Al Ain, United Arab Emirates – Green City in the middle of the desert

My journey to Al Ain seemed endless. From Abu Dhabi Airport, I had just 155 kilometers to cover, but the route led through desert landscapes. It was practically deserted, with no cars in sight, and the monotony made me feel like I was almost falling asleep at the wheel. It was my first day in the Emirates. I had my entire trip planned out in my mind, along with the distance I needed to drive. Sure, the desert might be exciting at first, but over time, it didn’t seem all that thrilling. However, hope arose as I approached my destination. Suddenly, on the horizon, I spotted green Al Ain. It looked quite abstract. Al Ain is aptly called the “Green City.” It’s particularly fascinating because, besides dense development, it features numerous oases. One of the oldest is the Al Ain Oasis, which history stretches back to 4,000 years. It covers an area of 130 hectares, and it’s home to 147,000 date palms and 100 other types of plants. Mangoes, oranges, bananas, figs, and jujubes (known locally as sidr) are also cultivated here.

You can also see an ancient irrigation system here called falaj (plural: aflaj). It consists of underground water channels that bring water from the mountains to villages in the valleys. This system has been used in the present-day Emirates and Oman for over 3,000 years. Due to the constant scarcity of water, it ensured survival for the local population and is still in use today despite technological advancements.

Al Ain Oasis isn’t the only one in this city. There are a total of six oases, all of which are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. During my brief one-day stay in Al Ain, I also managed to visit another oasis called Hili. Although it is half the size of Al Ain Oasis, it is equally charming. Additionally, it can be explored by car, which is an advantage on hot days.

The oases aren’t the only attraction in Al Ain. The city boasts intriguing architecture. It’s worth visiting Al Jahili Fort, which was built in the 19th century to control the local population and served as a summer residence for Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa the First. In the early 1950s, it was taken over by the British, who used it until 1970. Today, both the fort and the museum within it are open to visitors free of charge. Right next to it is another interesting building — the Palace Museum, which, unfortunately, was closed during my visit.

A tour of Al Ain is best to finish at the summit of Jebel Hafeet. On the way up, it’s worth stopping by the unique camel market, which I’ll soon write about. Jebel Hafeet rises to almost 1,250 meters and dominates the surroundings, offering unforgettable views. It’s a striking feature of the landscape, as the area around Al Ain is generally flat. The mountain seems to rise out of nowhere.

A scenic 11-kilometer road leads to the summit. It’s full of curves, occasionally steep, and the absence of speed cameras makes it even more enticing. Numerous viewpoints along the way offer different perspectives of Al Ain. From the viewpoint at the top, there’s an incredible view of the characteristic red dunes. This unique sand colour is due to the presence of iron.

But that’s not all. At the bottom of the mountain, more than 500 tombs have been discovered, dating back to 3200–2700 BCE. The tombs contained well-preserved skeletons and jewelry made of pearls and bronze. The presence of Mesopotamian pottery indicates intense trade relations that connected this region with other civilizations.

Located on the border of the United Arab Emirates and Oman, Al Ain is a place full of attarctions. Compared to the modernity of Dubai or Abu Dhabi, Al Ain feels more homely and local. The city’s unique atmosphere is created by its distinctive architecture, lush oases, and the picturesque road leading to the summit of Jebel Hafeet.