Central Albania – Cape Rodon, Durrës and Tirana

I started the route towards central Albania in the town of Teth. The first point of my trip was Cape Rodon, also known as the Cape of Skanderbeg. This is definitely a place you must visit while being in Albania. Actually, I could point out three reasons why it’s worth coming here. The first are bunkers, which I wrote about here. The second one is the castle built by Skandenberg in 1452, to defend against the Ottoman Empire. Although it was a hiding place for Skandeberg for a while during the siege of Kruja in 1466, it was destroyed by the Turks only a year later. Currently, only the remains of the former fortress can be seen here. Unfortunately part of it was swallowed by the sea.

However, the last and probably the most important reason why this place is at the top of the attractions list are the amazing views.

An amazing panorama of Tirana and the surrounding area can be admired from Mount Dajti, located to the east of the capital of Albania. You can reach the peak by car, on foot or by the Dajti Express gondola lift.

Following the coast southwards, I reached Durrës – one of the oldest cities in Albania. Durrës is currently the second largest city in Albania, after Tirana. Currently, it’s mainly a tourist resort with all the advantages and disadvantages of this type of place. Durrës was founded by the Greeks in 625 BC, and then during the times of the Roman Empire it was an important trading center. Moreover, in the years 1913-1920 it was the capital of Albania. In the city center there’s a Roman Amphitheater, which is one of the largest facilities of this type in Western Balkans. Apparently, in its heyday, when gladiator fights took place here, it could accommodate up to 20,000 viewers. In the mid-4th century, it was partially destroyed by an earthquake. From Ottoman times it remained buried and forgotten for many years. Only in 1996 was it accidentally discovered during earthworks. Currently, the amphitheater, surrounded by urban buildings, looks quite strange. It would seem that nothing has changed here since the archaeological works. It is completely neglected and littered. Unfortunately, this perfectly illustrates the basic problem of Albania, the lack of use of its tourist potential.

Near the amphitheater there are the ruins of the Byzantine Forum and the rotunda. They were built around the 5th century and were an important trading and decision-making centre of the city. Unfortunately, as you can see in the attached picture, they suffer the same fate as the amphitheater.

The most surprising thing is that both archaeological sites are located right next to the main square of Durres – Sheshi Liria. The Grand Mosque is also located next to the square. It was built in 1931 and was the largest mosque in Albania at that time. During Hoxha’s dictatorship, the minaret was demolished and the mosque itself remained closed. Both the square and the mosque look modern and seem to have been recently renovated. Meanwhile, nearby monuments of great historical value remain neglected.

Actually, while walking around Durrës, I had the impression that this city had a problem with its own identity. Modern buildings mix here with typical socialist housing estates and abandoned places. Apparently that’s its charm 😉

The rest of Durres is typical tourist folklore, with all the kitsch of seaside towns. A sandy beach, a large selection of accommodation, restaurants and other attractions attract many tourists here. Personally, I’m not a fan of this type of places, but I still think it’s worth coming here, even for the amazing view of the sunset from the promenade.

From Durres, I decided to go to the capital of Albania – Tirana. Tirana is quite a compact city and I think that one day is certainly enough to visit it. The central point of Tirana is Skandenberg Square with the monument to Skandenberg – the national hero who repelled the attacks of the Turks.

Near the square is the Ethema Bey Mosque. The mosque is said to be the oldest structure in Tirana. However, I wonder how it fit into the landscape of Skandeberg Square at a time when statues of Stalin, Lenin and Enver Hoxha stood nearby. It is worth adding that during Hoxha’s dictatorship, Albania was a secular state where any religious practices could result in imprisonment or deportation to a labour camp. What’s more interesting, the Stalin statue was only removed in 1991 during a student demonstration against the socialist regime.

Right next to the mosque there’s a huge Bunk’Art 2 nuclear shelter. Inside there’s a museum dedicated to the times of the most radical communist system in Europe, which existed during the rule of Enver Hoxha.

The victims of Hoxha’s regime are also commemorated by Post Bllok – a monument located in a representative part of the city on Dëshmorët e Kombit boulevard. Obviously it’s a bunker, which is the most tangible symbol of dictatorship.

Another interesting structure that can be seen in the centre of Tirana is the Pyramid. Even though it looks quite modern, appearances can be deceiving. It was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter, in honour of her daddy. It was intended to serve as the dictator’s mausoleum. It survived in this form until the fall of the regime. Currently, it has been renovated and serves as a modern art centre.

This spot seems to be a favorite place for tourists as well as residents of Tirana. There is nothing surprising, especially when visiting it at sunset.

Tirana also aspires to be a modern European capital. The urban space is diversified with artistic installations, such as “Cloud” made of steel rods.

At the end of the visit to Tirana and central Albania, to feel the local atmosphere of the city, it’s worth visiting the New Bazaar (Pazari and Ri). You can buy there local products, antiques and souvenirs, or simply observe the life of the locals.