Morocco -

Fez – the city of a million mosques, donkeys and pigeon poo

Gosia — Sun, 02 Nov 2025 09:56:50 +0000

Fez isn’t a city — it’s a medieval time machine with a full-immersion option in Arab culture. Founded in the late 8th century, it’s considered the oldest and best-preserved Islamic city in the world. But don’t expect some boring open-air museum — this is 100% Arab city life, complete with chaos, colour and noise in generous supply. For centuries, Fez was Morocco’s capital and the beating heart of religion, learning and culture. It’s also where the world’s oldest still-operating university — Al-Karawiyyin — has been running uninterrupted since the 9th century. Though today it’s Morocco’s fourth-largest city, Fez has stubbornly held onto its medieval soul. The adventure begins at Bab Bou Jeloud, one of fifteen gates leading into the old city — the medina. I show up at the crack of dawn, naively hoping to see it in peace and quiet. The gate, covered in intricate blue mosaic, looks straight out of a fairytale. But as soon as I step through, the fairytale ends and reality slaps me in the face — welcome to the Arab souk. The stalls are crammed with goods, the workshops buzz with local craftsmen — potters, weavers, jewellers — it’s crowded and the air is thick with passionate haggling. It’s pure Arabia. At first glance it seems like utter chaos, but there’s method to the madness. The souk is divided by trade — metal goods, food, spices, clothes, cosmetics — all neatly sectioned off, assuming you can navigate the nearly thousand alleyways that make up this labyrinth. The medina is so huge it even has dedicated tourist trails to stop visitors getting completely lost. It’s also the world’s largest car-free urban area — goods here still travel the old-school way: on the backs of donkeys. Apparently, the idea of a sustainable city was alive and kicking here long before the EU wrote its first directive. Fez is also known as the City of a Million Mosques. For centuries, Islamic scholars have trained in its many madrasas. One such gem is the richly decorated Al-Attarine Madrasa — a place that oozes the spirit of the past. But the true calling card of Fez? The tanneries — and the biggest and smelliest of them all is Chouara. Operating non-stop since the 11th century, it hasn’t changed much since medieval times. From above, it looks almost picturesque: dozens of stone vats filled with natural dyes in every shade from saffron yellow and poppy red to deep indigo blue. But before the leather gets its fancy colour, it goes through a process that’s… well, let’s call it character-building. Chouara is the oldest functioning tannery in the world — and the process is still delightfully medieval. First, the hides are soaked in a white soup made of water, lime, salt… and pigeon droppings. Nope, not a joke. The mixture softens the leather, making it more absorbent. Then comes the dye bath, followed by open-air drying. Most of the workers are men, wading waist-deep in this medieval brew, doing it all under the scorching sun. The best way to see the tannery in full glory is from one of the surrounding rooftop terraces. For the top view, head to the terrace at shop no. 10 — a small tip to the shopkeeper gets you access to the show. And yes, every visitor gets a sprig of mint, because the smell up there is… let’s say “aromatically unforgettable”. It’s also worth dropping by the nearby Sidi Moussa tannery — smaller but less crowded. End your visit with a bite at Café Clock, where for 110 dirhams you can try a camel burger. It tastes like beef, only leaner and a bit more aromatic. Fez isn’t just a city — it’s a living medieval relic, where tradition tangles with the noise and energy of everyday Arab life. Here, history smells like tanned leather, and every turn of the medina reveals a new story.

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Morocco – clay fortresses, the Eye of Sauron, roses and mountain crossings

Gosia — Sun, 19 Oct 2025 15:42:48 +0000

If you think Morocco is just Marrakesh, camels, and mint tea, well… you’re probably right. But once you stray a bit from the main routes and, instead of a travel agency brochure, pick up a map with hand-marked “odd” spots, you’ll encounter things that will completely change your perception of this country. Amridil Kasbah – a Fortress from a Banknote and a Film Set Amridil Kasbah is located on the road from the Dades Gorge to Ouarzazate. It’s another place on the map of Morocco where time stands still. A kasbah is a protected palace, citadel, or fortification, usually made of clay bricks. Kasbahs were built along trade routes, providing shelter for travelers. Morocco currently boasts many such structures, but the Kasbah of Amridil is a unique site, adorning the Moroccan 50 dirham banknote. Its picturesque setting, nestled in the middle of the Skoura Oasis, and its traditional Berber architecture make it a truly unique place. Noor Ouarzazate – a Moroccan technological marvel Morocco is an incredible place where advanced engineering coexists with traditional clay kasbahs. Near the Kasbah Amridil, a tall tower resembling the “Eye of Sauron” can be seen on the horizon. This is Noor Ouarzazate – one of the largest solar power plants in the world. Imagine 4,200 football fields, but instead of grass – a sea of mirrors. Sounds like a sci-fi set? In Morocco, it’s not a movie, but an everyday occurrence. Noor (meaning “light” in Arabic – very poetic, but also very apt) is a four-part energy complex near the famous city of Ouarzazate. It includes both traditional photovoltaic (PV) panels and more space-age technologies for concentrating solar radiation (CSP – Concentrated Solar Power). The plant’s operating principle is simple: giant parabolic mirrors track the sun, and the rays, concentrated on a tower, heat tubes filled with special oil to temperatures up to 393°C. The oil heats water, which in turn drives turbines, and these then turn into generators that convert mechanical energy into electricity. The plant has a capacity of 580 MW and is part of Morocco’s plan to use 52% of its energy from renewable sources by 2030. Thanks to this plant, Morocco has become a leader in solar energy in Africa and is reducing its dependence on imported fossil fuels. I saw a similar facility in Israel some time ago. Kasbah Taourirt If you ever decide to visit this place, I’m sure your first thought will be, “that fortress looks familiar.” And indeed, this place is famous from the first Gladiator film. It’s located in Ouarzazate, the so-called Moroccan Hollywood, right next to the famous Atlas Studios, which I wrote about here. The fortress looks impressive from the outside, but its interior is quite austere. Although there’s not much to see, for 20 dirhams (a pittance), it’s worth a visit, if only for the atmosphere and the feeling of walking on a film set. Dades and Todra Gorges Although located close to each other, these gorges represent two completely different worlds. The first gateway to the incredible Moroccan landscape is the town of Tinghir, surrounded by a green oasis with the Atlas Mountains as a backdrop. Just beyond the city viewpoint begins the spectacular route through the Todra Gorge. The vertical limestone walls look as if someone had built a 400-meter-high rock wall on either side of the river. Moreover, depending on the time of day, they take on various shades, from orange to pink and red. At the final section, the gorge narrows to a mere 10 meters wide. Meanwhile, the road through the Dades Gorge is a real rollercoaster, with kilometers of serpentines, sharp turns, and no barriers. It’s truly fascinating. The gorge is formed by red rocks with fanciful shapes. A particularly interesting rock formation is the “Monkey Fingers.” The rocks are shaped like fingers, and from a distance, you can see an entire hand rising from the valley floor. The views aren’t the only attraction of this route. It’s also known as the “Road of a Thousand Kasbahs,” or mud fortresses. Built by the Berbers to defend against invasions, some of these fortresses are still inhabited by locals. It’s impossible to drive through Dades without noticing that life here moves at its own pace, free from the madness of large cities. Kalaat M’Gouna – Valley of the Roses The Dades and Todra Gorges are not the only attraction in this region. A little further south lies the enchanting “Valley of the Roses,” which transforms into a fairytale rose wonderland in May. Local women harvest tons of petals daily, which are sent to nearby factories. It’s estimated that between 3,000 and 4,000 tons of petals are harvested here between April and May. The petals are then used to make perfumes, creams, and the famous rose oils. It’s said that it takes half a ton of petals to produce one liter of this oil. Therefore, it’s no wonder that just one milliliter of it costs more than gold. From Kalaat M’Gouna, it’s worth the drive to Bou Tharar. The road, which once required a Jeep and courage, is now as smooth as rose balm. The views? Red rocks, a green valley, and spectacular views, especially at sunset, make this 30-kilometer stretch of road an incredible experience. Tizi n’Tichka, or Pasture Pass Tizi n’Tichka is the rather unusual name for the highest and most winding road in Morocco. At an altitude of over 2,000 meters, you can see the most beautiful mountain landscapes of the High Atlas. The High Atlas is the highest mountain range in this part of Africa. However, Tizi n’Tichka is no ordinary mountain pass—it is a natural border between two worlds: the western Mediterranean, with its palm trees and olive groves, and the arid eastern part, covered in the sands of the Sahara. This road has been traveled since ancient times by caravans transporting goods from East Africa to Marrakesh. Back then, only narrow, winding mule tracks were available. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French decided to build a road here, which was then considered a marvel of engineering. Today, the route is wider and much safer, although it is sometimes closed during heavy snowfall. Tizi n’Tichka delights with its diversity, with views that change with every kilometer. It’s the best place to experience the atmosphere of wild and rugged Morocco. All these stops form the basis of a two-day tour of central Morocco. Driving here feels like a journey through time and space – passing medieval kasbahs, futuristic engineering structures, and incredible mountain landscapes.

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Atlas Studios – Styrofoam Hollywood in Morocco

Gosia — Sat, 06 Sep 2025 14:10:15 +0000

Visiting Atlas Studios in the Moroccan town of Ouarzazate is like ticking off Egypt, Rome and a bit of Somalia within an hour. Are you into cinema? Forget Hollywood – real movie magic happens in Morocco, between the High Atlas Mountains and the sands of the Sahara. In fact, the stories of both places kicked off around the same time. While Hollywood was still just a sleepy residential district at the end of the 19th century, Louis Lumière was already filming his first movie Le Chevrier Marocain (The Moroccan Goatherd) here in Morocco. But it wasn’t until 1983 that businessman Mohamed Belghmi opened an official film studio – and thus Atlas Studios was born: the sunny, low-budget alternative to Hollywood, offering mountain views, desert vibes, a touch of the exotic, and the unofficial slogan: Cinema on a Shoestring. The real turning point came in 1998, when Ridley Scott chose the location to film Gladiator. Blockbusters like Lawrence of Arabia, The Last Temptation of Christ, Gladiator, The Jewel of the Nile, The Mummy, Black Hawk Down, Babel, The Bourne Ultimatum, Game of Thrones and Kundun have been filmed here. These days, Atlas Studios is one of the largest facilities of its kind in the world. Film sets are built across the vast nothingness around Ouarzazate, then often abandoned – leaving behind ghostly remnants of scenery, ripe for exploration (more on that soon). It’s hard to say where the studio ends and the desert begins. The studios are open to visitors. Entry costs 80 dirhams, plus an extra 30 for the Kingdom of Heaven set (which, naturally, was closed in 2025 when I visited – classic). Tours are guided only, with local guides sharing behind-the-scenes titbits from various productions. The visit kicks off in a vast courtyard, where you’ll find a replica of the F-16 jet from The Jewel of the Nile (1985, starring Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner). Just behind it, the vehicles used in Black Hawk Down are parked like props in a post-apocalyptic car boot sale. You’ll also spot the bus from the legendary Prison Break series, Noah’s Ark, and a polystyrene Aston Martin – an oddly combo. Next up: Cleopatra (1999) takes the stage. The Egyptian temple set is genuinely impressive, with towering columns and a dark, moody interior. The murals look authentic – although the hieroglyphs don’t say much, since they’re just there for show. From the palace, you’re thrown straight into the slave market from Gladiator. The atmosphere thickens – dusty, dark, airless rooms give off real “escape-room with no exit” vibe. All that’s missing is Russell Crowe yelling, Are you not entertained?! And you want to answer: Not yet… Because this is just the beginning. Nearby you’ll find a scaled-down version of the Karnak Temple from Luxor, featured in Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra and The Mummy. Smaller, sure – but eerily accurate. Then rolls in another Cleopatra temple from Asterix & Obelix. With its wild colours and intricate detail, you might just feel like Monica Bellucci – briefly, before noticing that the paint’s starting to peel. In the distance looms the massive Jerusalem set from Kingdom of Heaven – reportedly the largest ever built for a film. The grand finale? A Buddhist temple created for Martin Scorsese’s Kundun, complete with an enormous Buddha statue and décor that instantly transports you to Tibet (well, kind of). Atlas Studios is where blockbuster dreams collide with a Home Depot reality. One minute you feel like a film star, the next – like an unpaid extra in a school performance. From the outside: majestic temples and luxury palaces. Up close: polystyrene, plywood and wooden scaffolding. The whole thing looks like a Monty Python sketch come to life. It’s epic – and totally absurd.

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Monkey Grove and Urbex Adventures in a Sanatorium and Monastery –Fes surroundings

Gosia — Sun, 10 Aug 2025 16:30:53 +0000

A monkey grove and urbex in a sanatorium and monastery – these three places are located not far from the famous city of Fez. Just a short trip outside the city and you’ll find scenery straight out of a B-movie horror movie, a nature documentary, or… a banana commercial. If you have a penchant for abandoned, strange, and slightly eerie places, and you’re not afraid of meeting a poker-faced monkey, then you absolutely must see these three unique places. Abandoned Tuberculosis Sanatorium – Ben Smim A hidden gem for any urban exploration aficionado, this old TB sanatorium sits deep in the forest near the village of Ben Smim. The road leading there meanders through scenic green landscapes, with the vast Michlifen dam reservoir looming in the distance. It might seem like the road leads to a charming resort, perfectly integrated into its natural surroundings. Instead, an eight-floor concrete complex looms on the horizon, making it the perfect setting for a B-film about a haunted clinic. The sanatorium was established in 1955 and operated vigorously until 1965, when it was taken over by the state. As you can see, state interference in something that functions efficiently, regardless of latitude, ends the same way 😀 It took the Moroccan government only 10 years to put an end to this facility. After its closure, the building was abandoned and looted to the ground. Furniture, medical equipment, and anything that could be carried off were gone. The interiors are dilapidated, but the atmosphere of a bygone era is still palpable, especially when you hear slamming windows and creaking doors… Cèdre Gouraud – the Monkey Grove Mafia Near the sanatorium lies a unique attraction – the “Monkey Grove,” where, for a change, the main characters are monkeys. At first glance, you might think it’s a unique spot. The Middle Atlas Mountains, towering cedar trees, and wildlife – a scene straight out of National Geographic. However, as soon as you get out of the car, you realize that a rather effective cooperation is at work here. Suddenly… a monkey tugs at your pants, staring deeply into your eyes with utter determination. Being primates, you understand each other without words; subconsciously, you know he’s asking, “Where are my peanuts?” – a passive-aggressive, but in a simian style. And that’s when vendors appear with a full assortment of monkey delicacies. What’s more interesting is that the monkeys know how to behave and are very sociable. So it’s best to bring your own provisions, and I might add that bananas are the most popular here😉 Tioumliline – The Rebel Monastery The third attraction in this bizarre triangle is Tioumliline – an abandoned monastery with a political past. “Tioumliline” means “white stones”, and it was founded in 1952 by Benedictine monks, who set up a clinic and a school here. All was going well until the monks decided to take sides in Morocco’s independence struggle. After Morocco gained independence, the monks doubled down on their activism, which made them a bit of a headache for the new authorities. Eventually, in 1968, the monastery was shut down. But it didn’t fade into complete obscurity – in 2009, it starred in the film Of Gods and Men, gaining a second life on screen. Although it’s currently closed and undergoing renovations, it’s still worth a quick stopover if you’re driving south from Fes. The surroundings are peaceful, the history spicy, and it’s got that “forbidden” urbex charm. The area around Fes is more than just a pitstop en route to the south. It’s a chance to dive into the offbeat, the abandoned, and the bizarre – the kind of Morocco that doesn’t make it into glossy travel brochures. A derelict sanatorium, a politically active monastery, and a monkey-run cedar forest. Sounds like a fever dream? Maybe. But it’s exactly these odd combos that make for the best stories.

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Essaouira, Morocco

Gosia — Sun, 20 Jul 2025 15:50:33 +0000

Essaouira is one of those Moroccan cities that’s well worth a visit. Instead of the usual maze of narrow alleyways and a chaotic medina, here you’ll find a neat grid of streets, whitewashed houses with blue shutters, and a fresh breeze straight off the Atlantic. While it may not be as famous as Marrakesh or Fez, Essaouira has its own story, its own vibe, and more than a few solid reasons to swing by. The city’s history goes all the way back to Roman times, when traders dealt in a precious dye known as Tyrian purple (which I wrote about here). It was extracted from a particular species of sea snail found along the coast. The dye was used to colour garments across the Roman Empire. Later came the Portuguese – who, as they tended to do, got busy building fortresses in far-flung exotic spots. In 1506, they built one here and called it Mogador. Then in the 18th century, the area came under the control of the Sultan of Morocco, a man who appreciated both order and the finer points of French urban planning. Thus was born the city of As-Suwaira – meaning “beautifully designed” in Arabic. The French, gave it the more melodic name Essaouira. Essaouira is a whole different city compared to Fez or Marrakesh. It feels more orderly and a bit more European. The city is a blend of Arabic and European architecture, with white houses and blue shutters giving off Greek island vibes. Throw in the Arabic atmosphere and you’ve got yourself a rather intriguing mix. However, the best city’s attraction are the defensive walls. On the ocean side, two bastions – known as skala – guard the city. One of them, Skala de la Ville, sits right next to the old town. Back in the day it protected the city from pirates; nowadays, it offers great views over the medina and the sea. The second bastion, Skala du Port, as you can suppose is located right by the port, where you’ll find a fleet of iconic blue fishing boats. There’s a unique local energy here. At the fish market, you can watch hardened Essaouira locals haggling. From the port, you get a great view of the medina. The place also pulls in tourists – thanks largely to Game of Thrones. This places is Astapor in the series. Essaouira is also known as the “Wind City” – which sounds quite poetic until you’re chewing sand halfway through your beachside lunch. Still, it’s exactly that wind that brings windsurfers and kitesurfers here from all over the globe.

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“The Hills Have Eyes” Gas Station – Moroccan Horrorwood

Gosia — Sun, 29 Jun 2025 09:59:44 +0000

At first glance, it’s just a rusty old gas station in the middle of nowhere. But get a little closer, and suddenly you feel as if you were participating in a B-grade horror film. And not without reason – this is the actual filming location of The Hills Have Eyes (2006), a remake of the 1977 classic of the same name.To be honest, I haven’t watched either version. However, visiting the abandoned set was unsettling enough on its own 😅. The station is located near the town of Ouarzazate, often dubbed the “Hollywood of Morocco.” American filmmakers fell in love with this place – it’s basically like sunny California but on a budget.Fun fact: movie sets built in Morocco are often just left behind in the desert after filming. No one bothers to clean up the props or tear down the decorations. It’s a perfect environment for urban exploration fans. The station is located in the middle of absolute nowhere – no signs of civilization, just a barren, mountainous, semi-desert landscape. From the distance, it looks like run-down gas station but peek through the window, and things get creepy. Dust-covered cans, glass jars, faded posters from the ’60s, peeling paint on the walls – all of it adds up to a seriously eerie vibe. Needless to say, you won’t fill your tank here. In the abandoned garage next door, you’ll find scattered props, old tires, and tools that I’d rather not know how they were used in the film. The area is “decorated” with gutted, rusting American cars – perfect for an apocalyptic photo shoot (or another horror movie). A dark atmosphere is also created by dolls hanging on the tree. Even though it’s been almost 20 years since the movie came out, the station is still in surprisingly good shape. It may not be a high-class monument, but it is definitely a place worth seeing that is not offered by travel agencies.

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