Essaouira, Morocco

Essaouira is one of those Moroccan cities that’s well worth a visit. Instead of the usual maze of narrow alleyways and a chaotic medina, here you’ll find a neat grid of streets, whitewashed houses with blue shutters, and a fresh breeze straight off the Atlantic. While it may not be as famous as Marrakesh or Fez, Essaouira has its own story, its own vibe, and more than a few solid reasons to swing by.

The city’s history goes all the way back to Roman times, when traders dealt in a precious dye known as Tyrian purple (which I wrote about here). It was extracted from a particular species of sea snail found along the coast. The dye was used to colour garments across the Roman Empire. Later came the Portuguese – who, as they tended to do, got busy building fortresses in far-flung exotic spots. In 1506, they built one here and called it Mogador.

Then in the 18th century, the area came under the control of the Sultan of Morocco, a man who appreciated both order and the finer points of French urban planning. Thus was born the city of As-Suwaira – meaning “beautifully designed” in Arabic. The French, gave it the more melodic name Essaouira.

Essaouira is a whole different city compared to Fez or Marrakesh. It feels more orderly and a bit more European. The city is a blend of Arabic and European architecture, with white houses and blue shutters giving off Greek island vibes. Throw in the Arabic atmosphere and you’ve got yourself a rather intriguing mix.

However, the best city’s attraction are the defensive walls. On the ocean side, two bastions – known as skala – guard the city. One of them, Skala de la Ville, sits right next to the old town. Back in the day it protected the city from pirates; nowadays, it offers great views over the medina and the sea. The second bastion, Skala du Port, as you can suppose is located right by the port, where you’ll find a fleet of iconic blue fishing boats.

There’s a unique local energy here. At the fish market, you can watch hardened Essaouira locals haggling. From the port, you get a great view of the medina. The place also pulls in tourists – thanks largely to Game of Thrones. This places is Astapor in the series.

Essaouira is also known as the “Wind City” – which sounds quite poetic until you’re chewing sand halfway through your beachside lunch. Still, it’s exactly that wind that brings windsurfers and kitesurfers here from all over the globe.