Northern Ireland -

The Causeway Coastal Route – Northern Ireland

Gosia — Sun, 05 Jan 2025 15:26:16 +0000

The Causeway Coastal Route in Northern Ireland is one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe. This picturesque road stretches almost 200 km, winding through cliffside coasts, green hills and the historic castles of the Emerald Isle. Mussenden Temple – the first stop on the way The first stop is the picturesque Mussenden Temple. This remarkable structure, inspired by Roman temples, was commissioned by a wealthy earl who wished to create his private library here. From the outset, Mussenden Temple has captivated visitors not only with its architecture but also its spectacular cliff-top location. Unfortunately, this location carried the risk of erosion and potential collapse of the building. In 1997, due to the cliff’s unstable condition, intensive efforts were undertaken to restore its stability. Although the interior of the Temple is currently closed to visitors, its location is breathtaking. The picturesque landscape from the cliff is the sufficient reason to visit this place. Near the Temple, you can see the ruins of Downhill House, also known as Downhill Demesne. The house was built in the 1770s by an eccentric bishop. The bishop was known for his passion for art and architecture, evident in the monumental structure and unique style of the residence. Unfortunately, due to a fire in 1851 and subsequent neglect, the house fell into ruin, but its remnants still make a profound impression. Portrush – Colorful Houses and the Wishing Arc Continuing along the coast towards the east, it’s worth making a brief stop in the charming town of Portrush. This place is famous for its wide beach and colorful row of terraced houses. Just beyond Portrush, you’ll find the viewpoint known as The Wishing Arch, from which you can admire the incredible panorama of the Irish coastline. Bushmills: A Visit to the Kingdom of Whiskey Of course, a tour of Northern Ireland wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the town of Bushmills. This small, unassuming town is renowned for being home to one of the oldest whiskey distilleries in the world. Established in 1608, Bushmills is a major export product of Northern Ireland. Whiskey is such an integral symbol of the Emerald Isle that it is featured on Irish banknotes. At the distillery, you can witness the entire whiskey production process, starting from fermentation, through triple distillation and maturation, to the bottling process. Bushmills prides itself on its unique, delicate flavour achieved through triple distillation. The tour culminates in a tasting session, where you can even sample a 21-year-old whiskey, which can cost up to £160 per bottle. Unfortunately, as the driver, I could only enjoy the aroma of the whiskey. Giant’s Causeway The town of Bushmills is close to one of the greatest attractions of the coast – Giant’s Causeway. It is a must-see during a visit to Northern Ireland. Giant’s Causeway appears as an intricately laid path of thousands of hexagonal basalt columns. This unusual rock formation was created 50-60 million years ago during the Paleogene period, when intense volcanic activity led to the eruption of basaltic lava. As the lava cooled, it cracked into characteristic, polygonal columns that we can admire today. Giant’s Causeway is not only extraordinary rock formations but also amazing views of the coastline. The cliffs surrounding this place add dramatic character and charm to it. To reach Giant’s Causeway, the most convenient way is by car. There’s parking right by the trail, which costs £10. Alternatively, you can take bus route 402 from Bushmills. Buses depart from Main Street, and you can park at the Park&Ride. It’s good to know that access to the trail is free for visitors. However, visiting to the Visitor Center, which offers interactive exhibitions explaining both legends and scientific facts about the site, requires an entry fee. Admission costs around £16 per person (£8 discount ticket) as of 2024. This ticket also includes parking and an audio guide. Many people unintentionally pay this amount, thinking it covers walking trail which is free. Guided tours are also available on-site for those interested in gaining a deeper understanding of the history and geology of this unique place. Further information can be found here. Ruins of a Castle on the Green Cliff Another attraction of the northern coast is located just a 10-minute drive from Giant’s Causeway. These are the ruins of Dunseverick Castle, which history dates back to the 5th century. The castle was repeatedly attacked by Vikings and destroyed by the Scottish army in the mid-17th century. Supposedly it hasn’t been rebuilt since then. Continuing further east, it’s worth making a short stop at the viewpoint overlooking White Park Bay. Regardless of the weather, the incredible view of the coastline is guaranteed! Adventurers seeking unforgettable experiences will certainly not be disappointed with the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. This famous rope bridge spans a deep chasm, offering not only thrills and adrenaline but also spectacular views of the coastline and surrounding cliffs. The suspension bridge is 30 meters above the rocks and connects the small island of Carrickarede to the mainland. It’s considered one of the most dangerous bridges in the world, primarily because its structure is not very stable during high winds. The bridge is now solely a tourist attraction, but for centuries it was used by local fishermen. Built in 1755, its original construction was quite makeshift, consisting only of wooden planks stretched across the chasm, with a single handrail rope. The current structure has been reinforced to allow relatively safe passage. However, on very windy days, the bridge is closed for safety reasons. Practical Information: The bridge is open from spring to autumn, but it’s advisable to check current opening hours before your visit as they may vary depending on the season and weather conditions. There’s an entrance fee for the bridge, and tickets can be purchased online or on-site. It is recommended to buy tickets in advance, especially during the tourist season. Castle – White Head One of the advantages of the Causeway Coastal Route is that attractions are located within about a 10-minute drive from each other. Such a short drive from Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is enough to see the ruins of Kinbane Castle. Kinbane Castle was built in 1547 by Colla MacDonnell of the Scottish MacDonnell clan, lords of the Western Isles of Scotland. The only access point was a descent down the basalt cliff, as the castle was nearly inaccessible from the sea side. Over the centuries, the castle changed hands several times, and local tradition suggests it may have been inhabited until the 18th century. The name “Kinbane” comes from the Irish “Ceinn Bán,” meaning “white head,” which refers to the rocky limestone headland on top of which the castle sits. From the viewpoint terrace, you can also admire the spectacular cliffs and the nearby Rathlin Island. The Fair Head – Cliffs Overlooking the Island A bit further along is the walking area known as The Fair Head. The Fair Head boasts the highest basalt cliffs in Northern Ireland, reaching heights of up to 200 meters. These cliffs stretch for several kilometers, forming a picturesque landscape that attracts tourists. From here, you can see spectacular views, including the nearby island of Rathlin in all its splendour. Amazing views are also guaranteed from nearby Torr Head. The name Torr in the local Gaelic language means a mound. Torr Head is the furthest point the closest to Scotland. In 1822, a coastguard station was built at the top of the cliff, the ruins of which can be seen today. A steep uphill road leads to the station. From the summit, you can enjoy an incredible view of the coastline. At the end, cliffs once again… At the end of the trip is worth visiting Gobbins Cliffs, located near Belfast. The cliffs are accessed via a path leading through steel walkways suspended over the turbulent sea. The history of the path dates back to the early 20th century. It was designed by engineer Berkeley Deane Wise and opened in 1902. Recently renovated in 2015, it’s now one of the most fascinating attractions in Northern Ireland. The entire route offers unique views of the rocky coastline. The Gobbins Cliffs are open from spring to autumn. Before planning your visit, it’s advisable to check current opening hours and ticket availability. Due to high popularity, advance online ticket reservation is recommended as seating is limited for safety reasons. More information, you can find here. Taking a drive along the Causeway Coastal Route is a great idea for exploring Northern Ireland. Each stop along this route presents a fascinating history and incredible views. Some attractions promise a good dose of adrenaline, while others allow you to step back in time and discover the amazing history of Northern Ireland. However, every place offers spectacular views that will stay in your memory for a long time.

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Northern Ireland: The Magical places from Game of Thrones

Gosia — Sat, 24 Aug 2024 15:23:19 +0000

I remember it like it was yesterday, waiting with bated breath for the next episode of “Game of Thrones.” It was one of those series that I watched with full attention. Therefore, visiting Northern Ireland, I was determined to see the epic locations that served as the backdrop for this show. The Emerald Isle became one of the primary locations for this production. Personally, I can’t imagine “Game of Thrones” without the specific dark aura and rugged landscape of Ireland. So, what secrets of Westeros does this island hold? The first stop are the ruins of the 16th-century Dunluce Castle, which served as the inspiration for Pyke, the seat of House Greyjoy. Although only the walls of the castle remain, it still makes an incredible impression. The stark walls look quite photogenic on the high cliff and give the impression that the entire structure might collapse into the sea at any moment. Further south, you’ll find the Dark Hedges – currently the most popular tourist attraction in Northern Ireland and also the most frequently photographed spot. The Dark Hedges is an avenue lined with uniquely twisted trees, famous from the series as the Kingsroad. Indeed, if you were to remove the asphalt and add a bit of a dark atmosphere, you could feel like you’re on the set of “Game of Thrones.” Traveling along the picturesque coastline of Northern Ireland, it’s worth stopping at The Fullerton Arms. This bar is located at the hotel of the same name and holds a special attraction for fans of “Game of Thrones.” As soon as you enter, you are greeted by doors intricately carved from trees from the Dark Hedges, unfortunately destroyed during a storm in 2016. These majestic trees were part of the famous Kingsroad, so as a natural consequence, they’re used to create these iconic doors from the series. However The Fullerton Arms is just the beginning of the “wooden” adventure. Traveling along the northern coast of Ireland, you can embark on the “Journey of the Doors“. This unique route takes us through various restaurants and bars where thematic wooden doors are displayed, depicting scenes from the sixth season of “Game of Thrones”. Interestingly, these doors are placed in locations where the series was filmed, making this journey even more special. To make this trip more interactive, it’s worthwhile to get a special passport where you can collect stamps from each visited location in the world of Westeros. Below is the door from Mary McBride’s Bar. The next stop on the route is Larrybane Quarry. At first glance, the place may seem unassuming, but it was used in “Game of Thrones” as a backdrop for Renly Baratheon’s camp. It was here in the second season that Brienne of Tarth fought with Ser Loras Tyrell in a tournament before King Renly and his new wife, Queen Margaery Tyrell. Continuing south, it’s worth making a short stop to visit the Cushendun Caves. Formed around 400 million years ago due to erosion, these caves may not be so spectacular, but they are definitely worth visiting. It was here that Melisandre gave birth to a strange shadow creature that subsequently murdered Renly Baratheon. The last point probably doesn’t need much introduction. Castle Ward is a picturesque estate situated on the shores of Strangford Lough lake, which became one of the key filming locations for Westeros, specifically – Winterfell, the seat of House Stark. The Winterfell Castle looks exactly like it does in the series, with its distinctive gate resembling scenes of the Stark family’s arrival at the estate, and the courtyard where Eddard Stark taught his sons martial arts. The castle dates back to the 18th century and is characterized by interesting architecture. Part of this estate is built in the Neoclassical style, while the other part is in the Gothic style. The Stark Castle is located within a vast estate that features many walking paths and picnic spots. Castle Ward is about a 40-minute drive from Belfast. It’s best to get there by car, but there is also an option to take an organized tour from the capital of Northern Ireland. Northern Ireland offers breathtaking landscapes and landmarks that takes you straight into the world of “Game of Thrones”. Whether someone is a fan of the series or not, I guarantee that these amazing places will enchant everyone.

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Belfast and (London)Derry – in short, The Troubles…

Gosia — Sat, 22 Jun 2024 13:31:36 +0000

Belfast had been on my travel bucket list for a looooong time. My initial plans to visit the capital of Northern Ireland were thwarted by COVID, but as I’m stubborn as hell I finally made it there this year. So, why has Belfast intrigued me for so long? There are two reasons: one is quite significant, and the other is rather quirky. Let’s start with the significant one. The main reason for my visit was to witness the city’s transformation after nearly 30 years of bloody conflict. I wanted to see firsthand how Belfast had healed and evolved since the Troubles. Has peace truly taken root, and what does the city’s current reality look like? The second reason is more whimsical. I have a peculiar fascination with cities that start with the letter B, especially those that have faced or are facing various challenges. It might sound odd, but cities like Beirut, Bagram, and Baghdad give me a unique thrill. So, you can probably guess which destinations are next on my list 😉 As we delve into the topic of this post, let’s begin with a brief historical introduction. Conflicts in Ireland date back to the Middle Ages, beginning with the settlement of the island by the Kingdom of England. From the outset, Ireland strove for full independence, which it finally achieved in 1921. However, Northern Ireland remained within the United Kingdom. The Irish Republican Army (IRA) played an active role in the fight for freedom, and its subsequent goal became the liberation of Northern Ireland. The IRA was not solely a military organization; its political wing was Sinn Féin party. The most tragic period in Northern Ireland’s history was between 1969 and 1998, known as the Troubles. The term “the Troubles” seems a rather inadequate description for three decades of conflict that claimed over 3,500 lives. This term was coined by the British, as the United Kingdom deliberately downplayed the internal issues to avoid showing weakness on the international stage. As with most global conflicts, religion was conveniently used to justify the Troubles. They were portrayed as a religious conflict between Catholics, also known as Republicans or Nationalists (the Irish), and Protestants, also known as Unionists or Loyalists (the British). However, the primary reasons for the bloody strife in Ireland were territorial and social issues. However, to truly understand the reality of Belfast, it’s essential to know the history of its notable places. One such place is the Crown Liquor Saloon, the most famous pub in Belfast. As you enter, you’ll notice a distinctive mosaic on the floor depicting the British Crown. Apparently, the bar was named according to the wishes of the owner’s wife, who was a unionist. Meanwhile, the owner himself—a republican—placed the crown on the floor as a form of protest, so that customers entering the bar would step on it. Opposite the pub is the Europa Hotel, nicknamed the most bombed hotel in Europe. Since its opening in 1971, it has been bombed 36 times. The hotel appears in season three, episode 11 of the TV series “Sons of Anarchy.” Right next door is the Grand Opera House, which has been targeted by bomb attacks only twice. The next day, I continue my tour of Belfast, starting in the southern part near Whiterock Road. The walls are adorned with murals and posters that serve as a manifesto of the local community. Interestingly, not all of them appear old; some look as if they were created recently. Many of the murals reference the general right of nations to self-determination and the respect for human and minority rights. It’s evident that republicans identify with other oppressed nations seeking justice. Heading north along Falls Road, I reach the so-called Interface areas, the flashpoints where republicans and unionists live side by side. To prevent conflict escalation, “Peace Lines” have been established here. These walls, which can be made of brick or steel and are 6-7 meters high. It’s impossible to cross directly to the area inhabited by unionists; I have to go back to find a way around the wall. However, I manage to “cheat the system” by finding an open gate. The Peace Line walls can be seen in many places. During the day, they remain open, allowing the free movement of pedestrians and vehicles. However, in the most volatile areas, they are reportedly still closed at night. Meanwhile, on the other side – the republican one, the murals appear to be much more radical. The most prominent ones can be found on Shankill Road. It was here, during the Troubles, that a gang of serial killers known as the “Shankill Butchers” operated, brutally murdering randomly chosen victims from the republican community. Many murals glorify the activities of the UVF (Ulster Volunteer Force), a terrorist-paramilitary organization of Northern Irish unionists that still remains active. The UVF orchestrated terrorist attacks targeting republicans. Meanwhile, on the republican side, only a handful of murals mention IRA. A place that particularly divides republicans and unionists is the city of two names: Londonderry and Derry, located right on the border with Ireland. Derry is the name used by republicans, while unionists prefer Londonderry. (London)Derry is one of the largest cities in Northern Ireland. Its main tourist attraction is the defensive walls built in the 17th century. Reportedly, these walls were never breached and remain one of the best-preserved fortifications of that kind in Europe. However, few tourists coming here have heard of this attraction. The city is mainly associated with an event known as Bloody Sunday. On January 30, 1972, the Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association (NICRA) organized a peaceful protest against a law allowing British authorities to intern people without trial. During the protest, riots escalated, leading the British Army to open fire on the crowd. As a result, 14 people were killed. Bloody Sunday heightened hostility towards unionists and intensified the actions of the Provisional IRA. The memory of this event remains vivid among residents. Black-and-white photographs with poignant descriptions can be seen on fences, serving as a reminder of the tragedy. The history of Bloody Sunday can be explored at the Free Derry Museum, which opened relatively recently, on June 15, 2017. Nearby the museum, numerous murals and posters serve as reminders of the dramatic history of (London)Derry. Of particular note is a mural depicting a young boy wearing a gas mask and holding a Molotov cocktail. It was painted in 1994, during the onset of peace talks. However, what caught my attention the most were the posters scattered throughout the city. They indicate that the conflict has not ended and that the memory of the bloody events is still deeply rooted in the consciousness of the residents. Similarly to Belfast, one can also observe that the republican community supports the independence movement of Palestine. To sum up, despite many years passing since the end of the conflict in Northern Ireland, the memory of the Troubles seems to remain vivid among the residents. Both the center of Belfast and (London)Derry appear to be vibrant, welcoming cities. However, upon closer look, signs of social tensions that led to the Troubles can still be discerned. It appears that the Troubles still exist but are swept under the carpet. Find out more about Northern Ireland here.

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Northern Ireland – abandoned places

Gosia — Sat, 15 Jun 2024 15:09:21 +0000

From the 19th century to the early 20th century, Northern Ireland was the center of the textile industry. A reminder of these times are numerous factories that have been preserved in relatively good condition to this day. What’s more interesting, although access to these places is easy, they aren’t demolished. The only factors shaping their unique appearance are the passage of time and nature, which takes control of these places from year to year. The first industrial complex I visited was built in the 1820s. In its heyday, the main product produced in this factory was linen. This facility makes an amazing impression due to its interesting industrial architecture. Tall chimneys, characteristic red brick and windows give an idea of the scale of this place. Inside you can see huge halls where are the remains of textiles. Remnants of lighting hang from the ceiling, and the windows are decorated with greenery. A little further there’s another textile industry facility. This factory was built only 20 years later than the previous one. In its heyday, it reportedly employed over 15,000 workers. Enough yarn was produced here in a week to circle the Earth three times. Moreover, the yarn was exported from here all over the world, even to such distant countries as Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. During World War II, the facility served as a secret training centre. At that time, British, Belgian and American soldiers were staying here. Due to heavy competition from China, the factory was finally closed in 1986. A third, equally large factory was also established in a similar period. Unfortunately, it was impossible to get inside. Northern Ireland is famous not only for its abandoned factories. The abandoned theatre made an incredible impression on me. Although it was created only 50 years ago, it’s currently in an advanced state of decomposition. I honestly admit that during the exploration I felt quite insecure walking on the wooden floor that was collapsing. The beautiful ornate ceiling with a glass chandelier, despite being impressive, seemed as if it was about to collapse on my head. However, it wasn’t just an impression. You can see in the photos that it is slightly tilted. Its damage probably accelerated the degradation of this place. There is a lot of water inside the building, which negatively affects wooden elements. Another interesting place that Northern Ireland has to offer is an abandoned village, located in the picturesque surroundings of the mountains. Walking between the farms, you can travel back in time and see what rural life was like in Ireland in the 19th century. Once upon a time, the village was self-sufficient, people were planting crops and fishing. However, isolation and lack of prospects for young generations resulted in emigration. In the mid-20th century, it had only six inhabitants. The last person to survive here until 2013 was a monk from a nearby abbey. It doesn’t seem surprising, who else could live like a hermit? Apparently, scenes from the famous Game of Thrones series were filmed in the village.

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