Fez – the city of a million mosques, donkeys and pigeon poo

Fez isn’t a city — it’s a medieval time machine with a full-immersion option in Arab culture. Founded in the late 8th century, it’s considered the oldest and best-preserved Islamic city in the world. But don’t expect some boring open-air museum — this is 100% Arab city life, complete with chaos, colour and noise in generous supply. For centuries, Fez was Morocco’s capital and the beating heart of religion, learning and culture. It’s also where the world’s oldest still-operating university — Al-Karawiyyin — has been running uninterrupted since the 9th century. Though today it’s Morocco’s fourth-largest city, Fez has stubbornly held onto its medieval soul.

The adventure begins at Bab Bou Jeloud, one of fifteen gates leading into the old city — the medina. I show up at the crack of dawn, naively hoping to see it in peace and quiet. The gate, covered in intricate blue mosaic, looks straight out of a fairytale.

But as soon as I step through, the fairytale ends and reality slaps me in the face — welcome to the Arab souk. The stalls are crammed with goods, the workshops buzz with local craftsmen — potters, weavers, jewellers — it’s crowded and the air is thick with passionate haggling. It’s pure Arabia. At first glance it seems like utter chaos, but there’s method to the madness. The souk is divided by trade — metal goods, food, spices, clothes, cosmetics — all neatly sectioned off, assuming you can navigate the nearly thousand alleyways that make up this labyrinth.

The medina is so huge it even has dedicated tourist trails to stop visitors getting completely lost. It’s also the world’s largest car-free urban area — goods here still travel the old-school way: on the backs of donkeys. Apparently, the idea of a sustainable city was alive and kicking here long before the EU wrote its first directive.

Fez is also known as the City of a Million Mosques. For centuries, Islamic scholars have trained in its many madrasas. One such gem is the richly decorated Al-Attarine Madrasa — a place that oozes the spirit of the past.

But the true calling card of Fez? The tanneries — and the biggest and smelliest of them all is Chouara. Operating non-stop since the 11th century, it hasn’t changed much since medieval times. From above, it looks almost picturesque: dozens of stone vats filled with natural dyes in every shade from saffron yellow and poppy red to deep indigo blue.

But before the leather gets its fancy colour, it goes through a process that’s… well, let’s call it character-building. Chouara is the oldest functioning tannery in the world — and the process is still delightfully medieval. First, the hides are soaked in a white soup made of water, lime, salt… and pigeon droppings. Nope, not a joke. The mixture softens the leather, making it more absorbent.

Then comes the dye bath, followed by open-air drying. Most of the workers are men, wading waist-deep in this medieval brew, doing it all under the scorching sun.

The best way to see the tannery in full glory is from one of the surrounding rooftop terraces. For the top view, head to the terrace at shop no. 10 — a small tip to the shopkeeper gets you access to the show. And yes, every visitor gets a sprig of mint, because the smell up there is… let’s say “aromatically unforgettable”.

It’s also worth dropping by the nearby Sidi Moussa tannery — smaller but less crowded.

End your visit with a bite at Café Clock, where for 110 dirhams you can try a camel burger. It tastes like beef, only leaner and a bit more aromatic.

Fez isn’t just a city — it’s a living medieval relic, where tradition tangles with the noise and energy of everyday Arab life. Here, history smells like tanned leather, and every turn of the medina reveals a new story.