Malta -

Malta – The Fortress Island, Girl on the urbex trail!

Gosia — Sun, 06 Apr 2025 13:02:28 +0000

Malta is called the “Fortress Island.” At first glance, it’s evident that the island’s architecture has a defensive character. High fortifications, citadels, and forts are reminiscent of the times of the Knights of Malta as well as the British era. Throughout its history, Malta was under the rule of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Crusaders, French, and British. Finally, it became an independent country only in 1964. Today, we can see numerous traces from the times of the Knights of Malta, as well as from the period of World War II. The Knights of Malta gained control over Malta in 1530 from Charles V of Spain. From that time, for the next 275 years, the island was under their rules. Many fortifications from this period were built to protect Malta from the Ottoman Empire. In 1565, they fulfilled their purpose, as Turkish forces unsuccessfully tried to capture the island for over three months. Many of these impressive fortifications can be admired today. Indeed, Valetta, seen from the sea, truly looks like a fortress city. During World War II, Malta was one of the most bombed countries in Europe. Due to its strategic location near Sicily, it was the target of continuous attacks by the Germans and Italians. Meanwhile, the British used the island to launch attacks on the Italian navy. In 1943, the Allies began their invasion of Sicily from Malta. This invasion was coordinated from the Lascaris War Rooms in Valetta. There was also a listening post here that intercepted German radio communications. Due to the numerous bomb attacks, Malta has many air-raid shelters. Some of the most interesting ones can be found in Mellieħa, Mosta, and Victoria on the island of Gozo. An interesting site is the fortification system built by the British in the late 19th century, known as the Victoria Lines. These fortifications were intended to protect the northern part of the island from potential attacks, but they were reportedly never used. The Victoria Lines stretch for 12 kilometers and are open for exploration. Some parts of the trail have been destroyed, so it’s best to visit the section known as the Dwejra Lines. This is the best-preserved section of the Victoria Lines. Moreover, the Dwejra Lines are also referred to as the Great Wall of Malta, and from a distance, this structure looks very impressive. The Dwejra Lines are located right next to the Our Lady of Hodegetria Chapel. Adjacent to the Victoria Lines is an old apiary, which adds to the attractions. Although the origin of the word “Malta” is not fully proven, it’s suspected to derive from the Greek word “Melite,” meaning honey-sweet. Malta was renowned for its unique honey produced by a distinct species of bees found only on the island. Some argue that some of these apiaries may date back to the times of Carthage and ancient Rome. It’s possible that these apiaries served different purposes in later periods. Carved into limestone rocks, they could have been used as catacombs or shelters during World War II. Another interesting structure built by the British before World War II is Fort Campbell, also known as Fortizza ta’ Selmun. The fort is located north of the Victoria Lines and was intended to protect Mellieħa Bay and St. Paul’s Bay. On the island of Malta, you can observe many pillbox bunkers scattered along the coastline. Each of these bunkers was equipped with firing positions and had an observation tower on top. Inside, they could accommodate about six soldiers. Some of them are located in very picturesque settings, such as the one near the town of Marsaskala. Next to it is the Riħama Battery. It was built by the Knights of Malta between 1714 and 1716. It formed part of a series of coastal fortifications around Malta’s shores and served to defend St. Thomas Bay. Today, a fairly large building stands on the site, which was once among the largest constructions of its kind in Malta. Inside, visitors can explore three rooms – the central one being the largest with an interesting arched ceiling, while the other two were smaller and supposedly used as storage for food and weapons. The battery saw action only once during Napoleon’s invasion of Malta in 1798. It ceased to be used in the 1820s and unfortunately has since fallen into ruin. However, abandoned places in Malta are not limited solely to military facilities. Malta is a popular holiday destination, but not all hotels are open to tourists. Some of them may not offer a luxurious stay, but they certainly provide a bit of adventure. One such place is the Jerma Hotel near Marsascala. It used to be a luxurious four-star resort built by the Libyan State Company Lafico. Due to this association, one of the hotel’s distinguished guests was Muammar Gaddafi, who had a presidential suite there. The Libyan dictator, Muammar Gaddafi, once maintained good relations with Maltese Prime Minister Dom Mintoff. The hotel ceased operations in 2007, but the exact reasons for its closure remain unclear. Near Mellieħa, there’s an abandoned tourist village called the Festaval Hotel, often mistakenly referred to as Festiwal. The facility was built in 1980 and operated for only about 12 years. Judging by its architecture, the hotel must have been exclusive. The apartments are spacious, and the view from the terraces overlooking Mellieħa Bay is stunning. Guests also had access to two pools. In 2018, there were plans to demolish it and build twelve luxury apartments with pools and a spa, but this project was never realized. On the island of Gozo, near Ramla Bay, there’s another abandoned resort complex called Ulysses Lodge. While the building itself may no longer be impressive, it offers an incredible view of one of the most beautiful beaches on Gozo. In the northern part of Gozo, there’s another interesting site, the Qolla l-Bajda Battery. This battery was built by the Knights of Malta between 1715 and 1716 as part of the coastal fortifications. It is also the northernmost structure of its kind. Currently, the site is in a state of disrepair, and one can hardly find any trace of its former architecture. The interior of the building looks as though it once served as a bar or nightclub before its closure. An additional attraction in the area is the salt pans, about which I wrote here. Near St. Julian’s, there’s an abandoned settlement known as White Rocks. It was built in 1960 for British soldiers stationed on the island. After the British forces left Malta, the settlement was converted into a holiday complex. On a vast area located right on the coast, you can see many buildings adorned with interesting murals. In the end, a real gem: an abandoned Subaru showroom, closed in the late 90s. Inside, you can see many vintage cars. They look like new; if you just pumped up the tires and charged the battery, I think you could go for a ride. The Fuji logo adds to the atmosphere of the place. Furthermore, the showroom is located in the center of the tourist town of Mosta.

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Comino – small is beautiful

Gosia — Sun, 20 Oct 2024 16:42:49 +0000

Comino is one of the unique places worth visiting when in Malta. It’s a small island located between Malta and Gozo, covering an area of just 3.5 km². This makes it an ideal spot for a day trip. The island is small enough to be explored on foot within a day. A path along the high cliffs guarantees incredible views. The island’s name comes from cumin, which once grew abundantly here. Comino has a rich history dating back to Roman times when it was mainly used for agricultural purposes. The Knights of Malta organized wild boar and rabbit hunts here. Comino was never really inhabited, mainly due to the lack of protection against corsairs. It wasn’t until 1618 that the Knights of Malta decided to build a watchtower here, which was intended to serve as an early warning system against Ottoman invaders and pirates. The tower was used as a communication point between similar towers on Malta and Gozo. Today, it’s the most distinctive building on Comino. It is located on an 80-meter cliff, offering an amazing view of the island. Right next to St. Mary’s Tower is an abandoned hospital, built by the British in 1890. The hospital served as an infectious disease hospital, treating patients with cholera and plague. Currently, Comino is inhabited by only a handful of people. There is no tourist infrastructure on the island. The only buildings here are St. Mary’s Tower, a chapel, a police station, and an abandoned pig farm. There is no hotel, and the only such establishment ceased operations in 2019. The island is not accessible to car traffic, making it an ideal place to relax. However, during the holiday season, it is crowded with tourists, mainly due to the Blue Lagoon, which is one of Malta’s main attractions. Indeed, the lagoon looks amazing. The crystal-clear water with an intense turquoise color makes an incredible impression. The Blue Lagoon is adjacent to the small islet of Cominotto (Kemmunett), which also offers excellent swimming conditions. The Blue Lagoon is predominantly a rocky beach. Due to its small size, it is unfortunately very crowded. An alternative for those who prefer quieter places could be Santa Maria Bay or San Niklaw Bay. Santa Maria Bay is the largest beach on the island. The water here is shallow, and it is visited by significantly fewer people compared to the Blue Lagoon. San Niklaw Bay, located in the northern part of the island, is particularly popular as an excellent spot for snorkeling. How to get there? Regular ferries depart from the port of Cirkewwa, located in the northern part of the main Maltese island. They usually run every 30 minutes, and the journey to the island takes the same amount of time. Trips are also available from the port of Mgarr on Gozo. A round-trip ticket costs €13 (€6.5 – discount ticket) – data from 2024. In addition, numerous travel agencies offer full-day trips to Comino.

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Popeye Village – Malta’s Disneyland

Gosia — Sun, 11 Aug 2024 10:27:51 +0000

Popeye Village wasn’t on my itinerary for exploring Malta. Generally, I avoid such places because I prefer to spend my time sightseeing. However, this time, when I saw Popeye Village from a distance, I decided to take a chance. The place looked so tacky and bizarre that I actually liked it. Popeye Village, also known as Malta’s Disneyland, is the most famous amusement park in Malta. It was created from scratch as a film set for the adaptation of the famous comic strip. The film was made in 1980, and you won’t guess who played the role of Popeye. It was Robin Williams. While Robin Williams was a famous actor, probably few people remember Popeye. He was a sailor whose favourite food was spinach. It was spinach that gave him superhuman strength. In the early 20th century, spinach began to gain popularity due to its health benefits. Therefore, Popeye’s fondness for this plant is not accidental. A can of spinach was a kind of product placement of those times 😉 Interestingly, his character was likely modelled on Frank “Rocky” Fiegel, who was the son of Polish immigrants. He lived in Chester, which was also the hometown of Popeye’s creator, Elzie Crisler Segar. Like Popeye, he had a heart of gold but a fiery temper. He didn’t have an eye and constantly smoked a pipe. The village is located on the northwest coast of Malta, about 2 km from Mellieha Bay, in the picturesque setting of Anchor Bay. The village was established in 1979, and its construction took only four months. The buildings were constructed from wood imported from the Netherlands, while the roofs were delivered from Canada. On a relatively small area, you can find plenty of attractions for both children and adults. On site, you can see the houses of the film’s characters, as well as a post office, bakery, dentist’s office, fire station, and a vegetable shop. Each of the buildings is accessible to visitors. Inside, there are themed design. We can feel like characters from the film, as the interiors of the houses are open to the public, and every exhibit can be touched. In the main square of the village, right next to the fire station, numerous games and shows are organized by animators. There’s also a corner with various games. The museum showcases items related to the film’s production. In a small cinema, you can watch a documentary on the making of Popeye Village and see clips from the movie. On hot days, visitors can combine sightseeing with swimming in the waters of Anchor Bay. The ticket price includes umbrellas and sunbeds, but their availability is on a first-come, first-served basis. Additionally, there’s a souvenir shop as well as bars and restaurants. Despite over 40 years since its creation, Popeye Village continues to enchant and surprise. The small, quirky cottages are incredibly charming. The abundance of details makes the place more authentic. The village embodies kitsch at its best. Its colourful palette and nautical style add a unique charm to the place. It’s so tacky that it’s actually beautiful. Popeye Village is open from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM, 5:30 PM, or 7:00 PM depending on the season. The entrance fee is €24 (from July to the end of September), a discount ticket for children costs €16. Ticket prices vary depending on the season. From late May to end of June and from October to November 5th, tickets cost €18 and €14 for children. In other periods, the ticket prices are €15 and €10 for children. All prices are for the year 2024. For detailed and current pricing information, it’s best to check here. The ticket price includes a map of the village, a coupon for popcorn and a postcard. During the high season, the ticket reportedly includes a boat tour around the bay. The easiest way to reach the village is by car, there’s a free parking available on site. Alternatively, public transportation is also an option. Bus number 101 runs between Mellieha Centre / Mellieha Bay and Popeye Village. To get Mellieha Centre / Mellieha Bay you need to take a bus from Valletta (41, 42), Sliema (222), and Bugibba (221). For current bus routes and maps, you can find more information here. For those who aren’t interested in visiting Popeye Village, there’s an option to admire it for free from a nearby cliff. From this viewpoint, you can see the village and the picturesque bay in its entirety.

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One day in Gozo

Gosia — Sun, 07 Jul 2024 14:13:38 +0000

I start my tour around Gozo at the Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs, located on the southeastern coast of the island. This is one of the must-see places in Malta. From a height of over 130 meters, you can admire an amazing panorama of the Mediterranean Sea. A little further, you can admire an equally spectacular landscape at the so-called Sunset Cliff. To get to know the island not only from the perspective of the cliffs, it is worth visiting the capital of Gozo – Victoria, also known as Rabat. Victoria boasts interesting monuments and architecture. The main tourist attraction is the Il-Kastell citadel. Walking along the defensive walls, you can admire picturesque views of the surrounding towns. Within the citadel, there’s also the historic Cathedral of the Assumption. The old town is a labyrinth of narrow streets with houses adorned with interesting details. At the nearby market, you can find traditional Maltese products, handicrafts, sweets, and fruits. Local restaurants serve excellent Maltese cuisine. An absolute must-see is Dwejra Bay, located in the western part of the island. Here you can see impressive cliffs and interesting rock formations. Until recently, you could also admire the Azure Window, known from the Game of Thrones series. Unfortunately, in 2017, it collapsed due to strong winds, depriving Gozo of one of its main attractions. Currently, you can still admire the so-called Fungus Rock, also known in Malta as “Il-Ġebla tal-Ġeneral” (General’s Rock). It has an interesting history. Fungus Rock owes its name to a unique plant collected here by the Knights of Malta. It’s a dark brown, club-shaped, parasitic plant (Cynomorium coccineus) growing up to about 18 cm in height. Although it originates from North Africa, Fungus Rock is the only place in Europe where it can be found. In the times of the Knights of Malta, it was believed that its extract had strong healing properties. It was used to dress wounds because it stopped bleeding and prevented infections. Moreover, it was also supposed to cure dysentery, ulcers, and even venereal diseases. The plant was very popular, and its market value was high. When the Knights of St. John discovered it growing on a rock in Gozo, they knew they found a real treasure. A rope was stretched between the land and the rock, and collectors were transported back and forth on a small, one-person cable car. Moreover, in 1637, they built the Dwejra (Qawra) fortress to protect this precious medicine. They even cut down the rock slope to prevent access to the top of the rock. Next to it, there’s another attraction – the Inland Sea – a lagoon connected to the open sea by a tunnel carved into the 100-meter Dwejra cliff. The tunnel is large enough for local fishermen to organize boat trips through it. Until recently, this reservoir was used by fishermen for fishing. Nowadays, due to the large number of fish, it is an attractive place for diving. An interesting sight is the salt pans located in the northern part of the island near Marsalforn. These are shallow rectangular basins carved at the edge of the sea, which are flooded with seawater. As it evaporates, salt is formed. The northern part of Gozo is an ideal place for this type of production, which was known here since Roman times. Limestone rocks are found here, which could be shaped in any way. This traditional method of obtaining salt is still used today. The salt pans are adjacent to the Qolla l-Bajda Battery, which was built by the Knights of Malta in 1715-1716. I will write more about this place soon, in a post dedicated to abandoned places in Malta. Marsalforn is also known for the peculiar statue of Christ the Redeemer (Tas-Salvatur), located in an open field. It was built in 1970 on top of a hill. At the foot of the hill, there’re farmland fields that effectively prevent a trip to the top. A break in sightseeing is best taken at Ramla Beach, which is one of the most beautiful on Gozo. There are ruins of an abandoned hotel here, which I will also write more about in another post. On the way back, it is worth visiting a town Xagħra where you can see the historic Ta’ Kola Windmill. The windmill was built in 1725 on the initiative of the Knights of Malta. At that time, many such objects were built to encourage the local population to produce flour. Inside the windmill, there’s a museum of rural life. From the port of Ċirkewwa, located at the northern end of Malta, ferries regularly run to the port of Mġarr on Gozo. The ferries are operated by Gozo Channel Line and depart approximately every 45 minutes. The entire crossing takes about 25 minutes and is also available for cars. Prices are affordable: the transfer of the driver and car costs €15.70, while passengers pay €4.65 (prices from 2024). More information can be found here. Gozo is a place that impresses both in terms of history and nature. Although it’s smaller than the main island of Malta, it surprises with its unique landscapes, monuments, and interesting architecture. The history of this place is told by nature itself. The salt pans are a reminder of ancient salt production, and Fungus Rock tells an interesting story of the use of natural medicine.

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