Mt Taranaki in New Zealand: an intelligence test and practical info

I arrived at Egmont National Park in the afternoon. The main star of the show, Mount Taranaki, was of course hidden in the clouds so it did exactly what I’d expected. There was no point in attempting a longer hiking, so I opted for the light version: Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools. As soon as I crossed the park boundary, it felt like I had stepped into an entirely different reality. A narrow, winding road led through a dense green tunnel, creating an almost fairytale-like landscape.

To save time, I decided not to drive all the way to Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and stopped earlier, right at the trailhead. A short walk through the moss-covered forest felt like travelling through another dimension, as if designed by someone on a heavy psychedelic trip. Soon after, an 18-metre waterfall appeared. It looked incredible, without even a drop of exaggeration 😉

The trail to Wilkies Pools was a pleasant change. It led through a more “civilised” forest and across a suspension bridge. Wilkies Pools are tiny waterfalls with overflow pools, perfect for a natural spa.

On the way back, the clouds finally parted, and I caught sight of Taranaki in the distance. It was late, so trekking was off the table, but I headed to the viewpoint at North Egmont Visitor Centre. And that’s when it hit me how utterly surreal this place is. The road was as flat as an IKEA table, and then, suddenly, a perfect volcanic cone rose right in front of my car. Absurdly close, far too close for something that should ideally be admired from a safe distance—or at least in the photo.

I had never seen anything so unreal. The closer I got, the more it dominated the landscape. Clouds hung over it as if it was about to erupt. There was something beautiful and slightly terrifying about it.

Enchanted, I drove back to my accommodation, watching Taranaki in the rear-view mirror. I left the rest of the points for the next day, unaware that fate had a little intelligence test in store for me… one that I spectacularly failed. The next morning, I rose at dawn. I planned a trek to Pouakai Reflective Tarn, followed by a drive to the coast near New Plymouth. However, while eating breakfast, I decided to complicate the day for myself. How else can one describe the attempt to remove an avocado stone with a knife? Result? I stabbed my hand with full determination. I’ll spare you the gruesome details, but watching the scene made me feel faint… really faint. The cut was narrow but deep, opening with every finger movement and hinting at an “exciting” day ahead. Giving up on the planned route was out of the question—I had bandages and zero common sense. Thanks to having an automatic car, I could even reach the trail start. Driving with one hand wasn’t too tricky, but tying my hiking boots felt like relearning shoelaces after years of Velcro. The frustration was total and absolute. The trail was single-themed: wooden boardwalk, steps, more steps, even more steps. The weather was cloudy, hope for Taranaki’s reflection in the water – minimal. Blood pumped, bandages disappeared quickly. Still, I pressed on with the hope of seeing one of New Zealand’s most photogenic spots.

In perfect conditions, Mount Taranaki reflects in the water of Pouakai Reflective Tarn like a mirror. In my case, perfect conditions exist only in theory. Dense clouds made it almost impossible to see anything, and the “large” tarn turned out to be a small pond.

The descent was even worse. Bandages ran out, blood dripped, and I started attracting more and more curious hikers. The steps felt endless; my only focus was to get back to the car and head to a pharmacy. The pharmacy solved the problem with special plasters that sealed the wound enough to avert further crisis.

Was it worth it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Of course. Will I use a spoon next time? Definitely 😀

Trail Info

 

Wilkies Pools & Dawson Falls
The trailheads are marked on the map below. Both can be done as a longer loop. The Wilkies Pools & Dawson Falls Loop is just under 4 km, with a 225 m elevation gain, taking 1.5–2 hours.

Pouakai Reflective Tarn
Several trails lead to Pouakai Reflective Tarn. A popular option is the Mangorei Track Trailhead. I initially planned the Pouakai Circuit starting at Kaiauai Car Park, but reviews suggested it was more challenging. Given my earlier misadventures and general survival instinct, I chose the easier route from Mangorei Road Car Park.
One-way is 6 km; standard return time is 5–6 hours. I did it in 3 hours plus 30 minutes of bandage changes, which effectively threw off my rhythm. Most of the trail is wooden planks, which get slippery when wet. Monotonous and tedious, but without them, it would be a mud bath.
The first stop is Pouakai Hut (about 5 km in), with free toilets. From there, just 1 km to Pouakai Reflective Tarns along a relatively flat path.