Khiva – Uzbekistan, a city out of One Thousand and One Nights

Gosia — Sun, 19 Jul 2026 16:10:35 +0000

To be honest, Khiva almost fell off my itinerary for Uzbekistan. Not because it didn’t seem interesting. Quite the opposite – when I was planning my trip to Uzbekistan, I knew it was one of those places I simply had to see. The problem was something completely different… logistics. Or, to be more precise: my first day in Uzbekistan was, to put it mildly, rather ambitious. 😉 After a night flight to Tashkent, by which point I felt that coffee was the only thing keeping my vital functions going, I still had a domestic flight to Urgench ahead of me. That was where I was picking up my hire car. Common sense was telling me to give Khiva a miss. A sleepless night, two flights, temperatures approaching 40°C and the prospect of another six hours behind the wheel (my ultimate destination was Kungrad) were all fairly convincing arguments. The problem is that I have one rather annoying trait: once I decide to do something, I have to see it through. Khiva wasn’t on my route, but it was too close, too unique and had been on my bucket list for far too long. Khiva – a city carved out of desert sand According to legend, the origins of Khiva date back to biblical times. The city was supposedly founded by Shem, Noah’s son, who, according to the story, wandered through the desert until one night he saw torches in a dream, pointing towards the site of a future settlement. While building the settlement, he supposedly discovered a source of water and dug a well called Kheyvak. The city’s name – Khiva is said to have originated from it. Legend is one thing, but one thing is certain: in the place where Khiva stands today, water has been the greatest treasure for thousands of years. Situated between the Karakum and Kyzylkum deserts, the settlement could exist thanks to access to water sources and its strategic location. For centuries, Khiva was one of the important stops along the Silk Road. Caravans crossing the vast expanses of Central Asia would stop here to rest, replenish their supplies and trade goods. The city was particularly famous for its silk and cotton textiles, hand-made carpets and craftsmanship – all of which remain an important part of local culture to this day. Khiva’s history, however, was just as fascinating as it was turbulent. Over the centuries, the city changed hands many times. It came under the influence of the Arabs, Seljuks, Mongols, Timurids, Persian rulers and, eventually, the Russians. Ichan Kala – a city behind the walls Without a doubt, Khiva’s greatest treasure is Ichan Kala, the old inner city hidden behind massive defensive walls. This is where, after entering through one of the four gates, you can feel as if time has stopped several centuries ago. It’s no coincidence that Khiva is often referred to as a museum city. Within a relatively small area, there is an incredible concentration of historic monuments: madrasahs, mosques, mausoleums, palaces and minarets. One of Khiva’s biggest advantages is that most of the sights are located very close to one another, and the Old Town is best explored without too much of a plan. All you have to do is turn into a side street, walk through an unassuming gateway and suddenly find yourself in the courtyard of an old madrasah or standing in front of intricately decorated doors that have witnessed the times of the old khans. The massive walls of Ichan Kala are one of the most distinctive sights in Uzbekistan. Their undulating shapes, made from sun-dried bricks, look almost unreal. Kalta Minor– Khiva’s unfinished symbol There is probably no more recognisable landmark in Khiva than Kalta Minor. Construction began in the 19th century under Muhammad Amin Khan, who had an ambitious plan to create the tallest minaret in Central Asia. According to legend, the tower was supposed to reach a height of as much as 70–80 metres and allow people to see Bukhara, hundreds of kilometres away. History, however, had other plans. After the death of its patron, construction was abandoned, leaving the minaret at around 29 metres high. Although it was never completed, Kalta Minor nevertheless became a symbol of the city. Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah – the largest in Khiva Right next to Kalta Minor stands the monumental Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah. Built in the mid-19th century, it was the largest Islamic school in the city. It could accommodate around 260 students, which was a huge number for the time. Kuhna Ark – the former residence of the khans This was a true fortress within a fortress – the residence of the khans, the centre of power and the place where the city’s political life was concentrated. One of the most important places in Kuhna Ark was the khan’s throne room. Today, you can only see a replica of the original throne. After the Russians captured Khiva, the original was taken away and is now part of the collections of the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. Right next to Kuhna Ark stands one of Khiva’s most impressive madrasahs – the Muhammad Rahim Khan Madrasah. It was built in the 19th century on the orders of Muhammad Rahim Khan II, one of the last rulers of the Khanate of Khiva. He was an unusual ruler because, alongside politics, he was also interested in culture and the arts. The madrasah was not only a place for religious education. Students also studied mathematics, astronomy, Arabic and literature. The complex could accommodate more than 70 students, who lived in small cells arranged around the courtyard. The Mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud – a sacred place in Khiva One of the most important places in the city is the Mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud. He was a remarkable figure – a poet, philosopher and teacher, but also a legendary wrestler who was famous for his immense strength in the 14th century. According to historical accounts, he was highly respected not only for his physical abilities, but above all for his wisdom and kindness. After his death, he became the patron saint of Khiva, and his tomb became a place of pilgrimage. Islam Khoja – the highest point in Khiva The Islam Khoja Minaret is the tallest building in the city. The tower stands at around 45 metres high and looks truly impressive. After exploring Khiva, I continued through the desert landscapes of Uzbekistan towards Kungrad. Along the way, I was planning to visit one of the country’s more unusual sites: Chilpik Kala, an ancient Zoroastrian “Tower of Silence”. To be honest, I was really looking forward to seeing this place. Chilpik Kala looks like something torn straight from another era – a mysterious stone structure standing on a hill above the Amu Darya, where, according to Zoroastrian beliefs, rituals associated with the burial of the dead were once carried out. I drove practically right up to the site. From the car, it looked incredible. The problem only arose when I realised that the path to the attraction led uphill. Under normal circumstances, this wouldn’t have been a big deal. But with temperatures climbing above 40°C, a sleepless night, a headache and another 150 km of driving ahead of me, I looked through the photos of the site, glanced once more at the climb… and surrendered. For the first time, I didn’t feel guilty about it. So I left Chilpik Kala for another time. And the road to Kungrad still had a few more surprises in store…

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New Zealand, Dunedin – Scottish vibes and extreme streets

Gosia — Sun, 28 Jun 2026 15:49:14 +0000

At first glance, Dunedin looks like a very serious city. Gothic, austere architecture, grand cathedrals, and a railway station that looks more like a palace with luxurious chambers. But beneath that façade lies a vibrant city, pulsing with the energy of students from the University of Otago – New Zealand’s oldest university. You can see it in the city’s nooks and backstreets, where interesting street art and colourful murals are hidden behind the stately buildings. Although today Dunedin seems to be relatively calm, in the 19th century it was the richest and most populous city in the whole New Zealand. The Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s brought people from across the globe. During that time, the city opened its first university, a medical school, the first daily newspaper, and electric trams appeared on its streets. Dunedin is also known as New Zealand’s most Scottish city, boasting the country’s only kilt manufacturer, numerous Highland pipe bands, and lively Burns Night celebrations. One of the city’s quirkiest attractions is Baldwin Street – one of the steepest streets in the world. It’s genuinely hard to keep your balance, and the houses look as if they might topple down at any moment. Seriously, I can’t imagine walking home after a night out here. But it’s not the result of a mad architect; it’s a legacy of remote urban planning. City planners in London simply overlaid a tidy grid onto the map without considering the actual terrain, leaving several streets perched on extremely steep hills. Baldwin Street is famous for its annual charity events, including uphill runs. Another odd spectacle is the Jaffa Race, where chocolate candies are rolled down the street in a timed contest. The areas around Dunedin are packed with attractions too. On the city’s outskirts lies Tunnel Beach, which, as the name suggests, is famous for its tunnel. Carved in the 19th century, it leads straight to a stunning beach surrounded by sandstone cliffs. Additional attraction are seals lounging on the sand. Seals can also be spotted at nearby Sandfly Bay. Additionally, about 30 km from the city, on the Otago Peninsula, you’ll find albatrosses with wingspans of up to three metres. The Royal Albatross Centre offers the chance to observe these magnificent birds up close. Dunedin is a city of contrasts: from dark tunnels and extreme streets, quirky races, and lounging seals, to giant albatrosses and deep Scottish traditions. It’s the perfect place to experience the incredible diversity of New Zealand in one spot.

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Queenstown and its surroundings – adrenaline, gold and lingerie on the fence

Gosia — Sun, 21 Jun 2026 09:21:43 +0000

Queenstown is mainly known as the city of extreme sports. Ziplining, skydiving, rafting, jet boating, paragliding, or even catapults – that’s just a fraction of the thrills you can experience in the area. And for true connoisseurs, there’s bungee jumping. In 1988, AJ Hackett and Henry van Asch kick-started bungee jumping on the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge. Inspired by the ritual vine jumps performed by the people of Vanuatu, they decided to try it themselves – first in Auckland, and then (why not) from the Eiffel Tower. That’s how Kawarau became a mecca for bungee jumpers. For those scared before the jump, at least the view on the way down is guaranteed to be spectacular. A further journey along the Kawarau River can also bring additional attractions. Close to the bridge, one of the iconic scenes of The Lord of the Rings was filmed. The Argonath, or Pillars of the Kings on the Anduin River, were created in the picturesque Kawarau Gorge. The Kawarau River “played” the Anduin, and the monumental statues of Isildur and Anárion were added digitally. Luckily, you don’t need to risk your life on extreme sports to see it, a short drive to a viewpoint is enough. Back in Queenstown. although the town presents itself as the adrenaline capital, you can also… just go for a walk. For me, however, this was quite an extreme option. I felt more adrenaline dodging hundreds of tourists who seemed to have all agreed to arrive at the same time as me 😉 It’s hardly surprising, Queenstown may be small, but it’s spectacularly set on Lake Wakatipu, surrounded by mountains. The lakeside promenade and the gondola up Bob’s Peak are the busiest spots, where everyone gathers to admire the same views and test their tolerance for crowds. Fortunately, just a little further out, New Zealand suddenly becomes… more intimate. On the route between Queenstown and Wānaka, it’s worth stopping at the Cardrona Bra Fence – a fence hung with hundreds (actually thousands) of bras. It’s not too crowded, and the display creates quite a personal atmosphere. Why bras? I have no idea, and I’d rather not ask… 😉 The Queenstown area is also home to two towns that once thrived on gold rushes. First, Arrowtown, just a short drive from Queenstown, looks like it was lifted straight from the Wild West. Gold was discovered in the Arrow River in 1862, and suddenly prospectors flocked to the area. Today, Buckingham Street is lined with wooden buildings, old shops and pubs, and on the outskirts, a Chinese settlement has been reconstructed, a reminder of the miners who worked for half the wages of Europeans and were far from welcome. The second town, Cromwell, was once a gold mining hub and is now known for fruit growing. In the 1980s and 90s, the town underwent a major transformation with the construction of the Clyde Dam. When the dam was completed in 1992, the valley nearby was flooded, and the old town centre sank beneath the water. Fortunately, some historic buildings were relocated to higher ground, while those that couldn’t be moved were rebuilt. Today, in Cromwell Heritage Precinct, you can wander the 19th-century streets and admire old stables, cottages, shops, and grain warehouses. In front of the restored centre, a wharf provides departures for tours of Lake Dunstan aboard a beautifully restored 1929 wooden motor launch. Queenstown and its surroundings are a mix of spectacular nature, history, and absolutely bonkers attractions, from bungee jumping, to cinematic Lord of the Rings pillars or a fence decorated with thousands of bras. In the town itself, adrenaline and crowds dominate, but just a few kilometres out, you’ll find quaint, intimate towns with a Wild West vibe and a rich gold mining history.

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Surreal Nairobi – between safari and concrete

Gosia — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 16:23:35 +0000

It’s hard to believe that the land now occupied by Kenya’s capital was once covered in swamps. The Maasai called this place Enkare Nyrobi, meaning “cool waters.” This is where the name of the metropolis comes from. Nairobi’s development began at the end of the 19th century, when the area’s potential as a trade center was recognized. As the city grew, the Maasai, who grazed cattle here, were displaced. Today, Nairobi is called the “Silicon Savannah” due to its flourishing tech industry. It is also known as the “Green City in the Sun,” and for good reason. The city boasts numerous parks and green spaces. Nevertheless, it is a city of contrasts. Over 60% of its 4.5 million inhabitants live in poverty. Nairobi is also home to one of the largest slums in Africa—Kibera. Just a short distance beyond the borders of the Central Business District, you can witness the true realities of life in this city. Personally, the city didn’t appeal to me, but it is worth visiting for one unique attraction. Just 7 kilometers from Nairobi, you can find yourself in a completely different reality. The Nairobi National Park offers a surreal sight of wildlife against the backdrop of the urban skyline. The park was established in 1946 and is the oldest protected area in Kenya. Despite its relatively small size, the park is home to many wild animals. Over 70 species of mammals live here, including lions, leopards, zebras, monkeys, and buffalo, though elephants are absent as the park is too small for them. The park is also a popular bird-watching destination and a key habitat for the endangered black rhinoceros. Entrance to the park isn’t cheap. A standard ticket costs $60, while a discounted one for children is $20. However, the opportunity to witness wildlife against the backdrop of a large metropolis justifies the price. The roads are in good condition, and during the dry season, the park can be easily explored with a regular car without four-wheel drive. However, be aware that park rangers might claim this is impossible, trying to push you to rent a 4×4 vehicle at a cost of $150 to $200. This is false, and as long as the weather conditions are favourable, entering the park with a regular private car shouldn’t be an issue. In conclusion, Nairobi may not be an ideal tourist destination, but it’s certainly worth a visit for the unique opportunity to see wildlife set against the skyline of this vast metropolis.

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The Paeroa and Waihi area – a giant bottle, murals, gold and tunnels

Gosia — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 17:41:41 +0000

Can anything be more abstractive than starting sightseeing with a giant bottle? In New Zealand: absolutely. Especially in the town of Paeroa, home of the iconic Lemon & Paeroa drink. It has a sweet, citrusy taste and feels like something halfway between Sprite and some solid childhood chemistry experiment. The drink was created right here in 1907, using local mineral water. The L&P logo is everywhere, and the enormous brown bottle is a source of genuine local pride. From Paeroa I headed to the Karangahake Gorge – a former gold-mining hub. There are two walking tracks here, each about 2.5 kilometres long. The first, Windows Walk, winds through forest and short mining tunnels. The second, the Rail Tunnel Loop, follows the river and cuts through a one-kilometre-long former railway tunnel. That tunnel is pure gold – a urbex classic. Dark, long, cold, and seemingly endless. Right next door is Waihi – a town literally built on a gold vein. The first deposits were discovered here in 1878, but the real gold rush kicked off in 1894, when gold extraction using cyanide finally became effective. Underground mining ended in 1952, but in the 1980s the mine was reopened as an open-pit operation. That’s how Martha Mine was born – a massive hole that looks like someone dropped a giant meteorite on this patch of land. Waihi’s icon is the Cornish Pumphouse: a three-storey concrete structure from 1904 that once pumped 300 tonnes of water per hour to stop the mine turning into a swimming pool. As the mine expanded, the building found itself teetering on the edge of the abyss. There was only one way to save it: move it. The operation took place in 2006. Over three months, the building was shifted nearly 300 metres. Just behind the pumphouse is a viewpoint overlooking Martha Mine. For over 60 years, it was one of the most important gold mines in the world, producing gold and silver worth more than 50 million dollars. The mine was closed after a landslide in 2015, but the landscape is still lunar. A 4-kilometre path runs around the site, allowing you to admire this 600-metre-deep crater from every possible angle. To finish off, I visited the town of Katikati, known as The Mural Town. Since the 1990s, its walls have been steadily covered with murals telling the story of the region and its first settlers. In 1996 they even organised a festival to celebrate… the twentieth mural. Today there are many more, and walking through the town feels like strolling through an open-air art gallery. It’s also worth mentioning that nearby are the Wairere Falls – the highest waterfall on the North Island. Apparently, they’re spectacular. Sadly, I couldn’t confirm this personally, because for reasons known only to the universe, the road was closed. As consolation, I visited the small town of Tirau, where the main attractions are: a giant sheep, a giant ram and a giant dog made of corrugated iron. The dog houses the tourist information centre, the sheep has a wool shop in its belly, and the ram joined the flock in 2016. These metal animals are Tirau’s main tourist draw – and that was exactly the point of this wonderfully absurd idea.

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Ouarzazate – Morocco’s Cardboard Hollywood

Gosia — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:49:24 +0000

The Ouarzazate region has been luring filmmakers for years. This is where classics like Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and The Mummy were brought to life. Most tourists begin and end their sightseeing at the famous Atlas Studios. Sure, it’s worth a visit, but limiting yourself to that alone is like watching only the trailer of a good movie. The real adventure with Moroccan cinematography begins in the middle of nowhere. The film world has pretty much forgotten these places. Picture this: massive palaces, fortified castles, and ancient temples built solely for a few scenes, then just… abandoned. No recycling, no dismantling, no packing things into containers. These sets are left to rot and in doing so, they get a second life. These cinematic cemeteries have turned into surreal, unique exploration spots. Around Ouarzazate, you can find quite a few — and the best part? Visiting them is totally legal! Entry is free, although getting there is a bit of a puzzle. Before I went to Morocco, I had heard about these places. Problem was, I couldn’t find their locations anywhere. That’s when Google Earth, my stubbornness, and outstanding observation skills came to the rescue (of course the last one is questionable ;D ). I scrolled the map inch by inch until I spotted something weird. Because really, finding a palace in the middle of the desert is like stumbling upon a castle in the middle of nowhere. So bizarre, that you know that you must go there! And when you finally get there… The first thing you’ll probably see is a facade the size of a director’s ego. Massive, with monumental columns, it looks like the Parthenon. But step closer and the illusion vanishes faster than the Game of Thrones budget in its final season. What looks like marble from afar turns out to be cardboard, plastic, and plywood up close. Collapsed walls, fallen roofs, tilted columns, and broken decorations create a surreal vibe. The whole scene is strangely captivating and leaves a lasting impression. 😉 It’s hard to believe that this kind of cheap junk looks like an ancient empire on screen. But apparently, it turns out you can build Rome in a day… on conditon that you’re doing it in Morocco 😉

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Hobbiton – The Shire vs. the Sheep: The Story of an Annexed Farm

Gosia — Sun, 10 May 2026 16:53:07 +0000

As I drove towards Hobbiton, or rather the town of Matamata, I immediately knew I was heading in the right direction. The landscape was dotted with perfectly undulating hills, practically begging to be turned into Hobbit holes. It looked like it had been plucked straight from a film set. Yet the most captivating part of the view was the greenery. The grass was so vividly green it almost seemed unreal. At that moment, I thought it was a fair trade-off for the previous day, when a wall of rain had driven me to despair and offered no hope for the rest of the trip. Incredible how the scenery can transform in just a few hours. It’s hardly surprising that when Peter Jackson was looking for the perfect Shire back in 1998, he chose this place. Hobbiton was set on a vast farm owned by the Alexander family, which is still a fully functioning sheep farm today, with thousands of sheep roaming the fields. The original Hobbiton was a makeshift affair of polystyrene and plywood. The deal with the owners the Alexanders family was simple: once filming wrapped, the land would be returned to the sheep. However, nobody anticipated that the blockbuster would draw Shire-hunters from all over the world. Ten years later, during the filming of The Hobbit trilogy, the Shire was rebuilt. The sheep’s land was annexed, and the settlement was constructed from durable materials. Today, forty-four Hobbit holes can be seen on the site, each crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Miniature letterboxes, cheese and jars of honey on the tables, and smoke curling from the chimneys make it all feel incredibly real. The Hobbit homes are still facades, as the interiors were filmed in a Wellington studio, which I’ll cover in another post. Only two houses were built for tourists and are open to explore. Inside, a miniature version of Hobbit life awaits. Tiny furniture, little tables, a kitchen and pantry give the impression they’re inhabited. Interestingly, the houses were designed in various sizes. The smallest are typical Hobbit homes, while the larger ones were built specifically for actors. The surroundings of the homes don’t feel like a film set either—they look like a charming garden. Fruit, vegetables, and flowers are carefully tended by the on-site gardeners. Washing hangs on lines, refreshed every few months to maintain its freshness 😉 The view from Bag End—the luxurious home of Bilbo and Frodo Baggins—is exactly like in the films: the birthday party green, the pond, the inn, and all of Hobbiton at the foot of the hill. This is precisely where Bilbo and Gandalf smoked their pipes before the great disappearance. Visiting in practice Tickets for Hobbiton are best bought online in advance, with a specific tour time reserved. Even though Hobbiton is one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist attractions, it never feels overcrowded. Groups enter every 30 minutes, and guides ensure everything runs smoothly. For the best experience, choose the first tour at 8:30 a.m., when Hobbiton is just waking up. Tours last about two hours and end at the Green Dragon Inn, where your ticket includes a drink—either beer or non-alcoholic ginger beer. Hobbiton surprises at every turn. The houses and their tiny accessories are genuinely impressive, all crafted with film-set precision. But the real magic of this place isn’t just in the artificial details—it’s in the unique, idyllic landscape. Here, you don’t have to paint the grass green.

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Arthur’s Pass National Park: The Most Beautiful Route in New Zealand?

Gosia — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 15:55:09 +0000

Arthur’s Pass National Park – or more precisely, the Great Alpine Highway that runs through it, is often considered the most beautiful road in New Zealand. It’s the oldest national park on the South Island (and the third oldest in the entire country), lying across a key mountain pass that links the eastern and western coast. Yet, driving along the Great Alpine Highway is far from an ordinary experience. The road through Arthur’s Pass is a true feat of engineering. Viaducts, bridges, rock shelters and diverted waterfalls, all designed to make it possible to cross from one side of the island to the other. The pass itself rises more than 900 metres above sea level, making it the highest highway crossing in the Southern Alps. The surrounding mountains range between 1,600 and 2,000 metres, with several peaks surpassing the 2,000‑metre mark. The tallest of them, Mount Murchison, reaches 2,400 metres. The Great Alpine Highway is a real mountain adventure, with scenery that grows more spectacular at every bend. Snow‑capped peaks, glaciers and rock-strewn valleys form the typical landscape here. Along the way, there are countless lookouts, walking and hiking trails to explore. The first stop, coming from Christchurch, is Castle Hill, a fascinating area of limestone formations that featured as a filming location for The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia. Nearby lies Cave Stream, a 600‑metre‑long tunnel carved out by the river running alongside it. Sounds adventurous? In theory, yes but this time I decided to skip it due to the risk of flash floods and deep water. The place has, sadly, claimed a few lives, and should only be explored with the right gear: wetsuit, helmet and torches. I only had the torch, was travelling solo, and my swimming style could best be described as “bottom level”. So I gave it a miss. Luckily, the views all around more than made up for it. Driving on, the mountains seemed to grow taller with each kilometre, the air cooler and fresher. One of the most striking viewpoints was Arthur’s Pass Lookout, just beyond the bridge over the Waimakariri River, the view of snowy peaks was simply breathtaking. A bit further on, there are plenty of walking routes and short trails. One of the most popular is the Devil’s Punchbowl, a 131‑metre waterfall. The track is just two kilometres long, making it ideal for those more into sightseeing than breaking a sweat. Along the way, you pass through lush forest and over small bridges before reaching a viewing platform that feels like the perfect reward. Another trail worth mentioning is the climb to Avalanche Peak (1,833 metres), which I had planned to attempt. However, a local at the visitor centre convinced me otherwise. Despite the clear sky, snow and strong winds on the ridge made conditions treacherous. Instead of a panoramic view, I might have caught “the flight of my life.” Much to my disappointment, I chose once again to exercise common sense and stay at a safer altitude. Luckily, the adventures didn’t end there. Before leaving the mountains behind, I had the chance to drive across the Otira Viaduct to the aptly named Death’s Corner. The name may sound like something from a B‑movie horror, but there’s logic behind it. The Alpine Fault runs right through the park, and the old, winding road was often destroyed by landslides. In short, you once drove here at your own risk. Arthur’s Pass perfectly captures what New Zealand really is beyond the scenes – rugged, mountainous, sometimes unforgiving, and utterly indifferent to your plans. You might climb something, skip something, or change your route altogether and that’s all perfectly fine. Because even if you don’t reach the summit or stick to plan A, just being here is an incredible experience. Practical Information Arthur’s Pass National Park lies along the Great Alpine Highway (SH73), connecting Christchurch with the West Coast. The drive from Christchurch takes around 2.5–3 hours, and from Greymouth about 1–1.5 hours. Although the pass itself is only 45 kilometres long, numerous scenic stops easily stretch the journey. It’s the highest mountain pass in the Southern Alps (over 900 metres above sea level), so the weather can change suddenly. In winter, expect snow, ice and occasional chain requirements. An alternative to driving is the TranzAlpine train, considered one of the world’s most scenic railway journeys. It runs between Christchurch and Greymouth, crossing the Southern Alps and passing through Arthur’s Pass, including the impressive 8.5‑kilometre Otira Tunnel. The full journey takes about 4.5 hours each way, offering panoramic carriages and landscapes that are even more unforgettable when enjoyed from the comfort of your seat.

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Auckland – a metropolis on a volcanic minefield

Gosia — Sun, 19 Apr 2026 16:49:40 +0000

Auckland isn’t actually the capital of New Zealand, though it tries very hard to look like it is. Historically, it did hold that title between 1841 and 1865. Today, its modern business district, with towering skyscrapers and cosmopolitan cafés, still feels like the country’s command centre. The city regularly ranks high in quality-of-life surveys, because life here is simply good. Sure, it’s more expensive than other parts of New Zealand, but that clearly doesn’t put anyone off, least of all tourists. Auckland can boast a pretty unique setting. It sits on the Auckland Volcanic Field, a volcanic area made up of roughly 50–53 volcanoes. They’re all dormant now, but the field as a whole is still considered active. What could have been a drawback, the city has turned into a feature. Many of these volcanoes have been converted into parks and viewpoints. The locals have a wonderfully pragmatic approach, if you’re going to live on a volcanic minefield, at least make sure it comes with a nice view. I started my day at Mt Eden, or Maungawhau – the highest point in the city and one of the most photogenic spots in Auckland. It’s a dormant volcano, 196 metres tall, whose last eruption was around 28,000 years ago. At the top sits a massive bowl-shaped crater, about 50 metres deep. A short walk up is rewarded with panoramic views of the entire city, its ports, bays, and other volcanoes. It’s worth remembering that the crater is a sacred site for Māori, so you shouldn’t stray from the marked paths. Mt Eden’s history has another, rather unexpected twist. The stone viewing platform at the summit was built in the 19th century with the help of… an elephant. At the time, the volcano’s slopes were heavily quarried, and the basalt extracted was used to build houses, Mt Eden Prison, and the platform itself. Māori workers and prisoners laboured here but one of the workers was also an elephant called Tom. Tom came to New Zealand as a gift for Prince Alfred, Queen Victoria’s son because, back in the 19th century, if you couldn’t think of a present for an aristocrat, you just gave them an elephant (and this one wasn’t a white elephant). During the sea voyage, he carried tonnes of coal, and upon arriving in Auckland, his strength was put to work hauling heavy blocks of stone up the slopes of Mt Eden. For his efforts, he was paid in sweets and beer, because health and safety, animal welfare, and common sense were treated rather loosely back then. Tom didn’t stay in New Zealand permanently; he ended up in Europe, and his remains can now be seen at Trinity College Museum in Dublin. The platform, meanwhile, still stands and continues to offer one of the best views in the city. From Mt Eden, I headed towards Karangahape Road, known to everyone as K’ Road. It’s one of those streets that doesn’t pretend to be all metropolitan chic. It’s packed with cafés that definitely don’t shut when the bedtime story ends. K’ Road is famous for simply being alive loud, diverse, and without pretence. It’s a bit arty, a bit rebellious, but never boring. Next up was Albert Park, one of the oldest parks in Auckland, established in the 19th century. It sits on a volcanic hill right in the heart of the city, and you can still see the massive trees that remember the park’s early days. The grounds include gardens and the Auckland Art Gallery, but what you can’t see at first glance lies underground. Beneath the park is a network of World War II-era tunnels, built as air-raid shelters. They’re closed today, but knowing they exist gives a whole new perspective on the place. From there, I walked to High Street. It’s the sort of place where you can shop, grab a good coffee, have dinner, or just sit with a glass of wine. Vulcan Lane, a narrow alley between the main streets lined with cafés, is particularly charming. While in the area, it’s worth popping into Giapo – the cult ice cream shop. They serve a Kiwi classic: Hokey Pokey, vanilla ice cream studded with chunks of toffee. Just nearby is Viaduct Harbour, a waterfront district full of restaurants, bars, and cafés overlooking the marina. Auckland is often called the “City of Sails”, with over 135,000 registered yachts and boats, and the Waitematā Harbour and Hauraki Gulf sometimes look like a giant parking lot for people who don’t entirely trust life on land. From almost anywhere in the city, you can spot Auckland’s icon – the Sky Tower. At 328 metres, it dominates the skyline and is the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere. If you prefer something a bit quieter, head to Parnell, Auckland’s oldest and one of its most stylish suburbs. Charming architecture and plenty of restaurants and cafés make it a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. Auckland was the last place I visited in New Zealand. And I’m glad I saved it for last — it perfectly summed up the country’s diversity. Ending a trip in a place like this is a bit like closing an adventure book, knowing full well you’ll want to open it again sometime.

Artykuł Auckland – a metropolis on a volcanic minefield pochodzi z serwisu .