian Nights… pochodzi z serwisu .

Fujairah and Sharjah – United Arab Emirates

Gosia — Sun, 01 Jun 2025 14:26:33 +0000

Fujairah is another emirate I visited during my stay in the UAE. I travelled there straight from Al Ain, located in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi. My first stop was Al Hayl Fort. The journey covered about 150 km and initially seemed to be monotonous. However, the last stretch of the trip turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The road to the fort meandered through the picturesque Wadi Al Hayl valley. As the terrain became increasingly mountainous, the amount of asphalt on the road decreased. The area felt completely isolated from civilization. Eventually, I arrived at the fort, which, unfortunately, was securely locked. Disappointed, I started taking pictures when a man suddenly appeared, hastily putting on a shirt with a security logo. It seemed suspicious, and I waited anxiously, ready to run in the hope that I would be faster than him. It turned out he was a local resident employed by the UAE’s Department of Culture. The most surprising was that my guide turned out to be from Bangladesh. He emigrated to the UAE in search of better opportunities. He had considerable knowledge about the fort and the surrounding area. Exploring the fort was a bit of an adventure and fun since much of it isn’t open to visitors. Reaching the upper parts required some acrobatics, including climbing on improvised metal structures and squeezing through wooden beams and holes in the floor. It was a fascinating experience, reminiscent of exploring abandoned places in Europe. The fort was built in 1932 by Sheikh Abdullah bin Hamdan Al Sharqi. It served both defensive purposes and as the Sheikh’s residence. Constructed from local materials such as stone, wood, and mud-brick, the fort has a unique character. Its architecture is also intriguing, with windows strategically placed to create natural ventilation – essential in such a hot climate. The main complex was the residential area for the Sheikh’s family. From its highest point, you can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the abandoned village of Al Hayl. Another vantage point is the watchtower located on a hilltop, offering excellent views of the area. After the exploration of Al Hayl Fort, I headed to the capital of the emirate – Fujairah City. The city’s most iconic landmark is the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, modeled after the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. It is the second-largest mosque in the UAE, after the one in Abu Dhabi, which I wrote about earlier. The mosque is also the youngest in the Emirates, it was completed in 2015. The entire complex is truly impressive. Meanwhile, for a change, on the outskirts of Fujairah lies Fujairah Fort, one of the oldest structures in the United Arab Emirates. It is believed to have been built in the 16th century by the Portuguese and is now the city’s main attraction. Located atop a 20-meter hill, it serves as an excellent observation point overlooking the surrounding area and the Persian Gulf. The fort is open daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and the entrance fee is just 5 AED. Next on my journey was the city of Khorfakkan, located in the emirate of Sharjah. Khorfakkan resembles a typical coastal tourist town, with a wide promenade and numerous historical and cultural attractions. One symbolic site is the Resistance Monument, located on a hill overlooking the city. The structure commemorates the heroic resistance of the local population against the Portuguese invasion in 1507. Its architecture, inspired by the helmets worn at the time, symbolizes the resilience of the local community. The city also boasts an intriguing amphitheater inspired by Roman architecture. Adjacent to the amphitheater is a spectacular 45-meter-high and 11-meter-wide artificial waterfall. A true gem of Khorfakkan is the Al Suhub Rest Area. The name “Al Suhub,” meaning “cloud” in Arabic, is fitting for this location. Perched atop a mountain nearly 600 meters high, it offers spectacular views of the mountains and Khorfakkan. At the summit, there’s a restaurant resembling a flying saucer – a structure that looks a lot like the famous mountain shelter on Śnieżka in Poland. The area around Al Rafisah Dam is another excellent destination for a day trip. The crystal-clear lake, surrounded by the Al Hajar Mountains, is a favourite spot for locals to relax. You can rent kayaks or paddle boats here and explore the scenic hiking trails nearby. There’s also a restaurant with panoramic views of the lake. Just a few minutes from the dam lies the Najd Al Maqsar heritage village. The village comprises thirteen stone houses, many over 100 years old. Its central feature is the 300-year-old Al Maqsar Tower, which was part of a network of fortifications protecting Khorfakkan. However, I found the village somewhat disappointing. I had expected to explore an urban exploration site, but instead, the area has been renovated and turned into a hotel. While the village looks charming from a distance, access is restricted to hotel guests.

Artykuł Fujairah and Sharjah – United Arab Emirates pochodzi z serwisu .