volcano -

Auckland – a metropolis on a volcanic minefield

Gosia — Sun, 19 Apr 2026 16:49:40 +0000

Auckland isn’t actually the capital of New Zealand, though it tries very hard to look like it is. Historically, it did hold that title between 1841 and 1865. Today, its modern business district, with towering skyscrapers and cosmopolitan cafés, still feels like the country’s command centre. The city regularly ranks high in quality-of-life surveys, because life here is simply good. Sure, it’s more expensive than other parts of New Zealand, but that clearly doesn’t put anyone off, least of all tourists. Auckland can boast a pretty unique setting. It sits on the Auckland Volcanic Field, a volcanic area made up of roughly 50–53 volcanoes. They’re all dormant now, but the field as a whole is still considered active. What could have been a drawback, the city has turned into a feature. Many of these volcanoes have been converted into parks and viewpoints. The locals have a wonderfully pragmatic approach, if you’re going to live on a volcanic minefield, at least make sure it comes with a nice view. I started my day at Mt Eden, or Maungawhau – the highest point in the city and one of the most photogenic spots in Auckland. It’s a dormant volcano, 196 metres tall, whose last eruption was around 28,000 years ago. At the top sits a massive bowl-shaped crater, about 50 metres deep. A short walk up is rewarded with panoramic views of the entire city, its ports, bays, and other volcanoes. It’s worth remembering that the crater is a sacred site for Māori, so you shouldn’t stray from the marked paths. Mt Eden’s history has another, rather unexpected twist. The stone viewing platform at the summit was built in the 19th century with the help of… an elephant. At the time, the volcano’s slopes were heavily quarried, and the basalt extracted was used to build houses, Mt Eden Prison, and the platform itself. Māori workers and prisoners laboured here but one of the workers was also an elephant called Tom. Tom came to New Zealand as a gift for Prince Alfred, Queen Victoria’s son because, back in the 19th century, if you couldn’t think of a present for an aristocrat, you just gave them an elephant (and this one wasn’t a white elephant). During the sea voyage, he carried tonnes of coal, and upon arriving in Auckland, his strength was put to work hauling heavy blocks of stone up the slopes of Mt Eden. For his efforts, he was paid in sweets and beer, because health and safety, animal welfare, and common sense were treated rather loosely back then. Tom didn’t stay in New Zealand permanently; he ended up in Europe, and his remains can now be seen at Trinity College Museum in Dublin. The platform, meanwhile, still stands and continues to offer one of the best views in the city. From Mt Eden, I headed towards Karangahape Road, known to everyone as K’ Road. It’s one of those streets that doesn’t pretend to be all metropolitan chic. It’s packed with cafés that definitely don’t shut when the bedtime story ends. K’ Road is famous for simply being alive loud, diverse, and without pretence. It’s a bit arty, a bit rebellious, but never boring. Next up was Albert Park, one of the oldest parks in Auckland, established in the 19th century. It sits on a volcanic hill right in the heart of the city, and you can still see the massive trees that remember the park’s early days. The grounds include gardens and the Auckland Art Gallery, but what you can’t see at first glance lies underground. Beneath the park is a network of World War II-era tunnels, built as air-raid shelters. They’re closed today, but knowing they exist gives a whole new perspective on the place. From there, I walked to High Street. It’s the sort of place where you can shop, grab a good coffee, have dinner, or just sit with a glass of wine. Vulcan Lane, a narrow alley between the main streets lined with cafés, is particularly charming. While in the area, it’s worth popping into Giapo – the cult ice cream shop. They serve a Kiwi classic: Hokey Pokey, vanilla ice cream studded with chunks of toffee. Just nearby is Viaduct Harbour, a waterfront district full of restaurants, bars, and cafés overlooking the marina. Auckland is often called the “City of Sails”, with over 135,000 registered yachts and boats, and the Waitematā Harbour and Hauraki Gulf sometimes look like a giant parking lot for people who don’t entirely trust life on land. From almost anywhere in the city, you can spot Auckland’s icon – the Sky Tower. At 328 metres, it dominates the skyline and is the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere. If you prefer something a bit quieter, head to Parnell, Auckland’s oldest and one of its most stylish suburbs. Charming architecture and plenty of restaurants and cafés make it a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. Auckland was the last place I visited in New Zealand. And I’m glad I saved it for last — it perfectly summed up the country’s diversity. Ending a trip in a place like this is a bit like closing an adventure book, knowing full well you’ll want to open it again sometime.

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Mt Taranaki in New Zealand: an intelligence test and practical info

Gosia — Sun, 22 Feb 2026 16:15:10 +0000

I arrived at Egmont National Park in the afternoon. The main star of the show, Mount Taranaki, was of course hidden in the clouds so it did exactly what I’d expected. There was no point in attempting a longer hiking, so I opted for the light version: Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools. As soon as I crossed the park boundary, it felt like I had stepped into an entirely different reality. A narrow, winding road led through a dense green tunnel, creating an almost fairytale-like landscape. To save time, I decided not to drive all the way to Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and stopped earlier, right at the trailhead. A short walk through the moss-covered forest felt like travelling through another dimension, as if designed by someone on a heavy psychedelic trip. Soon after, an 18-metre waterfall appeared. It looked incredible, without even a drop of exaggeration 😉 The trail to Wilkies Pools was a pleasant change. It led through a more “civilised” forest and across a suspension bridge. Wilkies Pools are tiny waterfalls with overflow pools, perfect for a natural spa. On the way back, the clouds finally parted, and I caught sight of Taranaki in the distance. It was late, so trekking was off the table, but I headed to the viewpoint at North Egmont Visitor Centre. And that’s when it hit me how utterly surreal this place is. The road was as flat as an IKEA table, and then, suddenly, a perfect volcanic cone rose right in front of my car. Absurdly close, far too close for something that should ideally be admired from a safe distance—or at least in the photo. I had never seen anything so unreal. The closer I got, the more it dominated the landscape. Clouds hung over it as if it was about to erupt. There was something beautiful and slightly terrifying about it. Enchanted, I drove back to my accommodation, watching Taranaki in the rear-view mirror. I left the rest of the points for the next day, unaware that fate had a little intelligence test in store for me… one that I spectacularly failed. The next morning, I rose at dawn. I planned a trek to Pouakai Reflective Tarn, followed by a drive to the coast near New Plymouth. However, while eating breakfast, I decided to complicate the day for myself. How else can one describe the attempt to remove an avocado stone with a knife? Result? I stabbed my hand with full determination. I’ll spare you the gruesome details, but watching the scene made me feel faint… really faint. The cut was narrow but deep, opening with every finger movement and hinting at an “exciting” day ahead. Giving up on the planned route was out of the question—I had bandages and zero common sense. Thanks to having an automatic car, I could even reach the trail start. Driving with one hand wasn’t too tricky, but tying my hiking boots felt like relearning shoelaces after years of Velcro. The frustration was total and absolute. The trail was single-themed: wooden boardwalk, steps, more steps, even more steps. The weather was cloudy, hope for Taranaki’s reflection in the water – minimal. Blood pumped, bandages disappeared quickly. Still, I pressed on with the hope of seeing one of New Zealand’s most photogenic spots. In perfect conditions, Mount Taranaki reflects in the water of Pouakai Reflective Tarn like a mirror. In my case, perfect conditions exist only in theory. Dense clouds made it almost impossible to see anything, and the “large” tarn turned out to be a small pond. The descent was even worse. Bandages ran out, blood dripped, and I started attracting more and more curious hikers. The steps felt endless; my only focus was to get back to the car and head to a pharmacy. The pharmacy solved the problem with special plasters that sealed the wound enough to avert further crisis. Was it worth it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Of course. Will I use a spoon next time? Definitely 😀 Trail Info Wilkies Pools & Dawson FallsThe trailheads are marked on the map below. Both can be done as a longer loop. The Wilkies Pools & Dawson Falls Loop is just under 4 km, with a 225 m elevation gain, taking 1.5–2 hours. Pouakai Reflective TarnSeveral trails lead to Pouakai Reflective Tarn. A popular option is the Mangorei Track Trailhead. I initially planned the Pouakai Circuit starting at Kaiauai Car Park, but reviews suggested it was more challenging. Given my earlier misadventures and general survival instinct, I chose the easier route from Mangorei Road Car Park.One-way is 6 km; standard return time is 5–6 hours. I did it in 3 hours plus 30 minutes of bandage changes, which effectively threw off my rhythm. Most of the trail is wooden planks, which get slippery when wet. Monotonous and tedious, but without them, it would be a mud bath.The first stop is Pouakai Hut (about 5 km in), with free toilets. From there, just 1 km to Pouakai Reflective Tarns along a relatively flat path.

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