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Auckland – a metropolis on a volcanic minefield
Auckland isn’t actually the capital of New Zealand, though it tries very hard to look like it is. Historically, it did hold that title between 1841 and 1865. Today, its modern business district, with towering skyscrapers and cosmopolitan cafés, still feels like the country’s command centre. The city regularly ranks high in quality-of-life surveys, because life here is simply good. Sure, it’s more expensive than other parts of New Zealand, but that clearly doesn’t put anyone off, least of all tourists. Auckland can boast a pretty unique setting. It sits on the Auckland Volcanic Field, a volcanic area made up of roughly 50–53 volcanoes. They’re all dormant now, but the…
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Auckland, Devonport – the fort that never fired… and the fake news that built it
It takes barely a few minutes to ride a ferry from central Auckland to Devonport – a place that seems to exist in a completely different reality. Devonport lies between two extinct volcanoes that not only shaped its history but also perfectly symbolise it. At first glance, it looks like a calm, almost sleepy Auckland suburb: wooden houses, cafés, restaurants, kids fishing in the bay with Auckland’s skyscrapers in the background… but that’s just the surface. Beneath it lies a turbulent past that once made Devonport one of the most strategic locations in the region. Right next to the ferry terminal rises Mount Victoria, an 87-metre volcanic cone. It may…
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New Zealand, day one: a birthday at the end of the world
I will never forget my first day in New Zealand. It was my birthday, and it was exactly how I’d imagined it – far from home, at the end of the world. Those first days are always stuck in the memory best – they set the tone for the whole trip. And knowing I had 18 days of adventure ahead only cranked up the excitement. Karekare Falls – 30 metres of watery adrenaline The first stop was Karekare Falls in the Waitākere Ranges Regional Park. A short, half-kilometre walk leads to a 30-metre waterfall surrounded by palms and lush, exotic vegetation. Mercer Bay Loop – a walk with views and…
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Mt Taranaki in New Zealand: an intelligence test and practical info
I arrived at Egmont National Park in the afternoon. The main star of the show, Mount Taranaki, was of course hidden in the clouds so it did exactly what I’d expected. There was no point in attempting a longer hiking, so I opted for the light version: Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools. As soon as I crossed the park boundary, it felt like I had stepped into an entirely different reality. A narrow, winding road led through a dense green tunnel, creating an almost fairytale-like landscape. To save time, I decided not to drive all the way to Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and stopped earlier, right at the trailhead. A…
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Road trip in New Zealand
A road trip in New Zealand is not a way of getting from one attraction to another, it is the attraction itself. That said, I have to say this straight up: New Zealand does not have amazing road infrastructure. And that genuinely surprised me, especially given how popular the country is with tourists. Because of the terrain, most roads are mountainous, narrow, single-lane serpentines. And paradoxically, that’s brilliant. Every route is an experience, and a road trip around New Zealand could easily be the main point of the journey rather than just a means of getting somewhere. Driving technically demanding roads surrounded by mountains, lakes and vast empty spaces delivers…
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Rotorua – an unpredictable city
You can smell Rotorua from a distance. Long before you see the city sign, the air is already thick with the distinctive scent of hydrogen sulphide – best compared to rotten eggs. This is the perfectly natural side effect of intense geothermal activity in the area. And yet, the stench doesn’t scare tourists away. Rotorua is one of the main tourist hubs on New Zealand’s North Island. It’s also jokingly called Roto-Vegas, thanks to its abundance of neon lights and bars. Other nicknames include Sulphur City and Rotten-rua and each of them reflects the specific atmosphere of this city. Geothermal features are everywhere. Rotorua sits right in the heart of…
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New Zealand, the road to Milford Sound
The road to Milford Sound is not some boring “getting-there” exercise – it is the attraction. I’ll admit it was the only place I decided to visit in full lazy mode, on an organised tour. At first, I toyed with the idea of driving myself – after all, I had a rental car. In the end, common sense won. I knew it was one of the last days of my fairly intensive trip, and the route from Queenstown to Milford Sound and back is nearly 300 kilometres each way, which in New Zealand terms means roughly eight hours behind the wheel. And honestly? Best decision ever. I love driving, but…
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Milford Sound, New Zealand – the sound that turned out to be a fjord
Milford Sound is a pretty peculiar place. It can get so wet here that the direction of the rain seems to defy the laws of gravity – the water quite literally flies upwards. And as if that wasn’t enough, the area is patrolled by a gang of parrots specialising in… breaking into cars. It sounds like a disaster zone, yet it’s the most popular attraction in New Zealand. The name, however, does its best to mislead visitors. Milford Sound isn’t really a “sound” at all, but a fjord – and one of the most spectacular in the world. How is that possible? Let’s go back to geography class for a…
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New Zealand, Kaikoura – a post about dreams coming true
Time for a post about dreams coming true. Hard to believe, but New Zealand for me was never the goal itself. In fact, this dream was born eight years earlier, in Hawaii. Quite by accident, during one of the boat trips, I found out that I had been this close to seeing whales.Well, not exactly close — more like a seven-mile step away, because I should have planned my trip six months later. That dream was promptly added to my bucket list and filed away in a drawer labelled “long-term”. Until the day tickets to New Zealand landed in my inbox. And then it was clear: now or never. I started…
