New Zealand -

Auckland – a metropolis on a volcanic minefield

Gosia — Sun, 19 Apr 2026 16:49:40 +0000

Auckland isn’t actually the capital of New Zealand, though it tries very hard to look like it is. Historically, it did hold that title between 1841 and 1865. Today, its modern business district, with towering skyscrapers and cosmopolitan cafés, still feels like the country’s command centre. The city regularly ranks high in quality-of-life surveys, because life here is simply good. Sure, it’s more expensive than other parts of New Zealand, but that clearly doesn’t put anyone off, least of all tourists. Auckland can boast a pretty unique setting. It sits on the Auckland Volcanic Field, a volcanic area made up of roughly 50–53 volcanoes. They’re all dormant now, but the field as a whole is still considered active. What could have been a drawback, the city has turned into a feature. Many of these volcanoes have been converted into parks and viewpoints. The locals have a wonderfully pragmatic approach, if you’re going to live on a volcanic minefield, at least make sure it comes with a nice view. I started my day at Mt Eden, or Maungawhau – the highest point in the city and one of the most photogenic spots in Auckland. It’s a dormant volcano, 196 metres tall, whose last eruption was around 28,000 years ago. At the top sits a massive bowl-shaped crater, about 50 metres deep. A short walk up is rewarded with panoramic views of the entire city, its ports, bays, and other volcanoes. It’s worth remembering that the crater is a sacred site for Māori, so you shouldn’t stray from the marked paths. Mt Eden’s history has another, rather unexpected twist. The stone viewing platform at the summit was built in the 19th century with the help of… an elephant. At the time, the volcano’s slopes were heavily quarried, and the basalt extracted was used to build houses, Mt Eden Prison, and the platform itself. Māori workers and prisoners laboured here but one of the workers was also an elephant called Tom. Tom came to New Zealand as a gift for Prince Alfred, Queen Victoria’s son because, back in the 19th century, if you couldn’t think of a present for an aristocrat, you just gave them an elephant (and this one wasn’t a white elephant). During the sea voyage, he carried tonnes of coal, and upon arriving in Auckland, his strength was put to work hauling heavy blocks of stone up the slopes of Mt Eden. For his efforts, he was paid in sweets and beer, because health and safety, animal welfare, and common sense were treated rather loosely back then. Tom didn’t stay in New Zealand permanently; he ended up in Europe, and his remains can now be seen at Trinity College Museum in Dublin. The platform, meanwhile, still stands and continues to offer one of the best views in the city. From Mt Eden, I headed towards Karangahape Road, known to everyone as K’ Road. It’s one of those streets that doesn’t pretend to be all metropolitan chic. It’s packed with cafés that definitely don’t shut when the bedtime story ends. K’ Road is famous for simply being alive loud, diverse, and without pretence. It’s a bit arty, a bit rebellious, but never boring. Next up was Albert Park, one of the oldest parks in Auckland, established in the 19th century. It sits on a volcanic hill right in the heart of the city, and you can still see the massive trees that remember the park’s early days. The grounds include gardens and the Auckland Art Gallery, but what you can’t see at first glance lies underground. Beneath the park is a network of World War II-era tunnels, built as air-raid shelters. They’re closed today, but knowing they exist gives a whole new perspective on the place. From there, I walked to High Street. It’s the sort of place where you can shop, grab a good coffee, have dinner, or just sit with a glass of wine. Vulcan Lane, a narrow alley between the main streets lined with cafés, is particularly charming. While in the area, it’s worth popping into Giapo – the cult ice cream shop. They serve a Kiwi classic: Hokey Pokey, vanilla ice cream studded with chunks of toffee. Just nearby is Viaduct Harbour, a waterfront district full of restaurants, bars, and cafés overlooking the marina. Auckland is often called the “City of Sails”, with over 135,000 registered yachts and boats, and the Waitematā Harbour and Hauraki Gulf sometimes look like a giant parking lot for people who don’t entirely trust life on land. From almost anywhere in the city, you can spot Auckland’s icon – the Sky Tower. At 328 metres, it dominates the skyline and is the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere. If you prefer something a bit quieter, head to Parnell, Auckland’s oldest and one of its most stylish suburbs. Charming architecture and plenty of restaurants and cafés make it a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. Auckland was the last place I visited in New Zealand. And I’m glad I saved it for last — it perfectly summed up the country’s diversity. Ending a trip in a place like this is a bit like closing an adventure book, knowing full well you’ll want to open it again sometime.

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Auckland, Devonport – the fort that never fired… and the fake news that built it

Gosia — Sun, 12 Apr 2026 16:44:26 +0000

It takes barely a few minutes to ride a ferry from central Auckland to Devonport – a place that seems to exist in a completely different reality. Devonport lies between two extinct volcanoes that not only shaped its history but also perfectly symbolise it. At first glance, it looks like a calm, almost sleepy Auckland suburb: wooden houses, cafés, restaurants, kids fishing in the bay with Auckland’s skyscrapers in the background… but that’s just the surface. Beneath it lies a turbulent past that once made Devonport one of the most strategic locations in the region. Right next to the ferry terminal rises Mount Victoria, an 87-metre volcanic cone. It may not sound impressive in terms of height, but the view from the top certainly is. The strategic importance of this spot was recognised long ago. First, Māori built their pā (fortifications) here to control access to the harbour. Later, the British followed suit. In 1885, four three-ton guns were installed, and in 1898 a massive 8-inch Armstrong Elswick gun was placed on the summit on a so-called disappearing carriage. Thanks to a hydraulic platform, the barrel could retract into a concrete pit after each shot, protecting the crew from counterfire. The gun was fired only once – launching a shell weighing around 95 kg over a distance of 8 km. The reason it was never used again? Shattered windows and a very effective local residents’ protest. Today, the gun can still be seen on Mount Victoria in its original condition. Nearby stood Fort Victoria, complete with a magazine, shelter and observation post, connected by telephone to other coastal defence fortifications. One of the bunkers now serves as a concert venue for a local band. Mount Victoria is just the beginning. The real heavy artillery of Devonport can be found on the second extinct volcano, North Head (Maungauika). The climb alone explains why this spot was chosen for defence – the 360-degree views are spectacular. The fort on North Head, built in the late 19th century, was never used in combat. It was constructed as a result of… a fake news story from 1873. Reports of a Russian warship, the Kaskowiski, allegedly landing hundreds of soldiers in Waitematā Harbour caused widespread panic and exposed serious weaknesses in New Zealand’s coastal defences. The response was a new fort, complete with disappearing guns, tunnels and bunkers. The defence system consisted of three artillery batteries: North Battery, aimed at the Rangitoto Channel; South Battery, guarding the inner harbour; and Summit (Cautley) Battery on the top of the hill. Walking around North Head, you can still see gun emplacements, observation posts with mural-covered walls, and wooden barracks from 1885, connected by tunnels to the Summit Battery. Nearby, it’s worth visiting the Torpedo Bay Naval Museum, which explores the history of the Royal New Zealand Navy. The location itself is historically significant, as the site once formed part of Auckland’s defence system. The museum boasts one of the largest naval history collections in New Zealand. Admission details and current prices can be found on the museum’s website. Devonport – practical information Ferries between Auckland and Devonport run regularly, with a crossing time of around 10 minutes. Services depart from Pier 1, Ferry Terminal at 99 Quay St, with roughly 30 sailings throughout the day. The easiest way to pay is with an AT HOP card or contactless payment (credit or debit card, Apple Pay, Google Pay or Samsung Pay). When boarding and exiting, remember to “tag on” and “tag off” using the same card or device. Paper tickets can also be purchased from ticket machines or at the customer service centre. Up-to-date fares and timetables are available on the Auckland Transport (Ferry Terminal – Downtown ↔ Devonport).

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New Zealand, day one: a birthday at the end of the world

Gosia — Sun, 29 Mar 2026 16:18:50 +0000

I will never forget my first day in New Zealand. It was my birthday, and it was exactly how I’d imagined it – far from home, at the end of the world. Those first days are always stuck in the memory best – they set the tone for the whole trip. And knowing I had 18 days of adventure ahead only cranked up the excitement. Karekare Falls – 30 metres of watery adrenaline The first stop was Karekare Falls in the Waitākere Ranges Regional Park. A short, half-kilometre walk leads to a 30-metre waterfall surrounded by palms and lush, exotic vegetation. Mercer Bay Loop – a walk with views and Māori history Next up was the Mercer Bay Loop Track. This 2.2-kilometre loop leads to Te Ahua, a place of significance for Māori, with jaw-dropping views over the west coast. A high cliff, wind whipping your hair, waves smashing into the rocks… can you imagine a better backdrop? Piha, Lion Rock and Kitekite Falls – beach magic Piha is a stunning, wide beach, dominated by its icon: Lion Rock. This ancient volcano, shaped like a reclining lion, looking at the ocean. Right next to it is another curiosity – the Keyhole Natural Tunnel. A natural tunnel carved into the rock, looking like a gigantic eye of a needle. Not far away, you can wander to Kitekite Falls – a charming waterfall reached via a trail winding through palm forest. Whites Beach and Anawhata Beach Track – almost deserted corners You don’t need to go far to reach another spectacular viewpoint – Te Waha Point Lookout. From here, you get sweeping views of the coastline and the almost deserted Whites Beach. The lookout is reached via the Laird Thomson Track, a pleasant walk through New Zealand’s rolling green fields. The Anawhata Beach Track leads along cliffs, through lush forest, to a small, beautiful beach where you’ll often meet… well, no one at all. Bethells Beach (Te Henga) – the raw power of the Tasman Sea But the real show-stealer is Bethells Beach. This is one of those places where you genuinely feel like a castaway. Wild coastline, vast stretches of sand, emerald-coloured water – the perfect spot to surrender to the power of the Tasman Sea. For the persistent, there’s a 10-kilometre coastal route waiting. Tirikohua Point – the end of the world Tirikohua Point is a little-known, and therefore even more atmospheric, stretch of the west coast of the North Island. A trail through wild pasture and waist-high grass leads to towering cliffs that look like the literal end of the world. The route is under 2 kilometres – a small price to pay for having a beach all to yourself. Muriwai Gannet Colony Beach The trip ends at Muriwai Gannet Colony Beach – a must for nature and bird lovers. Muriwai impresses with its black volcanic sand and dramatic cliff-lined coast. And that’s how the first day in New Zealand – and my birthday at the edge of the world – came to an end. Just one day, but so packed with sights that it felt like I’d lived a hundred already 😄

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Mt Taranaki in New Zealand: an intelligence test and practical info

Gosia — Sun, 22 Feb 2026 16:15:10 +0000

I arrived at Egmont National Park in the afternoon. The main star of the show, Mount Taranaki, was of course hidden in the clouds so it did exactly what I’d expected. There was no point in attempting a longer hiking, so I opted for the light version: Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools. As soon as I crossed the park boundary, it felt like I had stepped into an entirely different reality. A narrow, winding road led through a dense green tunnel, creating an almost fairytale-like landscape. To save time, I decided not to drive all the way to Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and stopped earlier, right at the trailhead. A short walk through the moss-covered forest felt like travelling through another dimension, as if designed by someone on a heavy psychedelic trip. Soon after, an 18-metre waterfall appeared. It looked incredible, without even a drop of exaggeration 😉 The trail to Wilkies Pools was a pleasant change. It led through a more “civilised” forest and across a suspension bridge. Wilkies Pools are tiny waterfalls with overflow pools, perfect for a natural spa. On the way back, the clouds finally parted, and I caught sight of Taranaki in the distance. It was late, so trekking was off the table, but I headed to the viewpoint at North Egmont Visitor Centre. And that’s when it hit me how utterly surreal this place is. The road was as flat as an IKEA table, and then, suddenly, a perfect volcanic cone rose right in front of my car. Absurdly close, far too close for something that should ideally be admired from a safe distance—or at least in the photo. I had never seen anything so unreal. The closer I got, the more it dominated the landscape. Clouds hung over it as if it was about to erupt. There was something beautiful and slightly terrifying about it. Enchanted, I drove back to my accommodation, watching Taranaki in the rear-view mirror. I left the rest of the points for the next day, unaware that fate had a little intelligence test in store for me… one that I spectacularly failed. The next morning, I rose at dawn. I planned a trek to Pouakai Reflective Tarn, followed by a drive to the coast near New Plymouth. However, while eating breakfast, I decided to complicate the day for myself. How else can one describe the attempt to remove an avocado stone with a knife? Result? I stabbed my hand with full determination. I’ll spare you the gruesome details, but watching the scene made me feel faint… really faint. The cut was narrow but deep, opening with every finger movement and hinting at an “exciting” day ahead. Giving up on the planned route was out of the question—I had bandages and zero common sense. Thanks to having an automatic car, I could even reach the trail start. Driving with one hand wasn’t too tricky, but tying my hiking boots felt like relearning shoelaces after years of Velcro. The frustration was total and absolute. The trail was single-themed: wooden boardwalk, steps, more steps, even more steps. The weather was cloudy, hope for Taranaki’s reflection in the water – minimal. Blood pumped, bandages disappeared quickly. Still, I pressed on with the hope of seeing one of New Zealand’s most photogenic spots. In perfect conditions, Mount Taranaki reflects in the water of Pouakai Reflective Tarn like a mirror. In my case, perfect conditions exist only in theory. Dense clouds made it almost impossible to see anything, and the “large” tarn turned out to be a small pond. The descent was even worse. Bandages ran out, blood dripped, and I started attracting more and more curious hikers. The steps felt endless; my only focus was to get back to the car and head to a pharmacy. The pharmacy solved the problem with special plasters that sealed the wound enough to avert further crisis. Was it worth it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Of course. Will I use a spoon next time? Definitely 😀 Trail Info Wilkies Pools & Dawson FallsThe trailheads are marked on the map below. Both can be done as a longer loop. The Wilkies Pools & Dawson Falls Loop is just under 4 km, with a 225 m elevation gain, taking 1.5–2 hours. Pouakai Reflective TarnSeveral trails lead to Pouakai Reflective Tarn. A popular option is the Mangorei Track Trailhead. I initially planned the Pouakai Circuit starting at Kaiauai Car Park, but reviews suggested it was more challenging. Given my earlier misadventures and general survival instinct, I chose the easier route from Mangorei Road Car Park.One-way is 6 km; standard return time is 5–6 hours. I did it in 3 hours plus 30 minutes of bandage changes, which effectively threw off my rhythm. Most of the trail is wooden planks, which get slippery when wet. Monotonous and tedious, but without them, it would be a mud bath.The first stop is Pouakai Hut (about 5 km in), with free toilets. From there, just 1 km to Pouakai Reflective Tarns along a relatively flat path.

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Road trip in New Zealand

Gosia — Sun, 15 Feb 2026 16:24:18 +0000

A road trip in New Zealand is not a way of getting from one attraction to another, it is the attraction itself. That said, I have to say this straight up: New Zealand does not have amazing road infrastructure. And that genuinely surprised me, especially given how popular the country is with tourists. Because of the terrain, most roads are mountainous, narrow, single-lane serpentines. And paradoxically, that’s brilliant. Every route is an experience, and a road trip around New Zealand could easily be the main point of the journey rather than just a means of getting somewhere. Driving technically demanding roads surrounded by mountains, lakes and vast empty spaces delivers unforgettable impressions. That enjoyment, however, is sometimes taken away by the technical condition of the roads. Some look as if they’ve been stuck in a never-ending state of roadworks for years, while others are simply rough and uneven. Extra caution is needed on rainy days, as water-filled ruts can catch you out and make skidding dangerously easy. Still, to be fair, the quality of the roads needs to be viewed in context. New Zealand has only around 5.2 million inhabitants spread over 268,000 square kilometres. For comparison, Poland covers 312,000 square kilometres but has more than six times the population. As a result, a significant number of roads run through complete wilderness, and stretches of 100 kilometres without any sign of civilisation are nothing unusual. There’s a certain charm to that, even if the tarmac occasionally disappears beneath your wheels. Navigation and fuel The low population and limited urbanisation directly affect the number of petrol stations. In New Zealand you really have to keep an eye on your fuel level, as there are stretches where you won’t find a single petrol station for over 100 kilometres. Sometimes there are warning signs, but it’s far from guaranteed. I stuck to a simple rule: never let the tank drop below half. Petrol 91 usually cost me between NZD 2.50 and 2.70 per litre (2025). Before leaving, it’s worth installing the Gaspy app, which shows the cheapest petrol stations nearby. The most sensible option is to refuel in larger towns, where prices are noticeably lower. It’s also a good idea to download offline maps, because in New Zealand mobile signal can disappear faster than petrol. Road tolls At present (2026), there are only three toll roads in New Zealand: the Northern Gateway Toll Road north of Auckland, the Tauranga Eastern Link, and Takitimu Drive. Full information is available here. The tolls are low, usually around NZD 2.50 (2025). Payment is made online by entering the vehicle’s registration number, and forgetting to do so is not an option. You have five days from the date of travel to pay; otherwise, you’ll receive a fine. Toll roads are clearly marked, with large signs spelling out the payment obligation well in advance. Traffic rules New Zealand drives on the left, so sticking to the left-hand side is absolutely essential, and roundabouts are entered the “wrong” way compared to right-hand traffic – clockwise 😉. It’s important to follow the rules carefully. Even though the driver sits on the right-hand side of the car, speed limits are metric, not imperial. The maximum speed nationwide is 100 km/h, although some sections allow up to 110 km/h. In towns and cities, the standard limit is 50 km/h, with some areas reduced to 30 km/h. It’s also worth remembering that parking against the direction of traffic can result in a fine. From my observations, local drivers genuinely stick to the rules. I hardly saw any police on the roads, speed cameras and average-speed checks are rare, and they are usually clearly signposted. Car hire Hiring a car in New Zealand is straightforward. You’ll need your driving licence as well as an International Driving Permit. Before the trip, I came across information stating that the permit should be issued under the Geneva Convention, as New Zealand is a signatory. On the ground, rental companies also accepted licences issued under the Vienna Convention, but in hindsight I think it’s safer to get the Geneva one. I didn’t have any encounters with the police, so I didn’t check this in practice, but better safe than sorry. There are plenty of well-known rental companies on the market. I saw a lot of cars from Jucy on the roads, a brand I hadn’t known before – maybe not in huge numbers, but they were hard to miss. I chose a local company, Bargain Rental Cars, as I was travelling solo and focused on keeping costs down. On the North Island, I was given a 2008 Nissan Tiida. It had clearly seen better days and was definitely not a head-turner, but it drove, which was all I needed. On the South Island, things changed dramatically: for the price of a mini car, I got a 2022 Toyota Camry Hybrid. That car made my holiday. At first, I was happy about saving money on fuel thanks to the hybrid system. In reality, I just drove even more, because it was such a pleasure to drive. Altogether, I covered nearly 6,000 kilometres on New Zealand roads, and it was one of the most incredible experiences of the entire trip. Every route was an adventure in its own right, and I honestly feel like I could drive there endlessly, even without a specific destination marked on the map.

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Rotorua – an unpredictable city

Gosia — Sun, 01 Feb 2026 15:17:19 +0000

You can smell Rotorua from a distance. Long before you see the city sign, the air is already thick with the distinctive scent of hydrogen sulphide – best compared to rotten eggs. This is the perfectly natural side effect of intense geothermal activity in the area. And yet, the stench doesn’t scare tourists away. Rotorua is one of the main tourist hubs on New Zealand’s North Island. It’s also jokingly called Roto-Vegas, thanks to its abundance of neon lights and bars. Other nicknames include Sulphur City and Rotten-rua and each of them reflects the specific atmosphere of this city. Geothermal features are everywhere. Rotorua sits right in the heart of the Taupō Volcanic Zone – one of the most geologically active regions in New Zealand. Naturally hot water has been considered a gift from the gods by local communities since time immemorial. The hottest springs were used for cooking, the warmer ones for bathing, and houses were built on heated ground that worked like natural underfloor heating. Of course, geothermal activity has its downsides. Houses in Rotorua don’t have basements – digging could easily end with discovering yet another hot spring. The same goes for cemeteries: graves are built above ground. For locals, geothermal activity is simply part of everyday life. A short walk to the city centre brings you to Kuirau Park, where you’ll find hot springs, steaming rocks and bubbling mud pools. Everything is free to access – including a foot-soaking pool. On the other side of the town lie the Government Gardens. Thanks to the area’s therapeutic properties, a spa was established here in 1908. Skin conditions, rheumatism and arthritis were treated here. What’s surprising is that even at the end of the world, the place looks similar to European spa towns. You’ll find all the classic elements: distinctive spa architecture, thermal pools and a landscaped park. A lakeside promenade runs along the shore of Lake Rotorua, where you can spot sulphur-rich water and numerous water birds carefully avoiding spots where sulphurous steam shoots up from the ground. Rotorua is also a major centre of Māori culture. Māori people form the largest proportion of residents here compared to any other city in New Zealand. The best place to explore their traditions is Te Puia – a Māori cultural centre located in the former geothermal valley of Whakarewarewa. Visits are guided by a Māori guide and last about 90 minutes. Te Puia is also one of the few places where you can see the kiwi, New Zealand’s national bird. As kiwis are nocturnal, they’re kept in a specially designed dark enclosure where photography is strictly forbidden. You can also visit schools of carving, weaving and jewellery-making, and learn about hāngi – the traditional method of cooking food in underground ovens using hot stones. This technique hasn’t changed for hundreds of years and is still practised today. At Te Puia you can sample traditional Māori cuisine and watch a haka performance. The real star of the show, however, is the Pōhutu geyser – the most active geyser in the Southern Hemisphere. It erupts on average every half hour, shooting water and steam 20–30 metres into the air. Pōhutu’s activity was once seriously threatened. Numerous private drillings carried out by residents searching for geothermal water caused a drop in the geyser’s output. Only a programme of sealing artificial boreholes restored Pōhutu to its former glory. Around the geyser, hot rocks allow you to literally feel the heat rising from deep parts of the Earth. Hell’s Gate is another geothermal attraction in Rotorua. Definitely it’s not an ordinary geothermal park. It’s the most active geothermal area in New Zealand, and the name is no marketing gimmick. As the name suggests, it really is hellish. Everything steams, bubbles and looks like it’s about to explode. With every step, you can feel the raw energy coming from beneath the ground. The walking route is marked out by wooden boardwalks that look suspiciously like emergency rafts. Everything around you looks like faded, grey and barren. Even the names spark the imagination: Devil’s Cauldron, Sodom and Gomorrah, Inferno Pool. In many places, the temperature of the bubbling sludge reaches 100°C or more. Add steaming ground, gurgling mud lakes and hissing fumaroles, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for a truly infernal landscape. Within the park there’s also a mud volcano that works exactly like a classic volcano – except instead of lava, it spits out hot mud and puts on an unscheduled show every few weeks. It’s the largest mud volcano in New Zealand’s reserves. While most mud volcanoes are about one metre tall, the one at Hell’s Gate reaches three metres and keeps growing, adding new layers of mud with each eruption. Thankfully, in the middle of this geothermal hell there’s a surprise: a green enclave filled with unique plants thriving thanks to the heat and mineral-rich soil. Hidden among the vegetation are Kakahi Falls – the largest hot waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere, with water at around 40°C. In the past, Māori warriors bathed here after battles, washing off blood and treating wounds. The sulphur in the water acted as a natural antiseptic. Hell’s Gate is also home to Medicine Lake, the source of Rotorua’s famous therapeutic mud. For centuries it was used to treat pain and skin conditions. Today, the mud is used in a spa that you can access for an additional fee. Mud pool sessions are limited to twenty minutes, as longer exposure to the heat could lead to overheating. Hell’s Gate offers three types of healing mud: black for rheumatism and arthritis, white for burns, and grey for gentle skin exfoliation. This place can be harsh and occasionally unsettling. The raw, washed-out colours don’t exactly encourage to take Instagram sweet selfies – and that’s precisely why Hell’s Gate is so compelling. It lets you experience, up close, the immense power hidden beneath the Earth’s surface. Rotorua – predicting the unpredictable Rotorua is an unpredictable city. Many attractions lie in seismically active areas, so common sense isn’t optional – it’s mandatory. All warnings and safety notices must be taken seriously. On top of that, Rotorua is a major tourist centre, which unfortunately comes with a darker side. Petty crime rates are higher than the national average, with car break-ins being the most common issue. Thieves particularly favour car parks near hostels, tourist attractions and trailheads. The rule is simple: don’t leave valuables in your car – not even “just for a minute”. Rotorua is a city of contrasts – beautiful and fascinating, yet also unsettling. The air smells of sulphur, the ground steams beneath your feet, and geysers and mud volcanoes constantly remind you of the immense force of the Earth. At the same time, Rotorua is the heart of Māori culture and a spa town where nature and tradition intertwine in a truly unique way. To experience it all properly, it’s worth booking tickets to Te Puia and Hell’s Gate well in advance.

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New Zealand, the road to Milford Sound

Gosia — Sun, 18 Jan 2026 17:01:09 +0000

The road to Milford Sound is not some boring “getting-there” exercise – it is the attraction. I’ll admit it was the only place I decided to visit in full lazy mode, on an organised tour. At first, I toyed with the idea of driving myself – after all, I had a rental car. In the end, common sense won. I knew it was one of the last days of my fairly intensive trip, and the route from Queenstown to Milford Sound and back is nearly 300 kilometres each way, which in New Zealand terms means roughly eight hours behind the wheel. And honestly? Best decision ever. I love driving, but to my surprise, by the end of the trip I couldn’t stand the sight of a steering wheel. Instead, I could sink comfortably into my seat, take out my camera and take photos non-stop – because there was plenty to photograph. The most interesting part of the journey starts in the town of Te Anau. From here, the drive to Milford Sound is supposed to take just over an hour and a half… in theory. In reality? Not a chance. There are so many viewpoints and places worth stopping at that driving straight through is basically impossible. First stop: Lake Te Anau. A vast lake with crystal-clear water, surrounded by mountains – a perfect teaser of what awaits in Fiordland National Park. Just a few minutes further on, you suddenly feel like you’ve wandered onto the set of The Lord of the Rings. The legendary Misty Mountains from The Fellowship of the Ring are, in fact, the Eglinton Valley. An endless glacial valley framed by snow-capped peaks – properly epic. Right next door are the Mirror Lakes – small pools that, in good weather, let you see the mountains upside down 😀 It’s also worth stopping at Lake Gunn – a slightly larger lake, hidden away in the forest. A bit further along is Falls Creek, an unassuming stop right by the road that’s easy to miss. The waterfall here practically pours onto the tarmac, and a short bridge offers a fantastic viewpoint over the cascades and the intensely blue water. Next up is Monkey Creek, a mountain stream with crystal-clear water flowing straight from the glaciers. As you get closer to Milford Sound, the landscape becomes increasingly harsh and alpine – wide valleys give way to sheer granite cliffs, and the air turns noticeably crisper. And then comes Homer Tunnel, a 1.2-kilometre passage carved by hand through solid rock at an altitude of 945 metres above sea level. Construction took 19 years. No lights. No ventilation. Just pickaxes and stubborn determination. With a bit of luck, or bad luck you might encounter a kea before the tunnel: an alpine parrot that clearly does not recognise the concept of “private property”. These intelligent, slightly unhinged birds treat car parks like their personal playgrounds: rummaging through backpacks, trying to get into cars, and enthusiastically chewing on rubber car parts like windscreen wipers. If a kea takes an interest in your vehicle, the best strategy is to lock the doors quickly and pretend you don’t exist. After all these attractions, driving through the dark, narrow tunnel feels like a quiet epilogue to the whole adventure. After a road packed with views, waterfalls and parrot-based sabotage, entering the tunnel works like a brief reset – before the landscape hits you again with double force on the other side. Beyond the tunnel lies Cleddau Valley. A steep valley where hairpin bends snake between granite walls and waterfalls spill almost directly onto the road. In winter, the area can be completely impassable due to avalanches; in summer, it’s wet, raw and absolutely spectacular. From here, only a dozen or so kilometres remain to Milford Sound – but every single metre builds the tension. When you finally arrive, it feels like you’ve completed your own personal odyssey. Milford Sound is not a road you simply “drive”. It’s a road you experience. Find out more about Milford Sound here.

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Milford Sound, New Zealand – the sound that turned out to be a fjord

Gosia — Sun, 11 Jan 2026 14:43:12 +0000

Milford Sound is a pretty peculiar place. It can get so wet here that the direction of the rain seems to defy the laws of gravity – the water quite literally flies upwards. And as if that wasn’t enough, the area is patrolled by a gang of parrots specialising in… breaking into cars. It sounds like a disaster zone, yet it’s the most popular attraction in New Zealand. The name, however, does its best to mislead visitors. Milford Sound isn’t really a “sound” at all, but a fjord – and one of the most spectacular in the world. How is that possible? Let’s go back to geography class for a moment. A “sound” is simply a flooded river valley in a V-shape. A fjord, on the other hand, is carved out by glaciers and has those characteristic steep, rocky walls. Milford Sound was sculpted by a glacier during the last Ice Age. When the ice retreated, the Tasman Sea simply poured in and filled the valley. The result? Fifteen kilometres in length, almost 300 metres deep, with rock walls rising 1,200–1,700 metres straight out of the water. So yes, “sound” and “fjord” might rhyme, but something is definitely off. So where did the confusion come from? Naturally, from Europeans. It wasn’t enough for them to nearly wipe out the kiwi population, they also had to mix up a fjord with a sound. In fact, Milford Sound was initially bypassed by European explorers. Its narrow entrance didn’t look promising, and ship captains, including the famous James Cook, were afraid to sail too close to the steep mountains. The fjord remained unnoticed until 1812, when Captain John Grono discovered it and named it Milford Haven after his home region in Wales. Later, John Lort Stokes renamed it Milford Sound – and that name stuck. Towering mountains aren’t the only challenge in Milford Sound. The second one is the weather, or rather the chronic lack of good weather. Milford Sound is a place where it rains on average around 183 days a year, with annual rainfall exceeding six metres. So as I set off towards Milford Sound, I had zero expectations when it came to sunshine. Murphy’s Law works flawlessly for me: if it can rain somewhere, it will definitely rain when I’m there. And yet, to my surprise, when I arrived the sky was completely clear. Even though all that rain sounds like a very effective tourist repellent, it’s actually the main driving force behind the entire spectacle. Without it, there wouldn’t be hundreds of waterfalls. Two of them are particularly special: Lady Bowen Falls, 162 metres high, and Stirling Falls, “only” slightly shorter at 151 metres. The rest are seasonal waterfalls that appear after heavy rain, streaming down almost vertical rock faces. And as if that wasn’t enough, the rain and wind sometimes team up in ways that are frankly at odds with physics. Under the right conditions, the waterfalls can be blown upwards. Strong gusts of wind, the shape of the fjord and the sheer volume of water mean the streams get pushed back into the air. That’s not the only distinctive feature of Milford Sound. Huge amounts of fresh water flowing down from the mountains form a thin layer on the surface, which floats above the salty waters of the Tasman Sea. The result is the fjord’s characteristic dark, almost inky colour and conditions where just 10 metres below the surface it is as dark as at much greater depths in the open ocean. Perfect conditions for marine life – less so for photographers. The true star of the show, though, is Mitre Peak – a mountain rising almost vertically from the water’s surface to 1,692 metres. It’s one of the most photogenic mountains in New Zealand and one of the highest in the world to rise directly out of the sea. The best way to see Milford Sound up close is to take a cruise along the fjord. It lasts around two hours and delivers the full package of experiences. On top of the otherworldly landscapes, you can spot numerous seals lounging on Seal Rock, dolphins, and with a bit of luck even Fiordland crested penguins. No wonder Rudyard Kipling called this place the eighth wonder of the world.

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New Zealand, Kaikoura – a post about dreams coming true

Gosia — Fri, 26 Dec 2025 14:38:58 +0000

Time for a post about dreams coming true. Hard to believe, but New Zealand for me was never the goal itself. In fact, this dream was born eight years earlier, in Hawaii. Quite by accident, during one of the boat trips, I found out that I had been this close to seeing whales.Well, not exactly close — more like a seven-mile step away, because I should have planned my trip six months later. That dream was promptly added to my bucket list and filed away in a drawer labelled “long-term”. Until the day tickets to New Zealand landed in my inbox. And then it was clear: now or never. I started planning the trip by checking one crucial thing — whether my path and the whales’ path could finally cross. The answer was Kaikoura. Why Kaikoura is a whale-themed Disneyland Let’s start with the name. “Kaikoura” comes from kai (to eat) and koura (crayfish). So right away you know what this place is about: food. And rightly so, because Kaikoura is basically an oceanic all-you-can-eat buffet. It wasn’t always this wholesome. Until 1964, Kaikoura was a whaling station. The hunting was so efficient that whales simply started running out, and the business died. Quite literally. Today, Kaikoura is exceptional mainly thanks to the Kaikoura Canyon — over 1,000 metres deep and located practically right off the coast. Cold currents from the south collide with warmer ones from the north, mixing an oceanic cocktail and pushing huge amounts of nutrients to the surface.The result? An all-inclusive canteen for marine life — whales included. That’s why Kaikoura is one of the best places in the world for whale watching. It’s one of the few places where sperm whales live year-round, with humpbacks, orcas, long-finned whales, blue whales and other XXL-category creatures dropping by seasonally. Life is not a film The first whale I saw on the trip was a sperm whale. It surfaced, took a few calm breaths… and disappeared with grace. That was it. A moment later, my eight-year-old dream collapsed like a house of cards. Because in my head I had a Free Willy poster moment: breaches, fountains of water, dramatic music. Instead, I got a brief glimpse of a fin. Sperm whales are 15–20 metres long, weigh 40–60 tonnes and surface roughly every 45–55 minutes to breathe. They take a few solid breaths, shoot a one-metre plume into the air, and vanish back underwater. And when they dive, they don’t mess about — over 3,000 metres down. Breath-holding records? More than two hours. Inside their heads is over a tonne of spermaceti, an oily substance used for echolocation and buoyancy control. Humans once used it to make lubricants, creams and lipsticks.And ambergris — a luxury perfume ingredient? That comes from the intestines of sick or dead sperm whales. The show of a lifetime As I stood there staring at the ocean in mild resignation, a sightseeing helicopter suddenly roared overhead and the boat picked up speed. In the distance, I saw a plume of water. The cause of all the excitement? A humpback whale. What followed was an hour-long acrobatic performance. The humpback danced around our boat for so long that my arm hurt from holding the camera. Eventually, I gave up. I put the camera down and it was just me and the whale. No photos. No chasing the perfect shot. Just a moment meant to be lived, not documented. What I saw was extraordinary. It looked like a dance — and if whales can dance, this one was the Fred Astaire of the ocean 😀 Dolphins on performance enhancers Just when I thought the adventure was over, the boat sailed straight into a pod of dolphins.Not a few. Hundreds… They were jumping, racing the boat, playing. The dusky dolphins were completely unhinged — impossible to capture on camera. Pure chaos. Pure joy. Kaikoura delivers on land too On the way back to Christchurch, I stopped by the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway. Ocean in the distance, mountains in the background, and seals lounging on the shore — entirely uninterested in humans. Who to go whale watching with? I chose Whale Watch Kaikoura, boasting a 95% success rate.The trip lasts about 3.5 hours, and if no whales are spotted, they refund 80% of the ticket price.That said, don’t get your hopes up — whales are detected by sonar, so refunds are rare. When to go? Sperm whales and dolphins can be seen all year round.Humpbacks appear from June to August, while orcas show up between December and March.

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