Southern Europe -

Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana

Gosia — Sun, 21 Sep 2025 11:36:55 +0000

I started the route towards central Albania in the town of Teth. The first point of my trip was Cape Rodon, also known as the Cape of Skanderbeg. This is definitely a place you must visit while being in Albania. Actually, I could point out three reasons why it’s worth coming here. The first are bunkers, which I wrote about here. The second one is the castle built by Skandenberg in 1452, to defend against the Ottoman Empire. Although it was a hiding place for Skandeberg for a while during the siege of Kruja in 1466, it was destroyed by the Turks only a year later. Currently, only the remains of the former fortress can be seen here. Unfortunately part of it was swallowed by the sea. However, the last and probably the most important reason why this place is at the top of the attractions list are the amazing views. An amazing panorama of Tirana and the surrounding area can be admired from Mount Dajti, located to the east of the capital of Albania. You can reach the peak by car, on foot or by the Dajti Express gondola lift. Following the coast southwards, I reached Durrës – one of the oldest cities in Albania. Durrës is currently the second largest city in Albania, after Tirana. Currently, it’s mainly a tourist resort with all the advantages and disadvantages of this type of place. Durrës was founded by the Greeks in 625 BC, and then during the times of the Roman Empire it was an important trading center. Moreover, in the years 1913-1920 it was the capital of Albania. In the city center there’s a Roman Amphitheater, which is one of the largest facilities of this type in Western Balkans. Apparently, in its heyday, when gladiator fights took place here, it could accommodate up to 20,000 viewers. In the mid-4th century, it was partially destroyed by an earthquake. From Ottoman times it remained buried and forgotten for many years. Only in 1996 was it accidentally discovered during earthworks. Currently, the amphitheater, surrounded by urban buildings, looks quite strange. It would seem that nothing has changed here since the archaeological works. It is completely neglected and littered. Unfortunately, this perfectly illustrates the basic problem of Albania, the lack of use of its tourist potential. Near the amphitheater there are the ruins of the Byzantine Forum and the rotunda. They were built around the 5th century and were an important trading and decision-making centre of the city. Unfortunately, as you can see in the attached picture, they suffer the same fate as the amphitheater. The most surprising thing is that both archaeological sites are located right next to the main square of Durres – Sheshi Liria. The Grand Mosque is also located next to the square. It was built in 1931 and was the largest mosque in Albania at that time. During Hoxha’s dictatorship, the minaret was demolished and the mosque itself remained closed. Both the square and the mosque look modern and seem to have been recently renovated. Meanwhile, nearby monuments of great historical value remain neglected. Actually, while walking around Durrës, I had the impression that this city had a problem with its own identity. Modern buildings mix here with typical socialist housing estates and abandoned places. Apparently that’s its charm 😉 The rest of Durres is typical tourist folklore, with all the kitsch of seaside towns. A sandy beach, a large selection of accommodation, restaurants and other attractions attract many tourists here. Personally, I’m not a fan of this type of places, but I still think it’s worth coming here, even for the amazing view of the sunset from the promenade. From Durres, I decided to go to the capital of Albania – Tirana. Tirana is quite a compact city and I think that one day is certainly enough to visit it. The central point of Tirana is Skandenberg Square with the monument to Skandenberg – the national hero who repelled the attacks of the Turks. Near the square is the Ethema Bey Mosque. The mosque is said to be the oldest structure in Tirana. However, I wonder how it fit into the landscape of Skandeberg Square at a time when statues of Stalin, Lenin and Enver Hoxha stood nearby. It is worth adding that during Hoxha’s dictatorship, Albania was a secular state where any religious practices could result in imprisonment or deportation to a labour camp. What’s more interesting, the Stalin statue was only removed in 1991 during a student demonstration against the socialist regime. Right next to the mosque there’s a huge Bunk’Art 2 nuclear shelter. Inside there’s a museum dedicated to the times of the most radical communist system in Europe, which existed during the rule of Enver Hoxha. The victims of Hoxha’s regime are also commemorated by Post Bllok – a monument located in a representative part of the city on Dëshmorët e Kombit boulevard. Obviously it’s a bunker, which is the most tangible symbol of dictatorship. Another interesting structure that can be seen in the centre of Tirana is the Pyramid. Even though it looks quite modern, appearances can be deceiving. It was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter, in honour of her daddy. It was intended to serve as the dictator’s mausoleum. It survived in this form until the fall of the regime. Currently, it has been renovated and serves as a modern art centre. This spot seems to be a favorite place for tourists as well as residents of Tirana. There is nothing surprising, especially when visiting it at sunset. Tirana also aspires to be a modern European capital. The urban space is diversified with artistic installations, such as “Cloud” made of steel rods. At the end of the visit to Tirana and central Albania, to feel the local atmosphere of the city, it’s worth visiting the New Bazaar (Pazari and Ri). You can buy there local products, antiques and souvenirs, or simply observe the life of the locals.

Artykuł Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana pochodzi z serwisu .

Ljubljana – a slightly psychedelic city of dragons

Gosia — Sun, 24 Aug 2025 15:36:05 +0000

Ljubljana is one of those cities that’s impossible not to like. Time seems to move slower here, and instead of the traffic jams and rush typical of other European capitals, the city charms with its intimate, relaxed atmosphere. The city’s most iconic landmark is the Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most). It was built to replace an old wooden bridge that collapsed during an earthquake in 1895. Initially, the plan was to decorate it with winged lions, but in the end, four dragons took the stage. Local legend has it that if a virgin crosses the bridge, the dragons will wag their tails. In practice? Well, let’s be honest – traffic on the bridge is pretty heavy, and the dragons remain stubbornly still. Beyond the Dragon Bridge, three other bridges are worth checking out. One of the oldest is the Shoemakers’ Bridge. Like the Dragon Bridge, it used to be wooden. Back then, it was lined with butcher shops, but the stench proved unbearable, so the authorities ordered them to relocate. Shoemaking workshops moved in instead. Speaking of butchers, Ljubljana also has the Butchers’ Bridge (Mesarski most). Built in 2010, it’s the youngest of the city’s bridges. Today, instead of meat, it’s covered in love locks and quirky sculptures. The most charming of them all is the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje), located at Prešeren Square, the heart of the city. From here, you get a lovely view of the Ljubljanica River and the Franciscan Church. The Triple Bridge is right next to Cankarjevo Nabrežje, the famous riverside promenade full of cafés, eateries, and live music. In the medieval centre, there’s a street that literally stares at you from beneath your feet: Ključavničarska Street, the Locksmiths’ Street. Its cobbles are adorned with hundreds of strange bronze faces. The faces create a surreal scene that stretches all the way to Mestni trg, the city’s oldest square, home to the Town Hall and Robba Fountain. On the other side of the river lies the elegant Congress Square, surrounded by historic buildings including the Slovenian Philharmonic and the University of Ljubljana. The best view of the city spreads from Castle Hill. Ljubljana Castle, or Ljubljanski Grad, towers over the city from 375 metres above. You can walk up in about 10–15 minutes for a free cardio session, or take the funicular that starts near the Central Market. The ride itself is an attraction. Once up there, you can explore the castle courtyard and the Chapel of St. George for free. The watchtower offers a fantastic panoramic view over the city. For a different vibe, head to the Metelkova district. Built on the site of former Austro-Hungarian barracks from 1911, today it’s a riot of colourful murals and psychedelic sculptures, where the parties can go on until the early hours – you can imagine the vibe 😉. The Slovenian government has tried several times to shut Metelkova down, but each attempt was met with resistance from local activists. Today, tourists come armed with cameras, artists with spray paint, and locals keep protesting – Metelkova still walks a fine line between legality and rebellion. In the modern part of the city stands another bizarre monument: the Cyanometer. Created by an artist Martin Bricelj Baraga, it measures the blueness of the sky. Over three metres tall, this column compares the sky above to a full colour palette and uses that to assess air quality. The principle is simple: the more “photoshopped” the blue, the cleaner the air. Faded colours indicate moisture and airborne particles. A local measuring station supplies data, which the Cyanometer displays on its surface along with the temperature. You can even track it online – because if it’s not on the internet, did it even happen? The installation appeared in 2016, coinciding with Ljubljana being named the European Green Capital. To round off your visit, head to the city’s largest park, Tivoli, where a distinctive castle now houses the Centre of Graphic Arts. Ljubljana may be small, but it’s full of character. Dragons, quirky sculptures, historic bridges, and the alternative world of Metelkova ensure you’ll never be bored, yet there are plenty of spots to relax away from the hustle and bustle typical of capital cities.

Artykuł Ljubljana – a slightly psychedelic city of dragons pochodzi z serwisu .

Malta – The Fortress Island, Girl on the urbex trail!

Gosia — Sun, 06 Apr 2025 13:02:28 +0000

Malta is called the “Fortress Island.” At first glance, it’s evident that the island’s architecture has a defensive character. High fortifications, citadels, and forts are reminiscent of the times of the Knights of Malta as well as the British era. Throughout its history, Malta was under the rule of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Crusaders, French, and British. Finally, it became an independent country only in 1964. Today, we can see numerous traces from the times of the Knights of Malta, as well as from the period of World War II. The Knights of Malta gained control over Malta in 1530 from Charles V of Spain. From that time, for the next 275 years, the island was under their rules. Many fortifications from this period were built to protect Malta from the Ottoman Empire. In 1565, they fulfilled their purpose, as Turkish forces unsuccessfully tried to capture the island for over three months. Many of these impressive fortifications can be admired today. Indeed, Valetta, seen from the sea, truly looks like a fortress city. During World War II, Malta was one of the most bombed countries in Europe. Due to its strategic location near Sicily, it was the target of continuous attacks by the Germans and Italians. Meanwhile, the British used the island to launch attacks on the Italian navy. In 1943, the Allies began their invasion of Sicily from Malta. This invasion was coordinated from the Lascaris War Rooms in Valetta. There was also a listening post here that intercepted German radio communications. Due to the numerous bomb attacks, Malta has many air-raid shelters. Some of the most interesting ones can be found in Mellieħa, Mosta, and Victoria on the island of Gozo. An interesting site is the fortification system built by the British in the late 19th century, known as the Victoria Lines. These fortifications were intended to protect the northern part of the island from potential attacks, but they were reportedly never used. The Victoria Lines stretch for 12 kilometers and are open for exploration. Some parts of the trail have been destroyed, so it’s best to visit the section known as the Dwejra Lines. This is the best-preserved section of the Victoria Lines. Moreover, the Dwejra Lines are also referred to as the Great Wall of Malta, and from a distance, this structure looks very impressive. The Dwejra Lines are located right next to the Our Lady of Hodegetria Chapel. Adjacent to the Victoria Lines is an old apiary, which adds to the attractions. Although the origin of the word “Malta” is not fully proven, it’s suspected to derive from the Greek word “Melite,” meaning honey-sweet. Malta was renowned for its unique honey produced by a distinct species of bees found only on the island. Some argue that some of these apiaries may date back to the times of Carthage and ancient Rome. It’s possible that these apiaries served different purposes in later periods. Carved into limestone rocks, they could have been used as catacombs or shelters during World War II. Another interesting structure built by the British before World War II is Fort Campbell, also known as Fortizza ta’ Selmun. The fort is located north of the Victoria Lines and was intended to protect Mellieħa Bay and St. Paul’s Bay. On the island of Malta, you can observe many pillbox bunkers scattered along the coastline. Each of these bunkers was equipped with firing positions and had an observation tower on top. Inside, they could accommodate about six soldiers. Some of them are located in very picturesque settings, such as the one near the town of Marsaskala. Next to it is the Riħama Battery. It was built by the Knights of Malta between 1714 and 1716. It formed part of a series of coastal fortifications around Malta’s shores and served to defend St. Thomas Bay. Today, a fairly large building stands on the site, which was once among the largest constructions of its kind in Malta. Inside, visitors can explore three rooms – the central one being the largest with an interesting arched ceiling, while the other two were smaller and supposedly used as storage for food and weapons. The battery saw action only once during Napoleon’s invasion of Malta in 1798. It ceased to be used in the 1820s and unfortunately has since fallen into ruin. However, abandoned places in Malta are not limited solely to military facilities. Malta is a popular holiday destination, but not all hotels are open to tourists. Some of them may not offer a luxurious stay, but they certainly provide a bit of adventure. One such place is the Jerma Hotel near Marsascala. It used to be a luxurious four-star resort built by the Libyan State Company Lafico. Due to this association, one of the hotel’s distinguished guests was Muammar Gaddafi, who had a presidential suite there. The Libyan dictator, Muammar Gaddafi, once maintained good relations with Maltese Prime Minister Dom Mintoff. The hotel ceased operations in 2007, but the exact reasons for its closure remain unclear. Near Mellieħa, there’s an abandoned tourist village called the Festaval Hotel, often mistakenly referred to as Festiwal. The facility was built in 1980 and operated for only about 12 years. Judging by its architecture, the hotel must have been exclusive. The apartments are spacious, and the view from the terraces overlooking Mellieħa Bay is stunning. Guests also had access to two pools. In 2018, there were plans to demolish it and build twelve luxury apartments with pools and a spa, but this project was never realized. On the island of Gozo, near Ramla Bay, there’s another abandoned resort complex called Ulysses Lodge. While the building itself may no longer be impressive, it offers an incredible view of one of the most beautiful beaches on Gozo. In the northern part of Gozo, there’s another interesting site, the Qolla l-Bajda Battery. This battery was built by the Knights of Malta between 1715 and 1716 as part of the coastal fortifications. It is also the northernmost structure of its kind. Currently, the site is in a state of disrepair, and one can hardly find any trace of its former architecture. The interior of the building looks as though it once served as a bar or nightclub before its closure. An additional attraction in the area is the salt pans, about which I wrote here. Near St. Julian’s, there’s an abandoned settlement known as White Rocks. It was built in 1960 for British soldiers stationed on the island. After the British forces left Malta, the settlement was converted into a holiday complex. On a vast area located right on the coast, you can see many buildings adorned with interesting murals. In the end, a real gem: an abandoned Subaru showroom, closed in the late 90s. Inside, you can see many vintage cars. They look like new; if you just pumped up the tires and charged the battery, I think you could go for a ride. The Fuji logo adds to the atmosphere of the place. Furthermore, the showroom is located in the center of the tourist town of Mosta.

Artykuł Malta – The Fortress Island, Girl on the urbex trail! pochodzi z serwisu .

Southern Albania – a ship in a field and a thousand windows

Gosia — Sat, 26 Oct 2024 16:35:38 +0000

I start my exploration of southern Albania in quite an unusual way – with a ship docked far from the sea, right in the middle of fields. This extraordinary sight resembles the Titanic in the Atlantic and is an evidence of the boundless Albanian imagination. Berat – “The City of Thousand Windows” In Berat, I stop for a moment to explore the castle ruins. Although little remains of the castle itself, its walls and the surrounding landscape create an incredible atmosphere. However, this is not the end of the attractions in this town. Berat is called “The City of a Thousand Windows,” and the name seems to fit it perfectly. The distinctive white houses with sloping roofs and large windows look incredibly photogenic. Osumi Canyon Continuing my journey along a picturesque mountain road, I reach Osumi Canyon. The canyon makes an incredible impression from the very beginning. Driving along the Osumi River is a true pleasure. Thanks to the river and the erosion it has caused, you can admire high rock walls reaching up to 100 meters. With 26 kilometers of length, there is no shortage of places to explore. The route is dotted with numerous viewpoints from which you can marvel at this amazing place. A popular attraction here is rafting, which is mainly organized in the spring when the water level is sufficient. Gjirokastёr: The City of a Thousand Stairs In Gjirokastёr, my main goal was to visit a Cold War bunker, as I mentioned earlier. However, the city has much more to offer. Gjirokastёr is known as “The City of a Thousand Stairs”. Additionally, Enver Hoxha, the leader of communist Albania from 1944 to 1985, was born here. While this fact may not be the best advertisement for the city, it holds a significant historical context. I’ve written more about Hoxha’s dictatorship and Albanian bunkers in another post. My first steps took me high up to the medieval fortress. Built in the 12th century and later expanded by the Ottomans, the fortress housed a prison for political prisoners during the Cold War era. From the fortress walls and the clock tower, there’s an incredible view of Gjirokastёr’s old town and the surrounding peaks. Inside the fortress, there’s also the wreckage of an American Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star, which made an emergency landing in Albania in 1957. The story of this mission still sparks controversy – whether it was an accidental flight or a reconnaissance mission. According to the American version, the pilot was flying from the military base at Châteauroux in France to Naples, Italy. Along the way, he got lost in dense fog and deviated from his course. Due to fuel shortage, he made an emergency landing in Albania. However, according to Albanian reports, the pilot was on a reconnaissance flight and was intercepted by Albanian People’s Army pilots, forcing him to land. Which version is true? You decide – this is an objective blog, after all! 😄 Returning to Gjirokastёr, this city is worth visiting not only for its charming old town. While Berat is known as the “City of a Thousand Windows,” Gjirokastёr is dubbed the “City of a Thousand Steps.” The Old Town indeed resembles a labyrinth of narrow and steep streets. For me, Gjirokastёr is particularly memorable for its distinctive architecture featuring white houses with grey roofs. Blue Eye and the Southern Coast On hot days, it’s best to visit the Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye). This spring is named for its resemblance to an eye’s iris. Although swimming is allowed here, few people opt for it due to the water temperature being a chilly 10°C (50°F). Blue Eye is nestled in the mountains, accessible via a short concrete path. Along the way, you can enjoy beautiful views of the mountains and a dam. Warmer waters, on the other hand, are plentiful along the coast. The southern part of Albania is renowned for excellent conditions for sunbathing and water sports. Unfortunately, during the peak season, the beaches are packed to the brim. Among the most popular are Lori, Paradise, and Ksamil beaches. The southern coast of Albania also offers many historical sites and viewpoints. Below is a picture of Sarandë with the Lëkurësi Castle in the background. The scenic mountainous route through Llogara Pass provides an incredible experience. Route SH8 stretches along the coast at over 1000 meters above sea level, connecting the Dukat Valley with the town of Himarë in the south. Traveling this 45-kilometer stretch offers breathtaking views and an unforgettable journey. On one side of the route, you can admire the Ceraunian Mountains, while on the other, spectacular views of the Ionian Sea unfold. On clear days, you can even see the Greek island of Corfu from here. The road through Llogara Pass is renowned as one of the most beautiful in Europe. Along the way, there are numerous viewpoints and hiking trails. Zvërnec: A Tranquil End to the Journey The final stop of the trip is Zvërnec. It is famous for its picturesque bunkers and the Monastery of St. Mary, located near the Narta Lagoon. The monastery is actually situated on a small island accessible via a wooden bridge. Built in the 13th century, its full name is the Monastery of the Dormition of Theotokos Mary. It’s a peaceful place, perfect for concluding a journey full of experiences in southern Albania.

Artykuł Southern Albania – a ship in a field and a thousand windows pochodzi z serwisu .

Comino – small is beautiful

Gosia — Sun, 20 Oct 2024 16:42:49 +0000

Comino is one of the unique places worth visiting when in Malta. It’s a small island located between Malta and Gozo, covering an area of just 3.5 km². This makes it an ideal spot for a day trip. The island is small enough to be explored on foot within a day. A path along the high cliffs guarantees incredible views. The island’s name comes from cumin, which once grew abundantly here. Comino has a rich history dating back to Roman times when it was mainly used for agricultural purposes. The Knights of Malta organized wild boar and rabbit hunts here. Comino was never really inhabited, mainly due to the lack of protection against corsairs. It wasn’t until 1618 that the Knights of Malta decided to build a watchtower here, which was intended to serve as an early warning system against Ottoman invaders and pirates. The tower was used as a communication point between similar towers on Malta and Gozo. Today, it’s the most distinctive building on Comino. It is located on an 80-meter cliff, offering an amazing view of the island. Right next to St. Mary’s Tower is an abandoned hospital, built by the British in 1890. The hospital served as an infectious disease hospital, treating patients with cholera and plague. Currently, Comino is inhabited by only a handful of people. There is no tourist infrastructure on the island. The only buildings here are St. Mary’s Tower, a chapel, a police station, and an abandoned pig farm. There is no hotel, and the only such establishment ceased operations in 2019. The island is not accessible to car traffic, making it an ideal place to relax. However, during the holiday season, it is crowded with tourists, mainly due to the Blue Lagoon, which is one of Malta’s main attractions. Indeed, the lagoon looks amazing. The crystal-clear water with an intense turquoise color makes an incredible impression. The Blue Lagoon is adjacent to the small islet of Cominotto (Kemmunett), which also offers excellent swimming conditions. The Blue Lagoon is predominantly a rocky beach. Due to its small size, it is unfortunately very crowded. An alternative for those who prefer quieter places could be Santa Maria Bay or San Niklaw Bay. Santa Maria Bay is the largest beach on the island. The water here is shallow, and it is visited by significantly fewer people compared to the Blue Lagoon. San Niklaw Bay, located in the northern part of the island, is particularly popular as an excellent spot for snorkeling. How to get there? Regular ferries depart from the port of Cirkewwa, located in the northern part of the main Maltese island. They usually run every 30 minutes, and the journey to the island takes the same amount of time. Trips are also available from the port of Mgarr on Gozo. A round-trip ticket costs €13 (€6.5 – discount ticket) – data from 2024. In addition, numerous travel agencies offer full-day trips to Comino.

Artykuł Comino – small is beautiful pochodzi z serwisu .

Popeye Village – Malta’s Disneyland

Gosia — Sun, 11 Aug 2024 10:27:51 +0000

Popeye Village wasn’t on my itinerary for exploring Malta. Generally, I avoid such places because I prefer to spend my time sightseeing. However, this time, when I saw Popeye Village from a distance, I decided to take a chance. The place looked so tacky and bizarre that I actually liked it. Popeye Village, also known as Malta’s Disneyland, is the most famous amusement park in Malta. It was created from scratch as a film set for the adaptation of the famous comic strip. The film was made in 1980, and you won’t guess who played the role of Popeye. It was Robin Williams. While Robin Williams was a famous actor, probably few people remember Popeye. He was a sailor whose favourite food was spinach. It was spinach that gave him superhuman strength. In the early 20th century, spinach began to gain popularity due to its health benefits. Therefore, Popeye’s fondness for this plant is not accidental. A can of spinach was a kind of product placement of those times 😉 Interestingly, his character was likely modelled on Frank “Rocky” Fiegel, who was the son of Polish immigrants. He lived in Chester, which was also the hometown of Popeye’s creator, Elzie Crisler Segar. Like Popeye, he had a heart of gold but a fiery temper. He didn’t have an eye and constantly smoked a pipe. The village is located on the northwest coast of Malta, about 2 km from Mellieha Bay, in the picturesque setting of Anchor Bay. The village was established in 1979, and its construction took only four months. The buildings were constructed from wood imported from the Netherlands, while the roofs were delivered from Canada. On a relatively small area, you can find plenty of attractions for both children and adults. On site, you can see the houses of the film’s characters, as well as a post office, bakery, dentist’s office, fire station, and a vegetable shop. Each of the buildings is accessible to visitors. Inside, there are themed design. We can feel like characters from the film, as the interiors of the houses are open to the public, and every exhibit can be touched. In the main square of the village, right next to the fire station, numerous games and shows are organized by animators. There’s also a corner with various games. The museum showcases items related to the film’s production. In a small cinema, you can watch a documentary on the making of Popeye Village and see clips from the movie. On hot days, visitors can combine sightseeing with swimming in the waters of Anchor Bay. The ticket price includes umbrellas and sunbeds, but their availability is on a first-come, first-served basis. Additionally, there’s a souvenir shop as well as bars and restaurants. Despite over 40 years since its creation, Popeye Village continues to enchant and surprise. The small, quirky cottages are incredibly charming. The abundance of details makes the place more authentic. The village embodies kitsch at its best. Its colourful palette and nautical style add a unique charm to the place. It’s so tacky that it’s actually beautiful. Popeye Village is open from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM, 5:30 PM, or 7:00 PM depending on the season. The entrance fee is €24 (from July to the end of September), a discount ticket for children costs €16. Ticket prices vary depending on the season. From late May to end of June and from October to November 5th, tickets cost €18 and €14 for children. In other periods, the ticket prices are €15 and €10 for children. All prices are for the year 2024. For detailed and current pricing information, it’s best to check here. The ticket price includes a map of the village, a coupon for popcorn and a postcard. During the high season, the ticket reportedly includes a boat tour around the bay. The easiest way to reach the village is by car, there’s a free parking available on site. Alternatively, public transportation is also an option. Bus number 101 runs between Mellieha Centre / Mellieha Bay and Popeye Village. To get Mellieha Centre / Mellieha Bay you need to take a bus from Valletta (41, 42), Sliema (222), and Bugibba (221). For current bus routes and maps, you can find more information here. For those who aren’t interested in visiting Popeye Village, there’s an option to admire it for free from a nearby cliff. From this viewpoint, you can see the village and the picturesque bay in its entirety.

Artykuł Popeye Village – Malta’s Disneyland pochodzi z serwisu .

One day in Gozo

Gosia — Sun, 07 Jul 2024 14:13:38 +0000

I start my tour around Gozo at the Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs, located on the southeastern coast of the island. This is one of the must-see places in Malta. From a height of over 130 meters, you can admire an amazing panorama of the Mediterranean Sea. A little further, you can admire an equally spectacular landscape at the so-called Sunset Cliff. To get to know the island not only from the perspective of the cliffs, it is worth visiting the capital of Gozo – Victoria, also known as Rabat. Victoria boasts interesting monuments and architecture. The main tourist attraction is the Il-Kastell citadel. Walking along the defensive walls, you can admire picturesque views of the surrounding towns. Within the citadel, there’s also the historic Cathedral of the Assumption. The old town is a labyrinth of narrow streets with houses adorned with interesting details. At the nearby market, you can find traditional Maltese products, handicrafts, sweets, and fruits. Local restaurants serve excellent Maltese cuisine. An absolute must-see is Dwejra Bay, located in the western part of the island. Here you can see impressive cliffs and interesting rock formations. Until recently, you could also admire the Azure Window, known from the Game of Thrones series. Unfortunately, in 2017, it collapsed due to strong winds, depriving Gozo of one of its main attractions. Currently, you can still admire the so-called Fungus Rock, also known in Malta as “Il-Ġebla tal-Ġeneral” (General’s Rock). It has an interesting history. Fungus Rock owes its name to a unique plant collected here by the Knights of Malta. It’s a dark brown, club-shaped, parasitic plant (Cynomorium coccineus) growing up to about 18 cm in height. Although it originates from North Africa, Fungus Rock is the only place in Europe where it can be found. In the times of the Knights of Malta, it was believed that its extract had strong healing properties. It was used to dress wounds because it stopped bleeding and prevented infections. Moreover, it was also supposed to cure dysentery, ulcers, and even venereal diseases. The plant was very popular, and its market value was high. When the Knights of St. John discovered it growing on a rock in Gozo, they knew they found a real treasure. A rope was stretched between the land and the rock, and collectors were transported back and forth on a small, one-person cable car. Moreover, in 1637, they built the Dwejra (Qawra) fortress to protect this precious medicine. They even cut down the rock slope to prevent access to the top of the rock. Next to it, there’s another attraction – the Inland Sea – a lagoon connected to the open sea by a tunnel carved into the 100-meter Dwejra cliff. The tunnel is large enough for local fishermen to organize boat trips through it. Until recently, this reservoir was used by fishermen for fishing. Nowadays, due to the large number of fish, it is an attractive place for diving. An interesting sight is the salt pans located in the northern part of the island near Marsalforn. These are shallow rectangular basins carved at the edge of the sea, which are flooded with seawater. As it evaporates, salt is formed. The northern part of Gozo is an ideal place for this type of production, which was known here since Roman times. Limestone rocks are found here, which could be shaped in any way. This traditional method of obtaining salt is still used today. The salt pans are adjacent to the Qolla l-Bajda Battery, which was built by the Knights of Malta in 1715-1716. I will write more about this place soon, in a post dedicated to abandoned places in Malta. Marsalforn is also known for the peculiar statue of Christ the Redeemer (Tas-Salvatur), located in an open field. It was built in 1970 on top of a hill. At the foot of the hill, there’re farmland fields that effectively prevent a trip to the top. A break in sightseeing is best taken at Ramla Beach, which is one of the most beautiful on Gozo. There are ruins of an abandoned hotel here, which I will also write more about in another post. On the way back, it is worth visiting a town Xagħra where you can see the historic Ta’ Kola Windmill. The windmill was built in 1725 on the initiative of the Knights of Malta. At that time, many such objects were built to encourage the local population to produce flour. Inside the windmill, there’s a museum of rural life. From the port of Ċirkewwa, located at the northern end of Malta, ferries regularly run to the port of Mġarr on Gozo. The ferries are operated by Gozo Channel Line and depart approximately every 45 minutes. The entire crossing takes about 25 minutes and is also available for cars. Prices are affordable: the transfer of the driver and car costs €15.70, while passengers pay €4.65 (prices from 2024). More information can be found here. Gozo is a place that impresses both in terms of history and nature. Although it’s smaller than the main island of Malta, it surprises with its unique landscapes, monuments, and interesting architecture. The history of this place is told by nature itself. The salt pans are a reminder of ancient salt production, and Fungus Rock tells an interesting story of the use of natural medicine.

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Albania – bunkers, Girl off the trail

Gosia — Fri, 16 Feb 2024 21:48:50 +0000

Albania is a country of bunkers, there are over 750,000 of them. They were built during the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha to defend the country in the event of an invasion. However, this invasion never occurred… After World War II, Albania was neither incorporated into Yugoslavia nor the Soviet Union. However, it doesn’t mean that it remained a democratic country. In 1946, the People’s Republic of Albania was established here. What’s more interesting, in 1961, Hoxha completely broke off contact with the USSR, and Albania left the Warsaw Pact. Over time, after Mao Zedong’s death, he also put an end to cooperation with the People’s Republic of China. After breaking off international contacts, Albania was actually isolated from the world. All this lasted until 1985 – the death of Enver Hoxha. During his dictatorship, virtually every aspect of Albanian life was under strict state control. All religious practices were forbidden, and it was impossible to travel abroad or own private cars. The extensive system of repression was responsible for the disappearance of over 100,000 people. The Sigurimi special services used methods of intimidation and repression that the NKVD or KGB would not be ashamed of. Concentration camps were also created to imprison people who committed such “crimes” as: comparing domestic products to foreign ones, practicing religion or ridiculing the state apparatus. The death penalty applied to people who tried to flee the country or agitated against the government. Hoxha, haunted by paranoid thoughts about the threat to Albania from the imperialist United States and the social-imperialist Soviet Union, aimed to militarize the civilian population. His crazy concept was based on the so-called Maoist strategy known as People’s War. Many state-owned enterprises participated in one way or another in the state defense system. Citizens were trained to serve in the army from the age of 12. The country’s defence was to be based mainly on the bunkers “assigned” to them. In fact, due to the lack of coordination, the defence system created by Hoxha was chaotic. Underfinancing was also a problem, which manifested itself in the lack of appropriate equipment, fuel or ammunition. It is hard to imagine that bunkers “leased” to the public will constitute an alternative to the regular, professional army. First of all, you need to take into account the possible time it will take to defend such a bunker by a person not fully trained for this purpose without weapons, external supplies, or communication with other bunkers. Moreover, the “bunkerisation program” completely plunged the Albanian economy. The money allocated for bunkers could have been spent more rationally. For the construction of infrastructure, residential buildings and, above all, to improve the living conditions of Albanians, most of whom lived in extreme poverty at that time. Bunkers were built both in strategic places, like coastal defense bunkers and to protect dignitaries as fallout shelters. However, many of them are located in the least expected places, in fields, vineyards or right next to residential buildings. The largest nuclear shelter is located on the outskirts of Tirana. It was built for Hoxha and high-ranking dignitaries. Its dimensions are truly impressive. On five floors and an area of over 3,000 m² there are over 100 rooms intended for offices and rooms. There is also an auditorium, a shop and a cinema hall. Apparently it was decided that it would be necessary to entertain the dignitaries. After all, how long can you sit idly in a shelter during a nuclear attack? 😉 After the dictator’s death, the bunker remained unused for many years. Only recently it was decided to create a museum combined with an art gallery here. It’s called Bunk’art 1. In the rooms you can learn about the history of Albania during World War II. Surprisingly, only a small part of the exhibition is devoted to the times of Hoxha’s post-war dictatorship. The information presented focuses on the positive aspects of his rule, like improving the health service, women’s emancipation, reform of the education system, and electrification of the country. Meanwhile, in the very center of Tirana, right next to Skandenberg Square, there’s another similar facility called Bunk’Art2. It has an area of 1,000 square meters with reinforced concrete walls up to 2.4 meters thick. It was built as part of the project code-named “Objekti Shtylla” in the years 1981 – 1986. It was also intended to serve as a shelter in the event of a nuclear attack mainly for employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Currently, there’s a Bunk’art museum here. 2, in which you can learn about the bloody history of the Hoxha regime. The exhibition mainly presents the history of the persecution of Albanians. Here you can see surveillance methods, an interrogation room and numerous prisoners’ memorabilia. In the period from 1944 to 1991, over 6,000 Albanians were killed. The main methods used were shooting or hanging, and their bodies were never returned to their families. The party did not want to allow the victims’ graves to become a symbol of opposition to the government. Many people died in prisons or labor camps as a result of tortures. The death penalty included 34 crimes: fleeing the country, sabotaging the state, fascist, religious and anti-socialist agitation and propaganda. About 34,000 people were held in prisons and labour camps. In the museum you can learn about 36 types of tortures that were used at that time. Another large nuclear bunker can be seen in the village of Gjirokastër. It’s 800 meters long and has approximately 60 rooms inside. Despite being located practically in the center of the city of Gjirokastër, Hoxha managed to keep it a secret. The bunker has been preserved in its original condition and currently the Cold War Museum I slocated there. This makes the experience of visiting this place more authentic. A walk through the corridors takes you back to the times of the totalitarian regime. You can see original furniture and equipment here. A characteristic type of bunkers found in Albania are coastal protection ones. Presented below, they’re located in the town of Tale, in northern Albania. Coastal defence bunkers can also be seen on the picturesque Cape Rodon, located about 60 km from Tirana. However, in the competition for the best location, the podium would certainly be taken by the bunkers located on a high cliff right next to the town of Zvërnec. Submarine bunkers were also built during the Hoxha dictatorship. This type of facilities can be seen in the seaside town of Shëngjin and in the northern part of the bay of Porto Palermo. The Porto Palermo bunker is basically a submarine tunnel. It’s 12 meters high and 650 meters long. Part of the bunker on the bay side of Porto Palermo still remains in the military area. The second part located on the sea side remains closed, but it is worth going there just for the amazing views of the coast. A completely different structure is the Great Bunker, located on the picturesque Llogara Pass. The bunker consists of a three-floor building, which is currently, to put it mildly, in a state of disrepair. Below the building you can see a concrete tunnel located on the mountainside. The facility was an excellent observation point over the Adriatic Sea. The location of the bunker in this place indicates that Hoxha must have feared an attack also from Italy, which is quite close. However, the biggest surprise were the bunkers located at the Apollonia archaeological site. I won’t hide the fact that I showed complete ignorance of ancient architecture and chose more modern structures. For the first time in my life, I bought tickets to a museum in order to see the bunkers. Instead of admiring the ancient city founded in the 6th century BC, I immediately headed towards the shelters. I guess you’ll agree that it was more interesting here? Like the post about Albania, check out more here.

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Albania – north direction

Gosia — Sun, 10 Dec 2023 07:00:14 +0000

Albania has recently become a popular destination. There’re many reasons: beautiful beaches, interesting monuments, good food and even better prices. During my 10-day stay, I managed to visit a large part of this country. I must admit that Albania has enormous potential, which the country seems to have not fully exploited. There is no investment in tourist infrastructure and no waste management. Rubbish seems to be an inherent element of the Albanian landscape. However, the main problem for me was the dramatic condition of the roads, which significantly limited the number of places I could see in such a short time. Despite everything, I believe that Albania is a country worth visiting. First of all, because of its diversity, which is especially visible in the northern part of the country. I started my tour of northern Albania from the castle in Kruja, also known as Skanderbeg’s Citadel. It is a medieval fortress located on a high hill. Kruja is a historical place on the map of Albania and a symbol of the heroic fight against the Ottomans. The city is known mainly because of the figure of Skandenberg – the national hero of Albania. Under his leadership, the fortress withstood the siege of Ottoman troops three times in the 15th century. Ultimately, the Ottomans managed to capture it after his death. The massive structure with a round tower is impressive, but the fortress in its present shape is arises a lot of controversy among Albanians. It was reconstructed according to the design of the daughter of the dictator Enver Hoxha, and apparently its current appearance differs significantly from the original. Inside the fortress there’s a museum dedicated to Skandenberg. Sari Salltik’s Shrine Near the castle in Kruje there’s an interesting religious building dedicated to the Turkish dervish -Sari Salltik, who is said to have brought Islam to the Balkans. This place is located only 7 km from Kruje. A picturesque mountain road unexpectedly ends at the top of the mountain. Right next to the parking lot there’s the entrance to the temple. The small temple is actually located inside a cave. Ther’re quite steep stairs leading to it. The temple consists of a small chapel carved in the rock and a vestibule where you can see the tombs. I didn’t see any tourists there. This place seems to be well – hidden from the mass tourism. This is surprising because the nearby Kruja Castle was literally besieged by tours during my visit. Rozafa Castle Near the town of Shkodër there is another castle known from a rather dramatic legend. Its name – Rozafa comes from the name of a woman who was bricked up alive within its walls. Apparently this was to prevent them from collapsing. The fortress is located on the top of a mountain, where you can see an amazing view of Shkodër. Lake Shkodër Lake Shkodër is the largest inland reservoir in the Balkans. It’s the border area of Montenegro and Albania, while the most part of it is located on the territory of Montenegro. The lake is very popular among tourists due to its picturesque mountain location and the habitat of many bird species. A popular destination for a one-day trip from Shkodër is Lake Koman. Lake Koman is a “side effect” of the construction of three hydroelectric plants on the Drin River. The hydroelectric plants in Koman, Fierza and Vau i Dejës are the largest in Albania and cover most of the electricity demand of the entire country. Even though Lake Koman was artificially created, it delights with its wild character. What’s more interesting, there are practically no tourists here. This is probably related to the lack of tourist facilities, not to mention the poor quality of roads. The asphalt on the route from Shkodra seems to be a distant memory. What is also disappointing is the large amount of garbage floating on the lake, which definitely spoils the overall impression of this place. I cannot understand the Albanians’ approach to these issues, especially in a place with such great tourist potential. Albania – paths One of the most picturesque places in northern Albania is the town of Teth and the Thethit National Park. Even though Teth is only 75 km from Shkodër, it takes 2 hours to get there. However, the long journey is compensated by the beautiful mountain landscapes. The town of Teth seems to be almost at the edge of the world, and it actually looks that way. This is an excellent starting point for hiking in the area. One of the most interesting routes is the trail leading to the Blue Eye – a crystal clear mountain lake. This place is especially visited by crowds in the summer, both by locals and tourists. In addition to bathing in cold water, an additional attraction is watching jumpers jumping into the water from a wooden footbridge. The path to the lake is moderately demanding and it’s itself an attraction of this trip. Another argument that it’s not the destination, but the journey that matters, is the trail to the Grunas waterfall. The 30-meter-high waterfall looks amazing, especially in the afternoon when the sun rays create a beautiful rainbow on it. However, in my opinion, the Grunasit Canyon is much more impressive. The canyon is 2 km long and 60 meters deep. There’s a small bridge suspended between the rocks, where you can cross the canyon. Apparently this is the narrowest part of the canyon, because its walls are almost at your fingertips. On the way back to Teth, in addition to the amazing views, you can also see the isolation tower – Kulla e Negujimit. Such towers were once a kind of refuge for people seeking shelter from bloody ancestral revenge. It’s just a small part of the amazing places I visited in Albania. Find out more here!

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