Ljubljana – a slightly psychedelic city of dragons

Ljubljana is one of those cities that’s impossible not to like. Time seems to move slower here, and instead of the traffic jams and rush typical of other European capitals, the city charms with its intimate, relaxed atmosphere.

The city’s most iconic landmark is the Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most). It was built to replace an old wooden bridge that collapsed during an earthquake in 1895. Initially, the plan was to decorate it with winged lions, but in the end, four dragons took the stage. Local legend has it that if a virgin crosses the bridge, the dragons will wag their tails. In practice? Well, let’s be honest – traffic on the bridge is pretty heavy, and the dragons remain stubbornly still.

Beyond the Dragon Bridge, three other bridges are worth checking out. One of the oldest is the Shoemakers’ Bridge. Like the Dragon Bridge, it used to be wooden. Back then, it was lined with butcher shops, but the stench proved unbearable, so the authorities ordered them to relocate. Shoemaking workshops moved in instead.

Speaking of butchers, Ljubljana also has the Butchers’ Bridge (Mesarski most). Built in 2010, it’s the youngest of the city’s bridges. Today, instead of meat, it’s covered in love locks and quirky sculptures.

The most charming of them all is the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje), located at Prešeren Square, the heart of the city. From here, you get a lovely view of the Ljubljanica River and the Franciscan Church.

The Triple Bridge is right next to Cankarjevo Nabrežje, the famous riverside promenade full of cafés, eateries, and live music.

In the medieval centre, there’s a street that literally stares at you from beneath your feet: Ključavničarska Street, the Locksmiths’ Street. Its cobbles are adorned with hundreds of strange bronze faces.

The faces create a surreal scene that stretches all the way to Mestni trg, the city’s oldest square, home to the Town Hall and Robba Fountain.

On the other side of the river lies the elegant Congress Square, surrounded by historic buildings including the Slovenian Philharmonic and the University of Ljubljana.

The best view of the city spreads from Castle Hill. Ljubljana Castle, or Ljubljanski Grad, towers over the city from 375 metres above. You can walk up in about 10–15 minutes for a free cardio session, or take the funicular that starts near the Central Market. The ride itself is an attraction. Once up there, you can explore the castle courtyard and the Chapel of St. George for free. The watchtower offers a fantastic panoramic view over the city.

For a different vibe, head to the Metelkova district. Built on the site of former Austro-Hungarian barracks from 1911, today it’s a riot of colourful murals and psychedelic sculptures, where the parties can go on until the early hours – you can imagine the vibe 😉.

The Slovenian government has tried several times to shut Metelkova down, but each attempt was met with resistance from local activists. Today, tourists come armed with cameras, artists with spray paint, and locals keep protesting – Metelkova still walks a fine line between legality and rebellion.

In the modern part of the city stands another bizarre monument: the Cyanometer. Created by an artist Martin Bricelj Baraga, it measures the blueness of the sky. Over three metres tall, this column compares the sky above to a full colour palette and uses that to assess air quality. The principle is simple: the more “photoshopped” the blue, the cleaner the air. Faded colours indicate moisture and airborne particles. A local measuring station supplies data, which the Cyanometer displays on its surface along with the temperature. You can even track it online – because if it’s not on the internet, did it even happen? The installation appeared in 2016, coinciding with Ljubljana being named the European Green Capital. 

To round off your visit, head to the city’s largest park, Tivoli, where a distinctive castle now houses the Centre of Graphic Arts.

Ljubljana may be small, but it’s full of character. Dragons, quirky sculptures, historic bridges, and the alternative world of Metelkova ensure you’ll never be bored, yet there are plenty of spots to relax away from the hustle and bustle typical of capital cities.