Southern Albania – a ship in a field and a thousand windows

I start my exploration of southern Albania in quite an unusual way – with a ship docked far from the sea, right in the middle of fields. This extraordinary sight resembles the Titanic in the Atlantic and is an evidence of the boundless Albanian imagination.

Berat – “The City of Thousand Windows”

In Berat, I stop for a moment to explore the castle ruins. Although little remains of the castle itself, its walls and the surrounding landscape create an incredible atmosphere.

However, this is not the end of the attractions in this town. Berat is called “The City of a Thousand Windows,” and the name seems to fit it perfectly. The distinctive white houses with sloping roofs and large windows look incredibly photogenic.

Osumi Canyon

Continuing my journey along a picturesque mountain road, I reach Osumi Canyon. The canyon makes an incredible impression from the very beginning. Driving along the Osumi River is a true pleasure. Thanks to the river and the erosion it has caused, you can admire high rock walls reaching up to 100 meters. With 26 kilometers of length, there is no shortage of places to explore. The route is dotted with numerous viewpoints from which you can marvel at this amazing place. A popular attraction here is rafting, which is mainly organized in the spring when the water level is sufficient.

Gjirokastёr: The City of a Thousand Stairs

In Gjirokastёr, my main goal was to visit a Cold War bunker, as I mentioned earlier. However, the city has much more to offer. Gjirokastёr is known as “The City of a Thousand Stairs”. Additionally, Enver Hoxha, the leader of communist Albania from 1944 to 1985, was born here. While this fact may not be the best advertisement for the city, it holds a significant historical context. I’ve written more about Hoxha’s dictatorship and Albanian bunkers in another post. My first steps took me high up to the medieval fortress. Built in the 12th century and later expanded by the Ottomans, the fortress housed a prison for political prisoners during the Cold War era. From the fortress walls and the clock tower, there’s an incredible view of Gjirokastёr’s old town and the surrounding peaks.

Inside the fortress, there’s also the wreckage of an American Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star, which made an emergency landing in Albania in 1957. The story of this mission still sparks controversy – whether it was an accidental flight or a reconnaissance mission. According to the American version, the pilot was flying from the military base at Châteauroux in France to Naples, Italy. Along the way, he got lost in dense fog and deviated from his course. Due to fuel shortage, he made an emergency landing in Albania. However, according to Albanian reports, the pilot was on a reconnaissance flight and was intercepted by Albanian People’s Army pilots, forcing him to land. Which version is true? You decide – this is an objective blog, after all! 😄

Returning to Gjirokastёr, this city is worth visiting not only for its charming old town. While Berat is known as the “City of a Thousand Windows,” Gjirokastёr is dubbed the “City of a Thousand Steps.” The Old Town indeed resembles a labyrinth of narrow and steep streets. For me, Gjirokastёr is particularly memorable for its distinctive architecture featuring white houses with grey roofs.

Blue Eye and the Southern Coast

On hot days, it’s best to visit the Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye). This spring is named for its resemblance to an eye’s iris. Although swimming is allowed here, few people opt for it due to the water temperature being a chilly 10°C (50°F). Blue Eye is nestled in the mountains, accessible via a short concrete path. Along the way, you can enjoy beautiful views of the mountains and a dam.

Warmer waters, on the other hand, are plentiful along the coast. The southern part of Albania is renowned for excellent conditions for sunbathing and water sports. Unfortunately, during the peak season, the beaches are packed to the brim. Among the most popular are Lori, Paradise, and Ksamil beaches.

The southern coast of Albania also offers many historical sites and viewpoints. Below is a picture of Sarandë with the Lëkurësi Castle in the background.

The scenic mountainous route through Llogara Pass provides an incredible experience. Route SH8 stretches along the coast at over 1000 meters above sea level, connecting the Dukat Valley with the town of Himarë in the south. Traveling this 45-kilometer stretch offers breathtaking views and an unforgettable journey.

On one side of the route, you can admire the Ceraunian Mountains, while on the other, spectacular views of the Ionian Sea unfold. On clear days, you can even see the Greek island of Corfu from here. The road through Llogara Pass is renowned as one of the most beautiful in Europe. Along the way, there are numerous viewpoints and hiking trails.

Zvërnec: A Tranquil End to the Journey

The final stop of the trip is Zvërnec. It is famous for its picturesque bunkers and the Monastery of St. Mary, located near the Narta Lagoon. The monastery is actually situated on a small island accessible via a wooden bridge. Built in the 13th century, its full name is the Monastery of the Dormition of Theotokos Mary. It’s a peaceful place, perfect for concluding a journey full of experiences in southern Albania.